I have a 2000 ford expedition XLT triton v8. And it won't go into reverse but it goes into all the other gears fine but if I keep moving shift to D to R and sometimes it grabs but jerks and no R

SOURCE: 2000 ford expedition xlt 4x4 with 5.4

I say replace the cable, it is very common on any car, not just these ones.

SOURCE: is it hard to change the spark plugs in my 2000

5.4 triton, spark plugs are under valve cover have to disconnect harnesses and make room to remove cover pull bolts from cover, unbolt coil from each plug change plug reinstall coil, then change valve cover seal and rebolt down, reconnect harneses and then u realize u have other side to do still... yes one of hardest plugs to change in any vehicle

SOURCE: My 2000 Ford Expedition XLT will not go into P,R,N,D,2 and 1..

You know,i had kind of the same problem with my 2000 f150,just incase you didnt check this,look under the dash at the bottom of the steering column,there is a bracket that bolts on with 2 torque bolts at ( t-25 or t-30) the shift cable connects to that bracket and when it loosens up it wont go into park or if loose enough it may not shift to reverse either.An easy way to tell if its loose is if the shift lever feels loose or real easy to move.Also at the transmission where the shift cable connects there is a plastic holder with groves on it for adjustment,dont try adjusting it but inspect it if its loose or broken,if you try adjusting it then its tough to get it back where it needs to be for all the gears to work with the shift indicator tab,about it not starting,that may have to do with the safety neutral switch on the transmission,but double check the linkage to make sure its really tight before worrying about that switch,im not always on line these days but i will help more when i can.Good luck

Testimonial: "nov2771 advised with the 2 torque bolts at (t-25 or t-30) was right on the money. The bolts were loose...However, upon further investing I noticed that on the top of the column there is a notch that goes into a slot right before the two (2) torque bolts...this gear is what i believe prevents the car from going into the parking and prevents the key from being removed at the ignition. The shift lever moves freely...but does not move the cable and gears at the transmission.... "

SOURCE: have 1999 Ford Expedition xlt. My gear indicator

This comes straight from the repair manual..
1. Remove the upper steering column cover.
2. Put the shifter in drive position.
3. Move the shift lever clockwise until it stops (all the way to first gear position, then move it back two detent positions to the Drive position.
4. Hang an a weight (something) with 8 pounds of weight on the lever to hold it in place.
5. Center the indicator neddle in the middle of drive position.
6. Rotate the thumbwheel on the bottom of the steering column to remove all slack from the indicator cable.
7 Install the upper steering column cover.

SOURCE: how to change spark plugs on a ford expedition

I recently changed them and it was a job when you have to crawl up and inside the engine area. But anyways, I started out by buying the E3 plugs, which don't have to be gapped and they do save a little gas plus increased in a little more power. (not much), These set me back $56. go with a basic motorcraft platinum or bosch platinum. I then removed the top engine cover, removed bolts for fuel rail and easily pulled the injector rail up (you will see to replace the o-rings on the injectors by some people, but if you're careful you don't have to.) This gives you the room you need at the back of the engine to remove the plugs. I started at the front by removing the small bolt holding the coil in place, then removing the the coil/wire with a boot removal tool. ( Again you don't need this tool, but it comes in handy at the back plugs). After removing the coil, I simply remove the plug, Apply anti-seize to the new one and install plug. I then apply Di-Electric grease to the inside of the coil boot to prevent moisture getting in. I then install the coil back down on the plug and tighten down and move on to the next.
1. you will need a swivel for the socket
2. you will need an extension, ( I use a long 8" extension)
3. Anti-Seize Grease
4. Di-Electric Grease
5. If installing a plug to be gapped it is .54
6. After installing, check for fuel leaks at the injectors.

It took me about 1 1/2 hours to replace all plugs and a dealer charges about $375. Good Luck if you need any further help get back to me and I'll help any I can.