I can bleed the brakes and get a full pedal but it will not last. In a matter of hours the pedal will gradually decrease until the brake light comes on. I have taken it to a chevrolet garage who says there is no brake leak that they can find; also have taken it my regular mechanic who has bled the brakes at least 30 times; they cannot find a leak and have tightened each brake line connection over and over again. The rear brakes have been inspected no apparant leaks in the brake piston. Problem has been going on for at least two years now; problem especially bad in winter because ABS system doesn't work properly when rear system is dysfunctional. On occasion have had to use emergency brake to stop car on snow or ice. Any suggestions?
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For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.
WARNING
Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.
MASTER CYLINDER
See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.
Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown
PRESSURE BLEEDING
When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
Right rear wheel
Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:
Right rear wheel
Left front wheel
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
MANUAL BLEEDING
See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
Right rear wheel
Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:
Right rear wheel
Left front wheel
Left rear wheel
Right front wheel
Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn
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I replaced the master cyclinder 3 times; the brake booster twice and the ABS electronic brake modulator once; none of these devices made any long term difference; after installing the device(s) the brakes would again be bled and would be fine for about two weeks and then I would have to start the weekly bleeding process again. There is never any trace of brake fluid on any of the connections or any of the lines; but somewhere there's a leak that allows air into the system. (at least that's what my mechanic thinks..he just can't find the source of the leak).
have they pulled the master cylinder loose from the brake booster to lake sure it isnt leaking back into the booster?
Emergency brake?
Anyway, sounds like your mechanics lost their tools, hey?
Have you had the master brake cylinder looked at yet?
To your knowledge, has anyone ever poured anything other than approved brake fluid into the reservoir?
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