Can you do me a great favor ? need to find out which color wire goes into which slot on the main power harness (hole position in the connector you sell,Kenwood dnx 7140) because I lost the cable, and in my country nobody sells (I am in Argentina) and I really trying by Google get information and I cannot fine it. (I have the Manual , and I know each color function but not its position in the connector. If you can do it, you save me life.. Thank?s [email protected]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOXCONN-RS780M03G1-8EKRS2HM0D-DDR2-HDMI-PCI-MOTHERBOARD-/250896178535

1) http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHERBD/Shared/4006272R/4006272Rnv.shtml

2) Product Views;

http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHERBD/Shared/4006272R/4006272Rtc.shtml


B - Processor Core Power Connector;
is the connector on the motherboard for the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Located close the motherboard top edge, left side. Yellowish 4-socket hole square connector.
General example of connector, and power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

2) D - CPU Fan Connector,
The Processor fan connector is white in color, 3-pin, and above the processor socket.

3) F - Main Power Connector,
The 24-pin ATX main power cable connector on the motherboard, is to the Right of the Ram Memory slots

4) N - Front Audio Connector, (Front Panel audio ports)
Red in color, 9-pin header, and is located below the white No.2 PCI slot, at the bottom of the motherboard.

5) P - System Fan Connector, (System Fan = Computer case fan)
White in color, 3-pin header, located below the No.2 PCI slot, at the bottom of the motherboard.

6) Q - IEEE 1394 Connector,
For the front panel Firewire (1394) ports.
Black in color, 9-pin header, located at the bottom right corner, of the white No.2 PCI slot

7) R - USB Connectors, ( Front Panel USB ports )
F_USB 1 through F_USB4.
Located at the bottom of the motherboard, and these four separate headers support TWO USB ports each. Yellow in color.

8) S - Front Panel Connector,
located at Bottom/Right corner of motherboard.

Pin 9 is N/C also.
Not Connected. Used for +5 Volt power for the factory.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Ya know Acer owns Gateway now,

http://support.gateway.com/s//MOTHERBD/Shared/4006233R/4006233Rnv.shtml

A) Power Supply to motherboard cabling;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECS-MCP61SM-AM-V-1-0A-SOCKET-AM2-AMD-MOTHERBOARD-uATX-/290606277901

Scroll down to the motherboard top view photo.

Product Views > Hardware Details

1) 24-pin ATX main power cable. (S - Main Power Connector)

This is a general example of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

[Note color of connectors does NOT matter ]

Note the Lock on the side of the main power cable's connector, and the matching Tab on the motherboard connector. When properly plugged in, the hooked end of the Lock will be over the Tab, on the motherboard connector.

In the photo of the motherboard shown on the Ebay link, this connector is on the Right side of the motherboard, next to the blue IDE (PATA) connector.

2) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable; (F - Auxiliary 12V ATX Connector)

General example of a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

In the motherboard photo; Small square 4-socket hole connector, to the Bottom/Left corner of the Processor socket.

This power cable's connector also has a Lock, and the motherboard connector has a Tab.

That's all the power cables that go to the motherboard.

B) With 2 SATA headers (Connectors) on the motherboard, and one IDE (PATA) connector, it suggests to me that this motherboard is set up to use a SATA harddrive.

This is a general example of a SATA power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

Note that it has 15 contact pins, and between it, and the SATA data cable connector, it is the larger of the two.
There is a Lock tab on the connector that you depress, to install, or remove the cable.

You can use a SATA optical drive (CD/DVD drive), or an IDE (PATA) optical drive.
An IDE (PATA) optical drive uses a standard 4-pin Peripheral power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

[ Misnomered as a 'Molex' power cable. Molex was the first to make the power cable's connector. Name stuck, kind of like calling an open-end wrench a Crescent wrench ]

A SATA data cable is used for the SATA harddrive. The connector end that goes to the Harddrive, is usually a 90 degree bent elbow.
The straight end plugs into the motherboard,

General example of a SATA data cable, and it's corresponding connector on the motherboard,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SATA_ports.jpg

Note the L-shape in the inside of the SATA data cable's connector, and the L-shape on the motherboard connector. They line up.
The SATA power cable also has this L-shape.

In Hardware Details click on -> Q - SATA Connectors
The Bottom one, or one closest to the outside edge of the motherboard, is SATA1.

