Clutch pedal has no resistance like it's not even working. is it the clutch itself or the pedal.

A harder clutch pedal in your Toyota Fortuner 3.0L D4D 2007 could be indicative of several potential issues. It's important to have a qualified mechanic inspect and diagnose the specific cause, but I can suggest some common reasons for a harder clutch pedal:

• Clutch Wear:
• The clutch may be nearing the end of its life and may require replacement. Over time, the clutch disc and pressure plate can wear, leading to a harder pedal feel.
• Clutch Hydraulic System Issues:
• The hydraulic system, including the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic lines, could be leaking, damaged, or experiencing air bubbles, resulting in a harder pedal feel. Inspect for any leaks or damage in these components.
• Clutch Cable Issues (if applicable):
• If your Fortuner uses a mechanical clutch linkage with a cable, the cable could be stretched, frayed, or damaged, causing increased resistance in the pedal.
• Clutch Release Bearing:
• The clutch release bearing may be failing or worn out, causing increased resistance when engaging and disengaging the clutch.
• Clutch Fork or Pivot Issues:
• The clutch fork or its pivot may be damaged or experiencing increased friction, making the pedal feel harder.
• Pressure Plate Issues:
• The pressure plate, which engages and disengages the clutch, might have issues like wear, warping, or damage, affecting the pedal feel.
• Flywheel Problems:
• The flywheel could be worn, damaged, or have hot spots, affecting the clutch engagement and the pedal feel.
• Improperly Lubricated Components:
• Lack of lubrication in the clutch linkage or pedal assembly can cause increased friction and result in a harder pedal.

Conclusion.
It's essential to address any clutch-related issues promptly to prevent further damage and ensure the safety and performance of your vehicle. It's recommended to have a professional mechanic inspect and diagnose the specific cause of the harder clutch pedal in your Toyota Fortuner.

Hi, it looks like your master cylinder is not working but it could also be the smaller clutch slave cylinder that has a leak . When you don't have any pressure it usually points to air getting into the clutch hydraulic pipes and it could be the seals in the slave cylinder that need renewing. The system would have to be bled when the repair has been done. Air in the system causes a spongy feeling and not much resistance when pressing the pedal hence you can't get the clutch to work to put the car into gear.

Check the clutch fluid level. It will be a small reservoir close to the brake master cylinder. If the clutch reservoir is empty, add fluid.( brake fluid ) You may have to perform a bleed procedure at the clutch slave cylinder attached to the transmission Pump the clutch pedal several times and have someone open the bleeder screw until fluid comes out and the clutch pedal has its resistance back

`Did it bleed, did fluid come out in a steady stream? Isn't there a spring to bring the pedal off the floor?
Check the linkage of the pedal to rod to the clutch master cylinder, make sure that is all together. Any chance the master has an internal leak and won't build hydraulic pressure down at the slave? If you get it bled, then watch the slave operation while someone works the clutch pedal. The piston on the slave should extend and push the clutch fork enough to disengage the clutch.

Check the fluid reservoir. If it's low on fluid, fill the reservoir and pump the clutch pedal until you feel resistance from the clutch. If the reservoir is full, and the clutch isn't disengaging, you likely have a bad release bearing or broken linkage. If it is a bearing problem you're most likely into a clutch replacement.

replace the clutch master. clutch master is a set of springs and rubbers located inside your hydrovac that is responsible for pushing your clutch fluids

check hydraulics for leaks by looking at the slave cylinder on the gearbox activating the clutch fork,pull the rubber boot back (no fluid o.k)look at the clutch pedal under the dash and peel that rubber boot back(no fluid o.k)bleed it to be sure by pumping the clutch pedal,holding it down and getting someone to crack the bleeder on the slave cylinder on the gearbox,HOLD the pedal down and tighten the bleeder first before releasing the clutch pedal,otherwise air will be sucked in if you pull the pedal back first.If that doesnt work you probably need a clutch but this is more likley and check the line running from the master to the slave for leaks and tightness

either it is a clutch fluid line busted (most likely)or its you clutch master you can start it anyway give a little gas in 1st and start it shut it off b4 starting i drove my volvo 740 home like that once nerve wrecking but save towing money

you need to bleed the clutch system.. have someone pump the clutch pedal three or four times, hold it down and release the bleeder valve( make sure the person holds the pedal down till after you tighten the bleeder valve back down) repeat this four or five times or till the clutch pedal feels like it did before.. good luck keith...

It's a hydraulic system on the Audi. Using a master cylinder (nearer pedal and firewall) and a slave cylinder (at clutch release bearing itself, or on side of tranny. Owner's manual should give location for a reservoir to check. Similar but smaller than brake master cylinder reservoir if that helps. The system uses brake fluid, and you either have a leak, a lack, or a loss of this fluid, and/or pressure to the clutch. Sounds like you need qualified service, these systems need REAL diagnosis before you start buying parts. ALso can be hard to bleed completely free of air after parts are installed.