20 Most Recent Viking VGBQ410-3RT Grill Questions & Answers


If you do not hear a clicking sound then the ignition module may be bad.

Viking... • Answered on Aug 02, 2017


That is not really enough to tell us what you need. We repair a lot of Viking model barbecue grills and stock all the various ignition parts. As Viking changed fabrication strategy the appliances have gotten much better through the years. An electrode purchased today for a Viking will not look the same as the original electrode but the new, longer, double-pronged electrodes work a lot better, are built a lot heavier, last a lot longer and cost less than the originals. The only difference between the module and electrode and button architecture in a Viking when compared to any other high-end grill is the inner firewall. Between the control panel and the inside firewall inside the grill where the burners connect to the valves, there is a second firewall designed to hold-off heat damage created by certain problems (usually resulting from poor assembly after cleaning). The new Viking electrodes are long and thick but the back-end is also long which makes sure the electrode wires are far away from the heat of the firebox. Other than that the 9volt module, button and electrodes are no different from any other high-end grill. We do have exploded schematics of where all the grill parts belong in a Viking so contact us if you want copies of this information.

Viking... • Answered on Feb 10, 2014


From what you are describing, it sounds like your rotisserie burner may have a bad thermocouple. You can order the parts from Viking, the igniter for the left main burner will require you to remove the front panel to replace, but is fairly straight forward after that. To replace the thermocouple, you will have to fish it down from the burner and under the grill to behind the front panel, not hard, just time consuming.

Viking... • Answered on Nov 12, 2012


Lynn, the problem lies with the gas regulator and the way you turn the tank ON. But it's readily solvable.

1. Turn the tank valve OFF & disconnect the hose from the tank.

2. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank.

3. Open the tank valve VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow).

4. Once the valve is fully open, light the burner farthest from the tank first and set it on HIGH.
Does the flame height look correct? If so, light the remaining burners the exact same way.
Do all the flame heights look correct? If so, your solved the problem. Always remember to
open the tank valve Very, Very Slowly.

If that didn't solve the problem, you will need to replace the grill's Hose/Regulator Assembly. They run about $30.00 at any hardware store or home center that sells grills and accessories. Simply take you old one with you for comparison purposes.

Hope this helped you troubleshoot & solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Viking... • Answered on Jul 06, 2011


Hi- did you change the gas valve to LP?

Viking... • Answered on Sep 24, 2010


I would suggest first lifting them out, give them good brush with wirebrush, check if holes are not clogged, check for any not surface damage, they ususally rust bit over on the surface and that is all.

If grill flame is working correctly, and grating have still "decent" thickness and is not falling to pieces, I would still use them normally.

Rust on the grate is usually caused by not using it and exposure to rain/water, as this grating is usually rather solid, surface rust will not affect it. If you have model with stainless graing - there should be no rust on stainless...

That is one of the reasons why you should not wash your grill after use! Fat from cooked food is protecting it from environment.

Hope this will help your worries at bay :-) Enjoy your grill!

Viking... • Answered on Aug 08, 2010


Manufacture's put this information in a variety of places, check the back of the cart/grill, check inside the door, check the underside of the grease pan, and then, pull out the grease pan and get down on your knees and check up above where the grease pan slides in. Hopefully, it will be in one of these places.

Viking... • Answered on Jul 13, 2010


You are having a common problem with gas grills. Click on my username and scroll down my profile to find my tips and tricks for trouble shooting common gas grill lighting issues. Hope one of them helps.

Viking... • Answered on May 16, 2010


Do you have the manual? It should tell you that info in there somewhere.

Viking... • Answered on May 15, 2010


Hi

Did it behaved the same way when it was on NG or the issue started after the conersion from NG to Propane. Be certain you are pressing the battery ignition button (T-Series only) corresponding to the burner you are lighting.

Open the hood or remove covers. Push and turn the control knob until the “HIGH” position on the knob aligns with the indicator line on the control panel and continue to hold in the knob. Press the electronic ignition button corresponding to the burner being lit. You will hear a clicking sound. After the burner lights, hold in the control knob about 5 seconds longer or until the burner remains lit. Turn the control knob to the desired setting. If the burner does not light in 4 seconds, turn the knob to “OFF” and wait 5 minutes before trying again. This will allow accumulated gas to dissipate.

After several failed attempts the burner can be lit with a paper book match using the flash tubes. If you have just attempted to light the burner with the ignitor, allow 5 minutes for any accumulated gas to dissipate.

Please see this instructions manual for more details to fix this problem with your viking grill --


Viking Gss Grill VGB (T-Series)


Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee


Viking... • Answered on May 17, 2009


If you ermove the control panel on the fom you should be able to slide the gas manifold back a little thus putting the nozzle into the burners.

The manifold has a couple of screws at the sides

Viking... • Answered on Mar 05, 2009


That is correct. Viking no longer supports the Cast Iron Burners. There is an aftermarket Burner VIKU1 that comes with mounting brackets to convert older Viking Grills that used a Cast Iron Burner to be able to switch to the stainless steel burner. The large bracket attaches to the center tube and has two screw holes and screws for mounting to the rear of the housing. The two smaller brackets mount to the two holes at the rear wall of the housing and create a ledge for the end of the two tubes to rest on.

Viking Grilling • Answered on Aug 02, 2017


If the ignitors make a sharp snap or click when you press them, then you don't need batteries. Try to clean the tips of the ignitors (carefully). On the other hand, if the ignitor is an electrical pushbutton (often rubberized) that doesn't make the clacking sound, it's electric and needs batteries. Try to (gently) unscrew the pushbutton assembly . Grillmakers often hide the battery inside.

Viking Grilling • Answered on May 30, 2015

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