Although it isn't marked on the motherboard, or at least not visible in this photo, SATA 4 is. Look at the top where a SATA 4 connector would be.
The SATA harddrive should be plugged into the SATA1 header.
(Connector)

HOWEVER, the beauty of SATA is that it does NOT matter, which SATA header on the motherboard, you plug the SATA harddrive into.

BIOS will find it.

(Supposed to be SATA harddrive to SATA1, and a SATA optical drive to SATA2)
In the motherboard photo on Ebay, they are Orange in color, and under the blue IDE (PATA) connector.

C) Going from Hardware Details and the Ebay motherboard photo;

B - CPU Fan 1 Connector, is where the Processor fan plugs in.
In the motherboard photo, there are 7 cylindrical Electrolytic Capacitors in a row, to the left of the processor socket.

This connector is located immediately above the top capacitor, near the outside edge of the motherboard. (Brown in color)

E - Floppy Disk Connector, is above the white 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, and the blue IDE (PATA) connector. It is Yellowish in color. (34 pins)

G - System Fan Connector, is white in color, has 3 contact pins, and is located under the white, square 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable connector. This is where the computer case fan plugs in.

I - PCI Express x16 Connector, is Orange in color, and below the processor socket. It has PCI Express silkscreened on the motherboard immediately below it.
This where a graphics card, and ONLY a graphics card, is installed.

J - PCI Express x1 Connector, is white in color, and immediately below the orange PCI Express x16 connector.
This is NOT used for a graphics card.

Whatever you can use in a PCI slot, except a graphics card, can be used in this slot; -> Provided it is a PCI Express x1 card.
(Ethernet Card, Sound Card, etc)

L - CD-in Connector is where the audio cable from the Main (Primary) optical drive goes to.
Ya got me on this one. I know it's located real close to the Realtek audio chipset, and I think that is to the left of the orange PCI Express x16 slot.

M - Front Audio Connector, is where the front audio (Sound) ports, of the Front Panel connect to.
Green in color, and located under the bottom white long PCI slot, and near the outside edge of the motherboard.

N - Clear CMOS Jumper is self explanatory. It is located under the finned Heatsink, (Looks like a meat tenderizer), of the Southbridge chip.
(Which is located under the Ram Memory slots)

O - USB Connectors are Yellow in color, and located under the finned Heatsink of the Southbridge chip, and towards the outside edge of the motherboard. (Or also located under the Ram Memory slots)

P - Front Panel Connector, is located at the Bottom/Right corner of the motherboard, close to the 'Buzzer'. (Buzzer is used for BIOS Beep Codes) PANEL1

4 pins on the Left side, 5 pins on the Right side.
The pins on the Left side are numbered EVEN.
The pins on the Right side are numbered ODD.

Starting on the Bottom of the Left side going Up;
Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10.

Starting on the Bottom of the Right side going Up;
Pins 1, 3, 5, and 7

A) Pins 1 and 3 are for the HarDDrive activity LED. (Light)
Pin 1 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
If the HDD LED is dim when the harddrive is active, switch the wires around.

B) Pins 5 and 7 are for a Reset switch. IF a Reset switch is used.

C) Pin 9 is Not Connected. Used by the factory.

D) Pins 2 and 4 are for the Power On LED. (Light)
Pin 2 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
If the PWR LED is dim when the computer is on, switch the wires around.

E) Pins 6 and 8 are for the Power On switch.

More to follow.
For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

I need you to check something first.
I'm going to get detailed here to explain;

1) The Dell Dimension 1100 (B110) uses a 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

The above is a STANDARD pinout for the wires going into a 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.

For a time period Dell had parts made for their computers, that were PROPRIETARY.
(All pre-built computer manufacturers have their computer parts made by somebody else)

They were Proprietary, in that the STANDARD guidelines for desktop computers was NOT followed.
They had the wires changed around for the 20-pin ATX main power cable.

They also had the pins in the 20-pin ATX main power connector, on the motherboard, changed also.
Means if you plug in an aftermarket Power Supply, it may toast the motherboard, Processor, Ram Memory, Harddrive, graphics card, (IF used), and so on.

Fun stuff huh?
Dell changed from being Proprietary as far as I know.

However you computer may fall into the old proprietary parts.
You need to compare the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector, of the old Power Supply, TO the new Power Supply's 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

SEE if those wires (Color code) are going into the same socket holes, as the old one.
Look at the Lock on the side, and use it for the key.

In the Standard 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector, Number 1 pin is the Orange wire, and on the side OPPOSITE of the Lock.
Number 11 wire is also Orange, but is on the same side as the Lock.

