The starter turns the engine over fine. When you release the key and it goes back to the ON position, the starter continues to run, until you manually turn the key to the OFF position. The engine never fires.
The solution to this problem was simple, embarrasing and frustrating. The dome light was left on, and discharged the battery....enough to prevent the ignition from firing apparently. I did not suspect this, because the starter would turn the engine over very well, for a long time, and would do this repeatedly. In all my experience, I have never seen an engine spin that well and not start. According to the dealer, the voltage was too low for the ignition to work. While I do not know the exact threshhold where the voltage is too low to crank, I could have detected the condition by checking the voltage at the battery while cranking. It should have been significantly below 12 volts, indicating a low battery. The tow truck driver who picked it up simply used a portable battery to jump it off and cranked it with no problem. The symptom of the starter continuing to run after releasing the key is new technology with computerized controls, and is normal nowdays. You don't really notice this because the engine usually fires so quickly that it is undetectable.
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Could be a number of thing's , can you do automotive electrical testing ? Do you know if starting is PCM / ECM controlled or BCM controlled ? Do you know what these are ? BCM - body control module , PCM/ECM - engine computer !
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12-volt signal to the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) Crank Request circuit. The ECM/PCM verifies that the transmission is in the PARK or NEUTRAL position. With the transmission in Park, voltage flows through the Park/Neutral position switch and feeds the starter relay coil. The PCM then grounds the control circuit of the starter relay. When the starter relay is energized it allows battery positive voltage to the starter solenoid S terminal. On some vehicles the starter will continue to crank the engine with the key released until it starts or the crank command has timed out to prevent excessive heat build up in the starter circuitry or the ECM/PCM receives an engine run flag.
Circuit Description (BCM Controlled)
Moving the ignition to the START position signals the body control module (BCM) that engine crank has been requested. The BCM verifies that theft is not active and sends a serial data message to the powertrain control module (PCM) requesting engine start. The BCM also energizes the RUN/CRANK RELAY. When the RUN/CRANK RELAY switch side closes, and the vehicle is in Park or Neutral or with the clutch is fully depressed, if equipped, supplies voltage to the starter relay coil. The PCM verifies the transmission is in Park or Neutral and the clutch is fully depressed, if equipped. The PCM will then ground the control circuit of the starter relay, closing the switch supplying voltage to the starter solenoid. On some vehicles the starter will continue to crank the engine with the key released until it starts of the crank command has timed out to prevent excessive heat build up in the starter circuitry or the PCM receives an engine run flag.
Do you know what a park neutral safety switch is ? What do you mean key stuck in ignition ? Can't turn the key to off position , or you can an the key will not come out ?
Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .
You can jump starter relay to see if starter will crank the engine. Pull the starter relay, use jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87, terminal 30 is hot all the time and there is a fuse, the starter motor should crank the engine. If you try that make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Two voltage circuits at starter motor, one is hot all the time. The other goes hot when relay is energized. The starter motor grounds through engine block. Battery positive and negative connections are important.
This is perfectly normal on 02 and up GM cars The starter will engage and release when the car's engine runs. If you let go of the switch before the engine runs, the vehicle will continue to start until the engine starts. Once the vehicle starts, even if you crank it again, it will not grind your starter because of the anti-grind feature built with that model. Do not worry my friend, your car is fine!
Check the dash once you turn the key to the run position the passlock runs a security check using a set resistance value through the chip in the key. If the security light begins to flash the reading it received was incorrect or it didn't get a reading at all. You can try reseting the value it is looking for by turning the key to start then releasing it. After 10 minutes turn it off then cycle it start again leaving it in on for 10 minutes then back to off then one more time. After the third cycle has completed for a total of 30 minutes. You should be able to turn the key on and start the vehicle. If the light continues to flash their is a problem with the chip in the key or the connections within the ignition its self. Both are common but a Pass Lock Relearn as described above will usually adapt to the poor connection values. Hope this helps.
ricks63toy, I believe that Ford still uses what is called an inertia switch even in the hybrids. This switch will shut off in the event of an accident shutting off the fuel pump. This is a safety feature built into the vehicle. Seeing that this is a newer vehicle I trust that you still have the manual. If not, the switches are usually located in the trunk. Look on the side walls of the trunk and see if you can locate it. It is usually marked by a sticker. When you find the switch, push the red button down until you hear a click. This will reset the switch and allow power back to your fuel pump. Good luck with this.
Its very rare to have an ECM go bad and still have the vehicle start and run.
The vehicle will start itself meaning if you turn the key to the crank position and let go the engine will continue to crank until it start. This is completely normal.
If you have an extended crank condition where it takes longer than normal to start the vehicle especially after a hot soak (the engine is fully warmed up, you swing into target for 20 minutes, and then try to start and it takes longer). This is usually caused by loss of fuel pressure. Two common problems that cause this are the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump.
The component is a
starter. When you insert your key into theignition and turn it, you switch on the power to the coil and vehicle
computers. By turning the key to the start position it will supply power to the
starter and solenoid which cranks the engine until you release the key allowing
to return to the ignition on position.If the battery is weak the starter solenoid may engage producing a
clicking sound, but it will not crank the engine. Another test is to turn on
the dome light and try to start the vehicle, if you see the dome light dim when
you are trying to start the car the battery is weak or the starter has a short.
Starters are temperamental at times and can be intermittent working sometimesand malfunction other times. Your ignition
switch, fuse, or relay could also produce symptoms of your vehicle not
Can you actually hear the pump run? On most vehicles it is not good to drive a vehicle with gas under 1/4 tank before filling up again. makes the pump work harder and can cause the pump to go out. When the pump goes out the vehicle will not turn over