I've tried the boots with and without the dialectic grease, still is arcing out to the plug either way, Im not sure if i have auto or manual timing. I loosened the distributor bolt and turned the distibutor manually until the engine sounded good, but later i read on the radiator that i was supposed to disconnect a brown wire under the passenger side floorboard when doing the timing, then to reconnect when done. Im going to be checking for vaccum leaks with propane, but it just seems wired that it idles decent when cold but when up tp temp and under load it runs like junk.
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Re: missing and spark problem
That is cause when your motor is cold it runs on a serton speed, when its hot is picks up refs,
your timing stays the same as you set it but your engin starts runing faster.
so yes it would miss some times,i had that problem on a ford 3 liter,see if any one in your area is doing Dino tuning.
They would tune the valve timing and spark timing.
The distributor aint the only timing you should set,even the timing belt or chain can be of by 1 tooth and it can cause that problem.
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If it is an engine miss you may have some bad spark plug wires. The moisture in the air from the road spray may be causing your plug wires to arc. You can inspect your plug and coil wires for signs of arcing. You can take a spray bottle with water in it and spray your wires and see if you can duplicate the problem or hear or see an arc. Inspect your distributor cap also for cracks and signs of arcing. Has it been a while since you've tuned it up? If it's a transmission issue I would inspect the wiring around the transmission for bad connections or damage to them. You can take dielectric grease and put a little in the connections which may help with moisture issues.
could be a couple of things. 1) bad plug or spark gap. check plug for burning on electrode. check gap. if you replace 1 then replace them all. 2) check wires for any white lines. mainly around the boots, but check it all. the white lines are tell tale signs of arcing. replace if needed. 3) chech distributor cap & rotor for arcing. if you have a coil pack it could be whatever pack is controlling #6
It sounds like the plug wires are allowing the spark to arc through the boots causing the car to misfire the insulation brakes down over time and they arc to the valve cover not to the spark plugs good time to change the plugs too.
The dielectric grease simply makes the plug wire slide on the spark plug more smoothly (creating a better connection) and helps remove it later without destroying it. Wires should snap down and you may be hearing the arcing coming from one of the wires. If 'ticking' is the sound try looking at the wires closely while running in the dark. You may visually see the spark and you answer. Spark plugs are usually hand torqued but a torque wrench is never a bad idea.
If still no luck then I would suggest switching out plugs & / or wires with you old set to see if the problem disappears.
You have to remove the parts that are in the way, then lay on top of the engine to get at the plugs, you will need a good spark plug boot removal tool as well or you will tear the plug boots, the plugs don't need changing until 100,000 miles.
Hey, i may be able to help you,you should just let me know if you have a auto timing or normal manual timing,
in other words,do your ajust the timing on how fast you are driving or not.
About your wires arcing out of the boot,dialetic grease is a real good thing but as soon as it gets wet it tends to get thin and then leads away your spark.
Clean them off and use it with out the grease and see what happens,
you can also try and spray the plug on that metal hex with a clear coat and also around the plug hole...
kind of funny that they said you should replace the plug wires when checking them to see if they need to be replaced is a major part of a tune up. How much did they charge for a tune-up? What was included?
In any event this is how you check your plug wires. Make sure you do this one at a time to prevent mixing them up, which is essential for proper engine operation. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. You can use a special spark plug removal tool available for a low cost at most auto parts counters or you can grasp the rubber boot and twist it gently while pulling the wire free. Be sure the pull on the boot and not on the wire or you'll likely pull the wire out of the boot neccessatating new wires. Check inside the boot for corrosion, which is a white crusty powder (don't mistake the white dielectric grease used on spark plug wire boots for corrosion). Using an insulated screwdriver, insert it into the boot so it contacts the metal connector inside and have and assisstant turn the engine over while you hold the metal part of the screwdriver about an inch or less (but not touching) from a good ground like an unpainted screw or a piece of metal. Look for a strong, even spark to be generated between the blade and ground and steady intervals. Turn the engine off and push the plug wire and boot back onto the spark plug. It should fit tightly onto the spark plug. If it doesn't, remove the spark plug wire and a pair of pliers to crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit is snug. Clean built-up dirt and grease along the entire length of the wire with a clean cloth while inspecting the wire for burnt areas, cracks, and other obvious damage. Bend the wire in several places to make sure that the inside conductor hasn't hardened. Repeat the process for each wire. If new spark plug wires are neccessary, buy a complete set, pre-cut for your particular engine. Terminals and rubber boots should already be installed on the wires. Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing up the firing order. Coat the metal conductor with dielectric grease that will come with the pack of wires. Make sure the terminals are securely seated in the coil pack and on the spark plugs. Be sure that the length of the wire you replace is equal to the new wire. If all seems well the wires wait until dark and start the vehicle. Open the hood and look along the length of the plugs and around the coil packs that the plugs connect to for arcing(sparks).
If you need to run a diagnostic post me back