Now you have the key, check out the old Power Supply's 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
Same color of wires going into the proper socket holes in the main power cable's connector?

Whew! Good! Let's go on.

You need to get the Power Supply going.

Bypass the Power On switch.

IF, you bypass the Power On switch, and the Power Supply comes on, you have a bad $5 Power On switch.

IF you bypass the Power On switch, and the Power Supply does NOT come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

Test has NOTHING to do directly with the Power On switch, or it's wires.
A jumper wire is used on the Soft Power On pin, TO ANY Black wire, in the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector,

Looking back at the 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

The GREEN wire is the Soft Power On wire.
A-N-Y Black wire you see is a Ground wire.

(The power wires are Positive wires. ALL Black wires are Negative wires )

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip.
Straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.
The top of the U is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape.
This taped area is for your fingers and thumb to hold onto.

Turn the U-shape upside down, and the 'Legs' are what you are going to use.
One leg goes down into a socket hole with the Green wire.
The other leg goes down into ANY socket hole that has a Black wire in it.

The 'Leg' of the jumper wire goes RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole.
Where the wires go down into the connector of the 20-pin ATX main power cable, is the BACK.
The 20-pin ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard, as shown in the photo to the far right, in the Playtool link.

The jumper wire goes down into the Back of the connector, and into the two socket holes named above.
The jumper wire MUST go far enough down into the socket hole of the connector, to go PAST the insulation of the wire, AND touch the metal terminal at the end of the wire.

All wires going into the main power cable's connector, end in a metal terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The left side is the Back, and the part that get's crimped on the insulation of the wire. The right side is the Front.
The Front of those Molex metal terminals can be seen in the center photo, of the Playtool link.

Contact made is no more than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is A Momentary Contact Switch)

Get the Power Supply going, then post back in a Comment, as to the results.

(Also make SURE the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable is plugged in,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

This is power for the Processor, and sometimes forgotten. NO, it has nothing to do with why the Power Supply does not come on. Just wanted to add.

This is where it plugs into the motherboard,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim1100/EN/SM/techov.htm#wp1061217

Processor and heatsink connector (J2E1) is where the Processor sits.
Processor power connector (J5B1) is where the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable plugs in )

May I also ask why a new Power Supply was purchased, and a new motherboard?
Post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Yes, it's called bypassing the Power On switch. Has nothing to do with the switch itself, or it's wires.

You use a jumper wire on the 20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
Touch the jumper wire from the Green wire (Soft Power On) to ANY Black wire. (Ground)
(Soft Power On is abbreviated as PS_ON)

If the Power Supply comes on, the problem is the Power On switch.
If the Power Supply does Not come on, the problem is the Power Supply.

1) 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

2) 24-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Look at the photos of the ATX main power cable plugged into the motherboard.
Where the wires go down into the connector is the Back of the connector.

This is where the jumper wire goes down into.

The jumper wire goes down into the socket hole, in the Back of the connector, RIGHT NEXT to the wire IN the socket hole.
The jumper wire has to go pretty far down in the socket hole.

[ATX power cable plugged into the motherboard, Power Supply plugged into power ]

At the end of every wire in the ATX main power cable's connector, is a metal terminal.

A Female Molex Crimp Terminal connector,

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/336134982/molex_female_crimp_terminal_connector/showimage.html

[You can click on the Zoom In icon { + } at the top to enlarge the view]

The jumper wire Must touch that metal terminal.
The jumper wire is made from a straightened out paper clip, bent into a U shape.
The middle of the U is wrapped a few times with Black plastic electrical tape.
This where your fingers hold onto the jumper wire.

(One wrap of Black plastic electrical tape is good for 600 Volts DC)

One 'leg' of the U shaped jumper wire goes down into the socket hole with a Green wire.
The other 'leg' of the U shaped jumper wire goes down into ANY socket hole with a Black wire.
(ALL Black wires are Ground wires)

The contact period made is no longer than 2 seconds.

The Voltage is 5 Volts DC.
Two flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

This is one generic ATX power on switch that I have found fits many computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

NOTE*

WATCH IT when buying an aftermarket Power Supply for your computer, if it needs one.
For a time period Dell was strictly a Proprietary computer manufacturer.
Dell wanted THEIR parts used in THEIR computers only.

They had the motherboard manufacturer switch the pins around in the ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
They also had the Power Supply manufacturer switch the power cables around in the Power Supply.

This means if you plug an ATX main power cable, from an aftermarket Power Supply, into one of these proprietary Dell motherboards, you WILL fry out the motherboard!

