I need to remove the engine from a slant 6 s series valiant manual

will a 318 block motor bolt up to a slant 6 bell housing for a ...

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Jan 6, 2008 - I bought a 72 Dodge Scamp for my hubby and the slant 6 that is in is no good so we want to put in a 318 but we have no idea what trouble it will ...

slant six to 318...??? [Archive] - Moparchat

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Nov 5, 2009 - 14 posts - ‎6 authors
You can swap in a 318 but you will need a transmission too. ... it will... That should be the A230 trans, this was made for V8s as well as sixes. ... The A903 will be marginal, even though with a bellhousing change it will bolt up. will it bolt up??? [Archive] - Moparchat - Home of ...
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May 6, 2009
3 speed manual tranny [Archive] - Moparchat - Home ...
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best/easiest engine swap [Archive] - Steel Soldiers::Military ...

1 Remove battery earth cable.
2 Remove gear shift lever - usually just pulls out.
3 Remove starter motor.
4 Remove bolts holding prop shaft to gearbox final drive, and remove the prop shaft.
5 Remove all bolts around bell housing holding bell housing to engine.
6 Slide gearbox back to slide spigot shaft from clutch plate.
7 Slide gearbox from under vehicle.
Gearbox is now removed out.

When you have front end problems like that it helps to underinflate the tires a little, so instead of the 32-35psi, try 28.

Note this is not a fix, just a band-aide to get you by untill you fix the problem.

These old Chryslers are great cars, but they do have front end issues. The front steering/suspension is pretty precise and way ahead of its time. When the parts wear out, watch out.

Inspect steering box, the play can be adjusted. Check tire rod ends, wheel bearings, control arm bushing, ball joints, pitman & idler arm.

Then have the alignment checked. Be sure your front tires match each other in size, brand, & tread. Be sure to run radials, bias-plys are known for their drifting.

The steering box play adjustment can be found at the following forum:

Slant Six Forum

this may be a problem with the 5th gear and reverse selector fork or bearings on the out put shaft and main shaft out put bearing.. AS this section is normally outside the gear box proper check if the rear extension housing can be unbolted and removed with out pulling the gear box. Remove the tail shaft and rear engine mount member and if there are a series of bolts around the housing it should come off revealing the selector fork and gears . Drain the gear box first.

place the car on a hoist .--- remove the tail shaft.-- support the rear of the engine .--- remove the inspection plate under bell housing--remove battery positive lead-- place a jack or other mobile support under the transmission-- undo the rear engine mount cross member.--- disconnect all wires and connections--If manual remove the gear lever and turret from inside the car or disconnect linkages to the box------ if auto remove the bolts holding the converter to the flex plate and push the converter back towards the gear box. use a piece of thin wire to hole it there by tying a bolt hole back to the bell housing inspection bolt hole. IF manual and auto ---remove the bell housing bolts and pull gear box straight back . watch for transmission oil coming out of the rear of the transmission. Installation is reverse process.

for the full steps then get a workshop manual as there are some details that will be missed . Basically it is Remove the battery terminal. remove the rear drive shaft ( front also if 4wd). Remove the gear lever at the tower bolts on the gear box. Drain the gear box or be prepaired for the gear oil to run out the end of the transmission when you pull the box. . Place a bottle jack under the sump at the rear of the engine . Place a trolley jack under the gear box. undo the rear transmission mount cross member Undo all the bell housing bolts. lower the jack and the trolley jack and pull the gear box back. Undo the bolts holding the pressure plate on the flywheel a bit each at a time as you go around the plate . Remove the plate and the clutch plate ( be aware that the clutch plate will only go back in one way so watch the way the clutch hub was facing. Remove and replace the bearing in the back of the crank shaft. clean up the flywheel face ( good idea for a good non shudder job is to have the flywheel re-machined ) fit the clutch plate the right way and fit the pressure plate . Use a clutch aligner tool as it will be impossible to fit the gear box with out it. Replace the clutch throw out bearing. Now re install using the reverse processes As I said a manual shows it all

The great Dodge slant 6 engine...these were very strong and dependable, i put 300,000 on a 1985 D100 and it was still going strong when i sold it. Your transmission is a "883"
Chrysler began using "833" four speeds in passenger cars in 1964. The transmission was designed by Chrysler and manufactured by New Process Gear Co. Chrysler installed the 833 four speed behind the Slant Six at two different times. The first production four speed slant sixes were the 1964-66 A-body four speed cars. The second run of production four speed slant sixes began in 1975 with the release of the Overdrive A-833. From 1975 until 1987 the Overdrive four speed was installed in slant six applications of A-bodies, F-bodies, and light trucks (D100 & D200 series trucks). These applications were not ultra rare, but the slant six four speed production figures pale in comparison to the number of V8 cars that received A-833 four speeds. Since the A-833s installed behind slant sixes were basically the same transmissions installed in the V8 cars, a slant six owner looking to install an A-833 should be familiar with all the A-833s produced, including the ones used behind V8s...There are several characteristics of the various A-833s that determine which four speeds fit in which chassis and with which engines. For the passenger cars, Chrysler manufactured two different length four speeds. The A/F-bodies received a short tailshaft A-833 and the B/C/E-bodies received a long tailshaft A-833. This difference is obvious when one of each type is sitting side by side, but either type is easily identified when it happens to be a stand alone unit.

If you are looking to replace your truck tranny, you will need to find another one out of a truck that had the slant 6 engine for it to be a direct bolt up. Chrysler made several variations.

1975 thru 1987 Overdrive 3.09:1 - 1.67:1 - 1:1 - 0.73:1 (Trucks used a 0.71:1 fourth)

Good luck, hope this helps.

hi their should be 10 bolts holding the head on and the tool you need is an inverted torque socket these are needed to undo the head bolts using an allen key would just thread the head and would mean drilling the head bolts out which is a night mare, so dont use allen keys as they will not be strong enough to undo the head bolts without threading the head bolts.
as for the gearbox as long as you have undone the 2 at the top and the ones either side and the bottom bolt you should then be able to remove the gear box from the engine, the problem with your car is the gear box has not got much room to come away from the engine far enough to allow you to get it out, you may need to undo the engine mountin bolts to allow you to have a bit extra room you may also need an engine hoist to support the engine whilst removing the box, you may get away without one but it will be difficult.

make sure you have removed the drive shafts from the gear box and also the starter motor and make sure the speedo drive is undone and also the electrics for the reverse light if this is located at the top of the gear box.

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 5.9L diesel engine is located (1) below the fuel injection pump. It is bolted to the back of the timing gear housing (7).

1. Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor.
2. Remove sensor mounting bolt (6).
3. Carefully twist sensor from timing gear housing.
4. Check condition of sensor O-ring.

INSTALLATION

1. Clean out machined hole in back of timing gear housing (cover).
2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor O-ring.
3. Install sensor into timing gear housing (cover) with a slight rocking action. Do not twist sensor into position as damage to O-ring may result. CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely flush to back of timing gear housing (cover). If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor mounting tang may result.
4. Install mounting bolt and tighten. Refer to Torque Specifications.
5. Connect electrical connector to sensor.

2Ways 1 take the Engine out and fit the new clutch if you have a block and tackel or crane to lift it.
2nd Jack up truck as high as possible and fit stands under,, Rmove gear levers/tail shafts/ transfer box and all other parts before removeing X member on box/ and put jack under engine/before removing all bell housing bolts and starter motor..remove box assy.. fit new clutch, refit box etc in reverse of removal.. But engine out is the BEST WAY