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Frank Briffa Posted on Dec 27, 2016
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Hi , my 30 hp motor has charge and fuel but won'y kick over with ignition on or by pulling cord start , seems like it is locked in , but it's not in gear ... any thoughts ?Thank you

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Bill Boyd

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 53,816 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2016
Bill Boyd
Cars & Trucks Master
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Joined: Jan 04, 2013
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Remove the spark plug and see if you can turn it over
if not check the oil level in the sump as the motor could be seized
if over head valve
remove rocker cover and check for valve movement

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0helpful
1answer

Engine cranks but won,t start

Every 4 cycle gasoline auto engine needs three things: air, fuel and a source of ignition. If it cranks then the starter motor circuit and motor look to be OK. To check for ignition pull a plug wire and short it to the block with a phillips-head screw driver in the plug socket (leave a little air gap between the screwdriver and the point on the block. Be careful the output voltage from the coils can run as high as 40,000 volts and give you quite a jolt if you're not careful. If you get a regular spark from the screwdriver to the point on the block, it is likely that your ignition system is OK. If not then start trouble shooting there.
If ignition checks out OK then look for fuel starvation. Since it is a fuel injected motor there can be several places in the fuel delivery system to be checked. The first thing I'd do it crank it (no more than 30 seconds at a time unless you like replacing starter motors!) After three or four cycles of this with a non-start, pull a spark plug and insepct it by nose and fingers. If the plug smells strongly of gasoline and appears to be wet then fuel delivery is likely OK, check ignition.
I am not going into too much detail on checking the fuel system as that requires knowledge that I think an experienced mechanic needs to apply to the problem. Good luck! P.S. (Hint)The public libraries usually have "How-to" books on most automotive models in their collections.
0helpful
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Wont kick over

  1. Hi Mike, maybe something got stirred up and lodged in the fuel filter? Maybe the fuel pump finally went? Can you hear the relay click and/or the fuel pump run when you turn on the ignition? Maybe some critter gnawed it's way through a wire or two; they really seem to like our Loyales. I just had one do this because the battery connection was good enough, but then slipped away.
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I changed the oil in my 98 concorde and now it wont start. The oil light is on but not the check engine light.\

do you here the fuel pump working when you turn the key?If not could be a fuse that runs the fuel pump.
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Cranks and then goes dead

First check your fuel pressure it should be 41-47 psi with key on and engine off if its below 32 psi replace the fuel pump and filter.If fuel pump checks out to be good then take ignition switch out and check for burned ignition switch wires and worn ignition key tumblers and ignition lock cylinder.These cars are known for faulty ignition switches and ignition lock cylinders.Ignition switch gets to hot then it won't start until it cools off.
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Fuses panel described in English

Hope this helps your out. I know the diagram and locator is a bit blurry but hopefully it gets what you need.
Drivers kick panel:
Front wiper 20A - Front wiper system Cigar 15A- Cigarette lighter Audio 10A- Audio, remote control mirror Air Bag 10A -Air bag diagnostics Stop lights- 15A -Rear brake light, high mounted stop light ECU B+ 10A - Shift lock actuator, transaxle controle module, radio, engine control module Room 10A - Interior light, clock, ignition key reminder, rear cargo area light switch ABS 10A- Anti lock brake system control unit ECU IG1 10A - Transaxle control module, shift lock actuator, ABS control unit, DRL unit Meter 10A - Instrument panel, back-up switch, electronics time control module, inhibit switch Turn signal 10A- Hazard switch ,front and rear turn lights, turn indicator IGN1 20A - Ignition switch ABS 30A- ABS pump motor TNS 30A- Tail light, license plate light COOL/FAN 30A- Cooling fan Cond/Fan 20A- A/C condenser fan Starter 15A- Start signal , Fuel pump Blower 25A- Blower Motor SR/ACC 10A - Ignition switch Hazard 15A - Hazard and turn signal light D/Lock 25A- Door locks ABS 30A - Anti lock brake system control P/W RH 20A- Power window motor right hand P/W LH 20A- Power window motor left hand IGN2 25A- Ignition Switch
Engine compartment :
Head 25A- headlights IG 2 30A- Ignition switch IG coil 15A -Ignition coil, condenser,generator IC regulator, diagnostic connector. O2 down 10A- Rear O2 sensor O2 up 10A- Front O2 sensor Fuel pump 10A -Fuel pump unit Injector 10A -Fuel injector ,camshaft positioning sensor, purge solenoid valve, EVAP, IAC actuator, Mass Airflow sensor, EGR stepper motor. fuel pump relay coil, vehicle speed sensor. A/Con 10A - A/C compressor controls, cooling fan BTN 30A- Brake light , high mounted stop light. Tail light LH 10A- License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Tail light RH 10A-License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Head low 15A- Headlight Head Hi 15A-Headlight Horn 15A- Horn jlmacman.png jlmacman_0.png

Inside kick panel jlmacman_1.png
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I have a 1984 Toyota Corolla, 4dr Sedan, 1.6L, The Problem its having is that when I start up the Car, it kicks over and runs, and if its in the morning, it will stay running for about 3-6 min, then after...

Check the fuel delivery system and as well as the ignition system (Ignition coil, spark plugs gaps, high tension cords resistance and the igniter amplifier assembly).
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97 chevy 1/2 ton 5.7 vortec truck won't start

remove the shroud around the steering lock ,then with a meter locate the feed ,then the 12v when ignition turned on then with a suitable paperclip or piece of wire turn the igniition on and then from the 12v supply apply a supply the other connection for the starter motor and try that ,if it starts ok then renew the ignition switch ,if it doesnt start its the electronics
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2001 Chevy Malibu Battery Connectors

all cables should be tight and corrosion free. this also includers the ground cabble fron engine block to the frame and the grouind cable from the starter to the battery. if all cables are tight then it could be that the solenoid on the starter is bad and needs to be either replaced or the starter itself
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Renault espace starting problems

I have a 2000 Espace and for years it has suffered from a non-start problem. It can be fine for ages and then, suddenly, there's nothing when you turn the ignition, not even a click. All instruments light up. It's not the battery. Does this sound familiar?

In my case, time and time again it has been what they call the 'firewire' connection on to the starter - the connection becomes corroded over time and fails to pass sufficient voltage.

If the terminal becomes too badly burned, where the voltage has arced because of a poor connection, apparently the only solution is to fit a new starter motor. But so far, in my case, it's just needed a clean of the connector and terminal.

By the way, holding the ignition key in the ON position for some time (30 seconds or more) can sometimes cause it to fire up.
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