Can also fry out the Processor, Ram Memory, and Harddrive. (Plus a graphics card if you have one installed)

CHECK the color code of the aftermarket Power Supply's ATX main power cable, to the color code of the Dell power supply.

See that the color code of the wires matches the socket holes in the connector.

Have further questions regarding this, post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Test whether it is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply. Since the LAN card bit the dust, you may be looking at a worse problem, though.

Bypass the Power On switch.

If the Power Supply comes on, the problem is the switch.
[One generic ATX Power On switch, that I have found fits many computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

If the Power Supply does not readily come on, the problem is the Power Supply.

To bypass the Power On switch, you will be using a jumper wire on the
24-pin ATX main power cable connector.

Looks like this,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

(Not necessarily the same color, and isn't located in the same position on your motherboard, as shown in the link)

Motherboard orientation:
Processor to the top, Ram Memory slots to the right.

The 24-pin ATX main power cable connector on the motherboard, is to the near right, of the number 4 Ram Memory slot.

In case you do not have the Owner's Manual, for your Inspiron 530 desktop computer,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/inspd530/en/index.htm

On this page left-click on -
Owner's Manual - View - Download - (HTML 3.44MB)

Left-click on - Removing and Installing Parts
Left-click on - System Board Components
(System Board = Motherboard)

Number 7 - main power connector (ATX_POWER), is the
24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on your motherboard.

Referring back to the Playtool link, you will see a wire with Green insulation on it.
This is the Soft Power On wire. (PS_ON)

A jumper wire is used to connect it to ANY Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

[This is a DC circuit. There is a Positive, and a Negative.
A Ground wire is a Negative wire.

The green Soft Power On wire, is a positive wire containing 5 Volts.
You are completing a circuit.
The Soft Power On circuit.
You are bypassing the Power On switch]

There is no splicing of the wires to connect the jumper wire.
The jumper wire will go down into the socket holes, of the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.

One end of the jumper wire goes down into the socket hole, containing the green Soft Power On wire.
The other end of the jumper wire goes down into a socket hole, with ANY Black wire.

The 24-pin ATX main power cable, is connected to the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
Just as shown in the photo to the far right on the Playtool link.

The back of the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, is where the wires come in.
(The front of the power cable's connector is plugged into the motherboard)

I use a jumper wire that is approximately 3 inches long. (7.62cm)
An insulated wire. Both ends of the insulated wire are stripped of insulation, approximately 1/2 inch. (1.27cm)

One bare end of the jumper wire, goes down into the socket hole of the Green wire. Right next to the wire.
It has to go pretty far down in there.

At the end of each power wire, going into the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, is a metal terminal pin. (Actually is a round hollow metal pin)
The jumper wire's bare end Must touch that metal pin.

The other end of the jumper wire, goes down into ANY socket hole with a Black wire.
(ALL Black wires are Ground wires)

Power Supply (Computer) plugged into power, the jumper wire is inserted.
The contact is a very BRIEF one. No more than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

I suggest you also check the 12 Volt power rail. Check it with everything plugged in, inside the computer, and the computer on.
You need the Power Supply to have a load to get an accurate test.

There are 3 Voltage power rails in the Inspiron SMPS.
(Switched-Mode Power Supply, or just Power Supply for short)

A) The 3.3 Volt power rail
B) The 5 Volt power rail
C) The 12 Volt power rail.

The main one to check is the 12 Volt power rail.
[Orange wires are 3.3 Volt.
Red wires are 5 Volt.
Yellow wires are 12 Volt ]

The Positive (Red probe lead of the multimeter, is connected to any Yellow wire, coming out of the Power Supply.
The Negative (Black) probe lead of the multimeter, is connected to any Black (Ground) wire.

See if there is an unused standard 4-pin Peripheral power cable.
It has 1 Red wire, 1 Yellow wire, and two Black wires.
Connect to the Yellow wire, and to one of the Black wires.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

[Multimeter function set to DC Volts. If it has it, set it to the 0 to 50 Volt scale]

11 to 13 Volts is Okay, but I prefer the voltage to closer to 12.
11 Volts indicates it's time for a new Power Supply.

