Dometic Refrigerators - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Something may have shifted. Make sure the fan still works

Light rear burner on stove, turn to high. Light other rear burner, turn to high. Flame height / spread should not have changed. Light front burner, watch rear, put on high. If flame on rear changes, you have a problem with has pressure on your propane system. Perhaps regulator, perhaps out of propane.

If flames stay same, turn off stove. Go to back of fridge, make sure shutoff has valve is open fully. Close and reopen. Check operation. What color is flame? If yellow, you have a blockage in air inlet of burner assembly. It will need to be pulled and checked, or problem with burner itself. If blue, but still small, take your coach to t.v. service and ask for a propane diagnostic with concentration of measurements at fridge. Might still have blockage though.

No model #. For electronic / dsi models.
Check your 12volts first. Use a good quality meter, measure across terminals on relay board. Should be greater than 12v, especially if converter is plugged in. Otherwise, erratic operation can result. If voltage good, contact dometic for potential service issues regarding controls wiring. There are 2 models so far off top od my head.

For models that are manual operation.
Your mode switch is on its way out or shaft has started to slip and handle / pointer does not line up with mode properly. Verify handle position, test mode switch. Both of these tests are in the manual.

Try looking on side of the chimney / flue for a rewritable thermal fuse. Will have two wires coming out of it, reset button between them. Press button to reset. If still inop, use a test light and probe across the wires. Clip onto one and probe the other. If the reset button was pressed, and test probe light is on, then you have a bad thermal fuse.

If the thermal fuse resets, take a hard look at why it may have tripped. Operating off level, operating in high temps, blocked ventilation, leaking cooling unit.

Since I don't know what does work I am kind of shooting in the dark. Does the ac heater get hot ? The spark ignitor is part of the control board. But won't work? I assume that you have a user manual but I am including a link to download one. https://www.dometic.com/f6e8a773-69f5-4624-9b35-54e8801da7af.fodoc Note that there are three fuses. B (12V control) and C (120V Heater) on the control board and a thermofuse L located on the stack. If L is good and everything else is good there should be 12VDC on J1 and at Fuse B

Look at the back of your fridge by temoving lower vent / avross panel on outdide. Find the 12v power wires that are likely coming up from floor of compartmentn. They should go to a small terminal block. Make sure they are tight here, on both sides of the block.

Look closely in this area for a fuse holder, probably valued at 25 amps. Check this fuse, replace as necessary. If blown, can be caused by dc heater failing or converter may have surged while running on the shoreline.

Find the AC outlet where fridge is plugged into. See if it has a reset button on it, otherwise check bath and kitxhen outlets for an ourlet that resets the ground fault / earth leakage function. If this is tripped, may have been a surge when operaring on shoreline or generarator or a wiring problem could be present.

You may also have a bad mode switch, especially if frisge is gerting both 12vdc and ac power to it. Its not unusual for propane to continue to be able to operate since that is the preferred mode for most rv / caravan refrigerators.

Service Manual:
https://www.dometic.com/assets/86/36/54-223-maw41a_rev_48636.pdf?att=true

no ammonia in your fridge http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Dometic-Service-AES.pdf and if their was you wouldn't have the tools or way to repair ammonia

If changing thermostat setting doesn’t help, replace thermostat

have it replaced

manual page 3&4 have some info may be other pages also. https://www.altestore.com/static/datafiles/Others/rge400.pdf

Your 'frige has either; a 12 volt power supply or, a gas flame to circulate the refrigerant gas to cause absorption refrigeration to work; check or, replace your power supply as it 1. holds open the gas valve relay, 2. heats the gas with a heating element.

thermal coupler is probably bad, the igniter will spark and the gas will be there until you release the igniter button.

there is not one

Yes, I would check your venting. Shut it down and open the access to the back of the fridge. The venting should be apparent and clean of course. Propane has a high water vapor content and contains Carbon Monoxide and should not be burned unvented in small spaces. Good Luck

compressor thermo fuse resets it self

have another tech look at it because he would know would need a tap a line to do pressure readings and add freon --as to reverse polarity that would hurt vehicles or battery operated type equipment as to house hold it would be the the low out put voltage that would damage equipment