92 Accord 2.2 No spark

check, ?
ok all relays
the relay is just a coil (mag) and a switch.
many relays have just 4 pins.
most main relays have 2 pins at 12v. one on the coil and one on the common contactor pin (input)
the ECU/PCM grounds the other coil pin, the mag field inside builds and the contactor closes. and the contactor ouput pin
goes to 12v and the ECU then powers up.

HOW?
how to check it, is easy, use a voltmeter, (never lies , like other ways)
any DMM , even that cheap one at walfart works great.
set the dial to 20vdc.
conn, black lead to car body, metal.
conn red lead to the 4 pins, 1 at at time and key on. (no start)
if the 2 pins do not have 12v(input pins) the fuse is blown or some dork cut the wires to install some , accessory.
now see the ECU ground the othe coil pin, 0volts,
the relay is now energized, (coil must not read infinity removed)
now check the output pin on said relay, if 0v , the relay is bad.
if 12v, on this pin, well , the relay is 100% OK.

to work on cars, you must learn electrics first, then how relays work. there are millions of web pages on this subject,

ok , i went to alldata.com (so can you)
and that car has 7 pin, MAIN relay.
black yell and blue black pins are 12v keyon.
yellow wire is fuel pump (early cars have 2 relays in one)
black is ground, if open , all is dead ! must be 0v
fuel pump enable line is green-black (ecu commanded)
0v when active, most cars take cranking to go active.
the blue-red wire from crank fuse. sends 12v to pump relay coil
for crank pump action.
and last but not least is the yell-black wire, this wire runs the ECU
and all injectors. this is 12v key on. if not check all coil pins on main.
i answered in the generic and exact.

old post. but lots of old handa's still ,

all this is on alldata.com or at mitchels.

the coil itself can be bad. is the check engine light on?

Are you sure that there is no spark, have you checked with a timing light? Are the wires on the coil connected correctly? Is the ignition module plugged in correctly and are all the wires on the distributor tight and correctly located? Try another ignition module from a system that is known to be working.

was there oil in the dist cap if so replace distriptor and try again

I would check the crank sensor located on the bell housing. This senses that the engine is turning and allows a spark to be produced. No sensor no spark.

Help,
I have a 92 F-150 XLT with a 5.0. The ignition switch block burned up so I replaced it. Now it will not get spark when I crank it over, but when I crank it and let off of the key, I get one spark jump from the coil; to the distributer. (I have a spark tester I placed on the cap to the wire) I have replaced the coil and the ignition module that is on the fender attached to the brain, I have replaced the ignition cylinder and key (It was acting up) and I took the dash apart to see the wire harness to ensure there was no burnt wires. (The wire connection to the ignition block is not damaged from when the switch burned.
Does anyone know if there is a part that tends to go bad when the ignition block burns up??
Help, Thanks, Todd

Crankshaft position sensor will need to be replaced.

Trade #2 & #3 plug wires. If you loose fire on #2, you have a bad wire if not, replace cap & rotor. The TCU is transmission controller. The ECU is not going to cause a single cylinder mis-fire.

look at oxygen sensor.look at egr control solenoid.

It likely has a bad igniter in the distributor. It is the same as an ignition module, but Honda calls it an igniter.