Hi,
Just check with a multimeter at the starter solenoid wire when you turn the key to the start position.
If you have no voltage present then trace the color of the wire at the starter and see if it is the same at the main harness connector. if it is then see if the color from the other side of the main harness connector is the same up to the ignition switch. Also check to see if there is a rely in the starter circut which may not be connected up.
You can also work it back the other way from the ignition key start position see if there is voltage, and trace the wiring from there. hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Jason

i have had the same problem it is a very simple way to fix you need to unplug the main power that goes to the motherboard and use a paper click to jump it and then quickly plug it in.
im sorry but i do not remember which 2 slots to use the paper click on but i know 1 was black and when you unplug your pc you will have to repeat this process each time

this might help
1994 Toyota Pickup Car Security Wiring Diagram
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): White And White/Red
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Black
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow Or Black/Red
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Negative Wire (-): Red/Black
Parking Light Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Green
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Blue/White
Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: At Door Control Relay. The door control relay, is located behind the driver dash speaker.
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: At Door Control Relay. The door control relay, is located behind the driver dash speaker.
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Black/White Or Black
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At 2-Pin Plug, Top Of Fusebox
Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger, Requires Relay
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire (-): Green/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Black
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Diagnostic Connector. The diagnostic connector, is located on the passenger inner fender near the fuse/relay box.
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Green/White
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): N/A
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

I just spotted this, hence the late solution. Perhaps this will help someone in the future.

Yes it is possible.

Observe the color code of the insulation of the wires.

1) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts

2) Red wires are 5 Volts

3) Yellow wires are 12 Volts

4) The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire

5) All Black wires are Ground wires. Doesn't matter which Black wire it is, it's a Ground wire.
(It isn't a Common wire. This is DC electricity, not AC)

These are your main voltages, and wires to be concerned with.

Fortunately all HP, (Or any proprietary computer manufacturer in that time period), did, was to change where the wires are placed in the 20, or 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.

They just moved the wires in the socket holes, didn't change the color code.

Solution is,
1) To remove the wires in the ATX power supply, main power cable connector
2) To remove the wires in the proprietary computer's ATX main power cable connector.

(NOTE*
BE SURE to make a concise, clear, drawing FIRST, of where the colors of the wires went in the proprietary connector, BEFORE you remove them!)

3) To reinstall the wires into the proprietary connector.
(Again. Following the color code of the wires you removed)

Removing the wires out of the 20, or 24-pin ATX main power cable connector:

Observe these photos, of a 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector. This procedure can be applied to a 24-pin ATX main power cable connector also. (Or a 20 + 4-pin ATX main power cable connector)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

(Also gives you information about the color code of the wires)

The middle photo shows you a view of the Front of the connector.
The photo to the right shows you the Back of the connector.

Where the wires go down into the connector is a Socket Hole.
At the end of each wire is a metal pin connector. A Male pin connector.

This metal pin connector is shaped like a tube on the end, and comes up to a square shape as you go up.
The square shape fits the square socket hole.

On one side of the square shape is a Tang. It's part of the square metal shape, and sticks out away from the square shape.
Resembles a barb on a fish hook.

In this crude illustration, let a small L represent the side of the square shape, and this forward slash - / represent the tang.

l/

This is an illustration from a manufacturer that supplies this type of metal Male pin connector,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002092166_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

A needle with the proper thickness so it won't bend, is inserted into the Front side of the socket hole, and is used to depress the Tang.

If you look down into the back of the connector, and into an individual socket hole with a bright light, and a magnifying glass, you will observe that the square socket hole has a small notch in one side.
This is where the tang slides down into.

It isn't easy to see from the front side.

The tang is depressed using the needle from the FRONT of the ATX main power cable connector, and the wire is removed from the Back side of the connector.

The metal pin connector's tube shape only goes up so far, then it turns into a square shape.

The socket hole in the connector is shaped to match. Tube shaped hole at the front of the connector, square shape coming on up to the back of the connector.

The square shape's corners, of the metal pin connector, keep it from coming out of the Front of the ATX main power cable connector.

The tang keeps the metal pin connector from coming out of the Back.

More information about the color code of the wires in an ATX main power cable connector, (Scroll towards the bottom of the page)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply

Ok everyone,

If your looking for an answer for this I hope this helps.

The connector on the back of the Duraband receiver is the same design as the connector used on
most computer power supply connectors for the motherboard.

You can cut off the old connector for the PC power supply, and then cut off as many extra pins as
needed so it will fit into the back of the receiver.

Only thing is you will need to re-label each wire according to your old harness that may be damaged.
If ANYONE has the existing harness, and would like to tell us which pin goes to which color, this would be great. Most of the receivers have a color code on the case bottom, but it doesn't identify which color corresponds to which pin... please help...

Randy