1991 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer Logo
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Missing and spark problem

I've tried the boots with and without the dialectic grease, still is arcing out to the plug either way, Im not sure if i have auto or manual timing. I loosened the distributor bolt and turned the distibutor manually until the engine sounded good, but later i read on the radiator that i was supposed to disconnect a brown wire under the passenger side floorboard when doing the timing, then to reconnect when done. Im going to be checking for vaccum leaks with propane, but it just seems wired that it idles decent when cold but when up tp temp and under load it runs like junk.

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  • Posted on Sep 10, 2008
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Joined: Sep 09, 2008
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That is cause when your motor is cold it runs on a serton speed, when its hot is picks up refs,
your timing stays the same as you set it but your engin starts runing faster.
so yes it would miss some times,i had that problem on a ford 3 liter,see if any one in your area is doing Dino tuning.
They would tune the valve timing and spark timing.
The distributor aint the only timing you should set,even the timing belt or chain can be of by 1 tooth and it can cause that problem.

Hope this helps...

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Hey, i may be able to help you,you should just let me know if you have a auto timing or normal manual timing,
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Rough Running

hi riley
im dave

kind of funny that they said you should replace the plug wires when checking them to see if they need to be replaced is a major part of a tune up. How much did they charge for a tune-up? What was included?
In any event this is how you check your plug wires. Make sure you do this one at a time to prevent mixing them up, which is essential for proper engine operation. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. You can use a special spark plug removal tool available for a low cost at most auto parts counters or you can grasp the rubber boot and twist it gently while pulling the wire free. Be sure the pull on the boot and not on the wire or you'll likely pull the wire out of the boot neccessatating new wires. Check inside the boot for corrosion, which is a white crusty powder (don't mistake the white dielectric grease used on spark plug wire boots for corrosion). Using an insulated screwdriver, insert it into the boot so it contacts the metal connector inside and have and assisstant turn the engine over while you hold the metal part of the screwdriver about an inch or less (but not touching) from a good ground like an unpainted screw or a piece of metal. Look for a strong, even spark to be generated between the blade and ground and steady intervals. Turn the engine off and push the plug wire and boot back onto the spark plug. It should fit tightly onto the spark plug. If it doesn't, remove the spark plug wire and a pair of pliers to crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit is snug. Clean built-up dirt and grease along the entire length of the wire with a clean cloth while inspecting the wire for burnt areas, cracks, and other obvious damage. Bend the wire in several places to make sure that the inside conductor hasn't hardened. Repeat the process for each wire. If new spark plug wires are neccessary, buy a complete set, pre-cut for your particular engine. Terminals and rubber boots should already be installed on the wires. Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing up the firing order. Coat the metal conductor with dielectric grease that will come with the pack of wires. Make sure the terminals are securely seated in the coil pack and on the spark plugs. Be sure that the length of the wire you replace is equal to the new wire. If all seems well the wires wait until dark and start the vehicle. Open the hood and look along the length of the plugs and around the coil packs that the plugs connect to for arcing(sparks).
If you need to run a diagnostic post me back
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