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The service and repair manual with diagram will provide you step by step help to fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com
I agree with Riley. But it has to come out either way. If the crack goes to any axle seals, replace it. It will never stop leaking. If it is an aluminium housing, I would replace it. Never had much luck sealing them, as they will continue cracking. Cast iron I would consider, but the crack has to be ground down and filled in. You just can't weld the surface and expect it to stay.
The door pull has 2 screws inside. the manual window crank has a screw in the center of the pivot. the power window style has a few screws at the control switch assembly. the door handle has 2 screws(10 mm) deep inside. The rest of the panel comes off by gently prying at the edges of the panel with a putty knife. There are plastic"poppers" that hold the panel to the door. Easily broken. Use a flashlight to see where they are. Be careful.
you may need service. generally, if a window pops off it's track, it's more than some DIYers can handle. if you manage to get the window in the "up" position, and the higlander uses a tailgate-style access to the rear, you lose that access. toyota windows are notorious for popping off their tracks.
This might be an option if you want to keep the engine. If you can get to this area without pulling the engine and IF the block is thick enough, you can have a stainless steel bracket welded to the block to replace the mounting holes that are broken. It takes a bit of fabrication to make--usually a good vise, torch and a hammer is all you'll need. I have a Henry J with a 348 chevy engine in it. The engine is unique and i wanted to keep it so I had to do so welding on it for an A/C bracket and Chrysler center mounted motor supports. Stainless steel welding rods (308 rods) work great when welding cast iron blocks. I've even repaired cracked piston bores with them.
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