I need rear axle breakdown diagram. Have noise from joint on pass side rear. Is it a cv or u joint? Thanks.

yes actually 95 to 05 1995-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier CV Axle Assembly, Chevrolet Cavalier Drive Axles, API CV Axle Assembly, API Drive Axles SKU: API 1700197008, API 3158-07726494 CV Axle Assembly -- Pass. Side Axle Has Stub Shaft Inserted Into The Splines Of The Inboard Joint; If stub shaft stays on axle upon removal you must transfer to the replacement unit. Driveshaft & Axle Automatic, Automatic 4 Spd 95-05 Chevrolet CV Axle Assembly. Replacement Chevy CV Axle Assembly Parts. 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05

OK so it's your CV axle most likely during slow revolutions it clacks and makes noises so replace both sides to ensure transmission/engine performance stays optimal to power applied to the road. The other cause of noises in that area are due to the wheel bearings needing replaced usually and sometimes repacking the bearings instead. On your car if the axle passes through the wheel it has to ride on something to control balance and torque across the drive shaft. I would replace both front driver and passenger side wheel bearings and the CV axles on both sides please be smart people and replace parts like these in pairs/ together the reason being after you replace one side you drive a few months or less and the other side goes out almost always soon after the other I would say over 75% of the time let it be bearings/u-joints/CV axles or other crucial parts. Hope this helps please take my word and fix it right the first time and please buy the better parts not the cheapest parts out there if you want quality/ safety than buy the better or best parts never just the good or OK parts

You asked about the rear cv joint. Why do you think it's broken ?
if it's broken it will make a noise when trying to pull away, making a clicking noise when turning is front cv joints.
wth the car in park, jack one side up and try to turn the wheel by hand .... If you can and it makes a noise or it spins free it's broken. If you can't turn it try the other side. If you can't turn the other side either you don't have a broken rear cv. Damaged is a different thing.

Probably a bad CV joint on one of your drive axles to the front wheels. You have two drive axles coming out of the transaxle, one to each front wheel, and both have an inner CV joint where they enter the transaxle, and an outer CV joint where the axles fit into the wheel hub. (A CV joint is really like the old U-joints, serving the same purpose.) A clicking noise on turning is usually a badly worn outer CV joint. The cheapest fix is to buy a remanufactured half-shaft for your car. That is the axle shaft with both CV joints at each end inspected and reconditioned with new grease and CV boots installed. You need to know which side is bad before buying. The half-shaft is sold ready to install. Someone with good mechanical skills will need to remove the old one and replace it with the new reconditioned axle shaft, or half shaft as they are also called. The last time I bought one (about two years ago) the cost was reasonable- about $65.00. That is less than the cost of one new CV joint.
Hope this helps you out.

If you still think the noise is coming from the left side CV joint it would be more advisable to replace the entire axle as an assembly. For the time and effort it takes, you can usually get a rebuilt axle assembly for only a few dollars more than the CV joint and the boot required to repair one. You will need a large axle nut socket (usually 30 - 32mm) to remove the axle nut. The lower ball joint and tie rod will need to be separated along with the brake caliper and rotor, from the spindle. I would recheck the grinding noise before doing it. A lot of wheel bearings are mistakenly diagnosed to the wrong side. If the noise is loudest when turning left, most people would assume the left side wheel bearing is at fault. However if the noise is loudest turning left it indicates the right side wheel bearing is most likely at fault. Due to the weight distribution of the front end, turning left the weight all transfers to the right side, loading that bearing. Make sure thats not the case before tackling an axle.

If it makes a clunk-clunk-clunk sound while turning, it's your front CV joint that's bad. Check to see if the front CV rubber boot is ripped/torn, on either side of the car. The CV boots are located inside/behind the wheels, where the drive axle hooks up to the wheel. If damaged, you will probably have to replace the entire CV axle.

Either a bad u-joint or you need to replace the Axle shaft! just had the same problem in my 1500 4x4 they dont have CV joints..

Dana or Ford axle?

Ford here:
SECTION 205-05: Rear Drive Halfshafts 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Halfshaft
Special Tool(s) Protector, Differential Seal
205-506 Remover, Front Wheel Hub
205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent Remover, Halfshaft
205-502
Removal and Installation
NOTE: This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.

1. CAUTION: Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.
   With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating.
   Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
   Remove the brake disc.
   1. Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.
      • Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.
   1. Remove the brake disc.

1. Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.

1. CAUTION: Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.

1. WARNING: The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
   Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.

1. CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.
   CAUTION: Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm.
   Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
   1. Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.
   1. Remove the special tool.
   1. Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.
   1. Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing.
   CAUTION: Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal.
   NOTE: A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle.
   Using the special tool, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle.
   Install the special tool.

1. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the Differential Seal Protector before positioning the inboard CV joint housing in the axle.
   CAUTION: Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   CAUTION: Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   To install, reverse the removal procedure.

CV Joint Axle Replacement - How to Repair or Replace

Over time the rubber boots of the CV joints can become cracked, torn, or otherwise compromised. Once moisture and dirt get into a CV joint and grease makes its way out, the CV joints days are numbered. Signs of impending failures are a click-click-clicking or metallic crackling noise while turning and accelerating or a clunking upon deceleration. While one can repack, reboot, and rebuild CV axles, it makes more sense for the average do-it-yourselfer to procure replacement units and swap out the old axles. If a boot is torn or missing, it is possible to save the joint if caught early enough, but usually the damage has already been done. Replacing or servicing the entire CV joint axle assembly may be the smarter move since replacing a boot may involve removing an axle, which may also involve removing half or all of the vehicle's brakes and suspension.

on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).