The alternator, battery and ignition switch have been replaced. The car STILL won't start on first attempt. it takes 3-8 times for it to start. Other symptoms..... horn won't work sometimes, the car did not turn off when the key was off (once)...the starter was checked and it is OK. It is very frustrating. What else can it be???
This may or may not help. Hopefully it will. We recently purchased this
1998 chrysler town & country. Everything was working fine, started
fine, etc. we took it to get emissions done.....passed emissions..
.made it home. i turned the car off to run inside for a minute. came
back out car started.. ran for 3 seconds than died out. tried again...
ran for 3 seconds than died out... after that it no longer would do
anything. all the lights worked except in the ignition module. the top
dashboard lights worked though. I then noticed that the "alarm set"
light stayed lit. after replacing fuses and running an OBD test and
found no trouble codes or issues with fuses it dawned on me it may be
the alarm. after searching the internet
for hours i found a forum that suggested unplugging the battery for
about 5 minutes....rehook it and then try starting it again. well i
tried doing that the first time using the REMOTE to unlock the doors
and nothing happened. i locked the doors and repeated the same battery
unhook-rehook process except without using the remote... (i noticed a
lot of forums saying that the remotes can be deffective in that they
somehow trigger the alarm if the transmitter is not working
properly)... so after unhooking and rehooking the battery and using
only the key to unlock it started right up! so i've decided to not use
the remote at all and have had no other problems. let me know if this
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your alternator or battery is probably bad. to test which one, while your engine is running (after being jumped if its not starting obviously), remove the positive cable from the battery. if the car dies, then you know its your alternator. it is common, although, for both of them to go out at the same time.
Well, first, the battery is not dead. You could have a poor electrical connection somewhere between the battery, starter, ignition switch, or another component of your start circuit, or possibly a failing starter solenoid, or ignition switch. Some electrical testing will be necessary to find the problem. A quick check the next time it won't crank over, is to pull the starter solenoid wire off and check for power on the wire when key is held in crank position. If power then, probably a failing starter solenoid. If no power there, then you have to diagnose the start circuit back through the ignition switch to the battery. Are all your battery and ground connections clean and tight? Starter connections? Use process of elimination, use care, and you'll find the problem.
The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)
To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.
You could have a start that has gone bad and will need to be replace,or your having a Passlock system problem.
Your Passlock may need to relearn the ignition keys, if the
ignition lock has gone bad like my in-laws Grand Am Gt, here is what i
did so they will not get stranded any more. Buy a Passlock by pass
module for around $70.00. You can orderone from GMPASSLOCK.COM in the
mean time try resetting the Passlock. Good luck
Ignition keys relearn takes about 30 min to do. 30-Minute Learn
Procedure 1.) Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2.) Attempt to
start the engine, then release the key to ON; the vehicle will not
start. 3.) Observe the SECURITY tell tale light. After approximately 10
minutes, the light will turn OFF. 4.) Turn OFF the ignition switch, and
wait 5 seconds. 5.) Repeat steps 1 through 4 - two more times - for a
total of 3 cycles of 10 minutes. 3x10 = 30 minutes. The vehicle is now
ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or
passwords on the next ignition switch turn from OFF to CRANK Important:
Turn the Ignition Switch OFF. The vehicle learns the Passlock
Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition
from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to
start the vehicle. 6.) Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the
Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password. 7.) With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs
will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.
Without a scan tool you may
have momentary starter interruptions while history clears itself.
Sounds like the alternator isnt charging the battery to me. Try getting a Ohm/Volt meter and testing the lines that go to the alternator. If the show any kind of voltage then all should be good, if not then you have to trace the wire back to the battery fuse block and try on both side of the fusable link. If you are getting a reading on the battery side of the link but not the other side you will have to have the wire replaced or run a new one. As far as it not starting now, from replacing the battery I am not 100% sure. I think that his uncle is correct and you would have to reset the security system, the mechanic should know how to do that.
Sounds like it is the ignition switch. You need to purchase a new switch from the dealer and make sure that it is a redesigned one, or at least get their guarantee that the new one will not fail.
There is most likely a build up of grease inside the switch. This is a design flaw with the factory switches, but has apparently been fixed with new switches from the dealer. Like I said, just make sure it is a new one when you are buying it from the dealer. You will need to perform a Passlock Relearn once the new switch is installed.
The old ignition switch will need to be replaced. If you feel like saving yourself some money and do it yourself the follow the instructions below.
1. Remove cover behind the steering wheel 2. Unplug the switch and unscrew the two torx bolts 3. Install new switch by reversing process.
Any time a component in the Passlock system is
changed, the learn procedure must be completed for the Theft Deterrent
System to sync the password. The procedure requires no
special tech tools or computers.
30 Minute Learn Procedure 1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON, vehicle will not start. 3. Observe the SECURITY telltale light, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale light will turn OFF. 4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes, the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
Important The vehicle learns the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.