Question about Hotpoint RSA21 Compact Refrigerator
Hi - I have a hotpoint RSA21 that is hardwired into the appliance socket so it cannot be turned off. After a year the freezer door became loose and did not seal, so the motor ran too long and the fridge burnt out. I have been given another RSA21 which is second-hand and the freezer door is also loose on this one. Is this a known design fault with this type of fridge? Should this type of fridge be hard-wired in so it cannot be switched off to defrost? How would one maintain/defrost this fridge in this instance? And left to its own devices in this type of situation, should the auto-defrost run properly and prevent ice-buildup without needing manual defrosting?
I recommend curing the loose door first, to prevent the unit from over-working. Does the door latch with only a magnetic catch, or does it have a mechanical mechanism? If it has a mechanical latch, it can likely be adjusted 'inward' for a tighter seal. Some of the older units had seals that were prone to 'flattening'. I had one that basically needed "re-alligned" properly after a thorough cleaning. Mine had a sticky (like syrup) material on it that caused it to bind on the hinge side- preventing it from moving slightly as the door closed, and thus the opposite side was left with a gap (allowing cool air out and moisture in). I'm not understanding the point of hard-wiring at all. If it has its own "frost-free" system, hard-wiring won't prevent anything. If you're worried someone is going to get 'ambitious' and defrost it manually, I'd suggest posting a sign suggesting they mind their own business.
Posted on Apr 11, 2017
Yes, it SHOULD do it auto, but depends on conditions in the freezer (overpack, etc ). I would have a plug added to the cord instead of hardwiring to wall.
a hack for seal issues is vaseline on seal.
Posted on Apr 08, 2017
Can you hear the compressor running? Is the fan inside the freezer running? It could be that a wire connection has come loose during the move. Was the fridge laid on it's side during the move? If so you probably have compressor oil restricting the refrigerant system. If compressor and fan are running you will probably need a qualified refrigeration tech to check it out.
Posted on Oct 03, 2007
bulmer...it takes about two days to fully defrost these units unless you take the freezer section cover off and use a heat source. If you do...be sure to protect yourself against water and electricity mixing....not healthy. See below for another note.
clean the condenser coils below the unit.
check for the amount of gas in the unit. It must be off for half an hour. Remove the back fiber panel. The big thing is the compressor. Clean off the largest pipe coming out of it. Plug the unit in...watch out for the fan! The pipe should frost up and then clear off or stay wet after about 5 minutes. It should not be frosty. If it is, you need refrigerant.
Note: If you do remove the inside freezer panel and defrost, you can see how much refrigerant you have in your unit. Start the unit. Wait 5 minutes and observe the coils. They should be evenly frosted end to end. If approximately so, you're good. If not, you're low on gas.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
SOURCE: Hotpoint FFS70 fridge/freezer
water keeps appearing beneath salad bin we have checked to see that nothing has come into contact with back wall of fridge ,and we have used a straw to keep the defrost gutter drain hole clear but water still appearing beside gutter drain hole .
Posted on Mar 02, 2008
SOURCE: ffa70 hotpoint fridge freezer
Adjust the temperature control for the freezer to a normal setting. Fast freeze is only for when new products are put in that need to be frozen. This locks the system into a continuous run mode and could be responsible for the freezing condition in the refrigerator section. Check the temperatures with a thermometer as the sensor for the freezer temperature could be bad causing the light to come on.
Posted on May 18, 2008
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