Burner replacement I have recently replaced the original cast iron w/ ss burners. The control valve nozzle does not quite reach the venturi. This problem is exacerbated when hot, the metal expands and the nozzles pull away.

http://www.getsiked.com/add-ons--parts.html

Try calling them.

My guess is you are not talking side burner:
http://www.cookinglazy.com/sikes/side-burner-143631.php

Universal replacement: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Replacement-Cast-Iron-Burner-540-0006/206338586

Although converting the fuel in a typical barbecue is very simple it can create a very dangerous problem if done incorrectly. Many bbq companies do not permit fuel conversions because done with a know-it-all attitude instead of getting experienced, licensed assistance can be dangerous.
The "nozzles" are the gas orifices and the orifices have a small hole drilled to limit the maximum amount of gas flow into the burners. The orifices are almost always threaded to the tip of the control valve where the valve inserts into the burner venturi tube. Occasionally the valve will have an extension gas line between the tip of the control valve and the burner and in this instance the orifice will be at the end of the gas line where the gas connection slides into the burner.
This is the same in side burner range tops but in a side burner the orifice can usually be accessed by lifting the round shield and burner on the top of the side burner instead of following the gas line from the valve.

Dynasty burners are replaceable and they are very good appliances (when they're actual dynasty, manufactured by jade).
About 90% of the time someone complains about burner flames or heat it is the check valve needing to be reset. I explained this earlier but let me know if you need to know how to do this.
On the rare occasion the check valve is not the problem (and 90% could actually be very low because this is almost always the problem!) the burner could need to be cleaned or replaced or the gas orifice and valve could need to be cleaned or replaced.
Dynasty burners are very heavy cast iron, single venturi "H" burners. Although coated cast iron is quick to oxidize and sometimes because of the coating the rust will start from the inside out. Lift the burner from the back of the barbecue and slide it away from you. Check to see if it is corroding from within.
The single venturi tube extends from the bottom of the burner into the control panel where it slides over the gas orifice at the tip of the control valve. It is possible for the gas valve to get a small insect crawl in through the orifice and build a nest inside the small cavity inside the control valve.
Remove the burner to reach through the inner firewall with a ratchet to pull the orifice and then check the inside of the orifice and the inside of the valve behind the orifice. If something is clogging the orifice the gas will flow unevenly and you may have flame-flashing inside the control panel which will destroy the lubrication in the control valves and will destroy the ignition parts inside the control panel.
I suggest the check valve solution with the drip tray removed so you can look from under the control panel for gas leaking through the air holes in the venturi tubes. Also, remove the control panel and leak-test the valve with soapy water because if previous flashing occurred the first casualty is usually the seal between the valve and the gasket which can lead to more leaking gas.
Check valve:
Turn everything off (tank and bbq).
Disconnect hose and regulator from LP tank.
With tank disconnected, turn the BBQ on. Turn every valve to "high" and leave it for 5 minutes.
Turn everything off -- completely off.
Reconnect tank but turn the tank on very, very slow. The check valve problem occurs when gas "hits" a swing arm too hard as the gas leaves the cylinder so turn the cylinder on very slow and then relight the grill.

Do not attempt to do this task yourself, you should call a Gas Safe engineer to solve the problem.

Sounds like the Venturi Valves on the burner may be partially clogged and the flame is big firing around the burner orifice. This is fixable, but requires removing and cleaning all the burners and their venturi valves.

One other thing it might be, and this will depend on how old the grill is and how well cared for the grill is. The burner's manifold may be leaking. That's a more serious problem, that requires quite a bit of work to replace.

Go with the first solution first and if the doesn't solve the problem, it will be the second one.

Hope this helps you troubleshoot and solve the problem.

That is correct. Viking no longer supports the Cast Iron Burners. There is an aftermarket Burner VIKU1 that comes with mounting brackets to convert older Viking Grills that used a Cast Iron Burner to be able to switch to the stainless steel burner. The large bracket attaches to the center tube and has two screw holes and screws for mounting to the rear of the housing. The two smaller brackets mount to the two holes at the rear wall of the housing and create a ledge for the end of the two tubes to rest on.

the plate as you call it is in most cases part of the burner , unless you have a parts list you may just get that one part

This 'adjustable plate' is known as an 'air shutter' located at the tips of the venturri tubes which are the tubes that carry the propane from the valve to the burner. These air shutters allow you to control your flame by mixing oxygen with propane to create a yellow flame to a blue flame. The perfect flame is a uniform blue flame with a small yellow tip.

Unfortunately, these air shutters are considered part of the burner itself and cannot be individually replaced. However, if the burner and venturri tubes are separate from each other, you may be able to get a replacement venturri tube without having to replace the entire burner unit.

Hope this helps.

Ben

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

there are two types of burners in a charmglow ss tubes which have a screw at the top of burner the other is cast iron and it is pinned in at the top underneath you have to feel to find it and it just pulls out it can be rusted in but most of the time you can break them off with pliers

There are aftermarket cast iron burners available for approx $64.95. Otherwise, the OEM burner is a Dynachrome which is a chrome plated cast iron that is almost $300. I do not believe that the cast stainless is still available.