Crystal-like deposit inside viewfinder. Can I remove it? And prevent from returning?

If the crystal at the bottom of the clock is not turning in the Seiko model # QXM394BR, there are a few potential solutions to try:

1. Replace the batteries: If the clock is not getting enough power, the crystal may not turn. Replace the batteries with fresh ones to see if this resolves the issue.
2. Reset the clock: Try resetting the clock by removing the batteries and pressing the reset button, then re-insert the batteries. This can sometimes resolve issues with the clock mechanism.
3. Check for obstructions: Check to make sure that there are no obstructions preventing the crystal from turning, such as a loose or bent part.
4. Contact the manufacturer: If none of the above solutions work, contact Seiko customer service for assistance. They may be able to provide additional troubleshooting advice or offer repair services.

It probably has mineral deposits inside from the water. This build up of mineral deposits prevents the water from heating up to a high enough temperature. So instead of hot steam, you get hot water.

In order to replace the crystal on your watch you are going to have to remove the entire movement and use a watch press to remove the crystal.
this is not an easy job and should be done by a professional
First you will need to get a watch back opener to unscrew the back of your Tag. The three slots should fit into the back of the watch. tighten the opener until it is firmly on. then turn counter close wise until back of case comes off.
Next you will need to remove the watch hand and crown. Becareful doing this for pressing to hard will break your set leveler. You will need a thin pin pusher and look on the back of the movement for an arrow pointing toward a hole in the movement. Push down and at the same time pull the stem and crown out of movement. turn the watch right side up and the watch movement should fall out. Place movement on a very safe spot so not to damage movement or dial
now you will you be ready to remove crystal Since it is a friction crystal you will need to do use a watch case press . find two die that fit exactly the watch and crystal use a scooped side and place it on the bottom side of the watch press. Next use a flat die to place on top of the case press. place the watch face down. you will be pushing the watch crystal out from the top. Press down on the level and check to see if the crystal came loose, keep doing so till the crystal comes out.
finally you will need to measure the thickness and diameter of the crystal and find the exact size. I believe this watch has a sapphire crystal so you will need a sapphire crystal too.
Once you buy the proper crystal it is time to put the it in the watch. Place the watch face up in your watch press. and slip the crystal in through the top making sure its perfectly even all around. Slowly push down on the leveler until proper pressure is applied and the crystal snaps in.
Now you have new crystal . Clean crystal thoroughly and the inside of the case. Place watch upside down carefully place movement back in. slide spacer in . Now slide watch stem and crown back in push down again on the set leveler with pin pusher.
Place case cover on back and tighten properly to prevent water or moisture from entering and you are done.
This repair should be done by a professional especially on such a nice watch. Any watchmaker can do this job and will have the tools to do it properly

First, the "r06" message is NOT an error code. It indicates the number of shots remaining in the internal memory buffer, before the camera must prevent additional shutter actuations so that it may transfer those images already in the buffer to the memory card. This "r" number will decrease with each shot taken in rapid succession until it reaches 0. The shutter release will no longer work until the buffer is transferred to the memory card, then shooting may continue again.

As far as not being able to even see through the viewfinder, it sounds like something may be obstructing the light from reaching the meter and viewfinder. The problem is most likely the position of mirror inside the camera body. With the lens off the body, the mirror should be plainly visible at about a 45 degree angle to the opening. A side view drawing of this is below. The solid red line is the mirror in the normal position. The red dashed line is the up position of the mirror when the shutter is released.



When the mirror is in the "normal" position, the light from the lens is projected on a screen so that the image is visible in the viewfinder for composing and can be metered. When in the "up" position (when the shutter release is fully depressed), the light from the lens is projected on the camera's sensor for as long as set by the manual settings or program; based on ISO, aperture, etc. At the end of this time, the mirror returns to the "normal" position.

If your D100's mirror is not in the lowered 45 degree angle position, the image seen in the viewfinder is inside the camera - not that which the lens would project. Hence, the dark viewfinder, long exposure times and - I'm guessing - severely overexposed pictures because way too much light is striking the sensor because the meter is only seeing darkness.

If the mirror is ok, with the lens removed from the body, look for the aperture lever as shown in the yellow circle in the picture below:



By default, the aperture is at minimum. The camera moves the lever from this position to full open (and anywhere between) as needed. You should gently move the lever to the other end of its travel to open the aperture to maximum. Point the lens away from a light source but preferably at a light colored background. Look through the lens. There should be no obstructions and be clear. Next, look at a dark colored background to find the same results. If you want, you can even allow sunlight to shine through the lens onto a sheet of paper (like a magnifying glass). The result should be a bright circle with no obstructions. Obstructions in the lens will prevent the meter in the camera from getting accurate information about the scene and if significant enough, prevent viewing through the viewfinder.

You may wish to have the camera & lens professionally cleaned and serviced to repair a mirror or lens issue.

If this was helpful, please rate it as such. Good luck!

Vinegar is very good at removing scaly deposits. Heat white/clear vinegar just as you would normally heat the water for your tea. After heating the vinegar, pour out and rinse thoroughly with water. If there are still deposits after this first attempt, use vinegar once again. Once you are satisfied that all the deposits have been removed, heat water in the tea pot 2-3 times to remove any smell or taste from the vinegar (before using for tea).

First remove the battery. wipe off the battery contacts. reinstall the battery. Battery may be weak, replace.
If that fails, remove the lens. See the mirror in there?
If its stuck in the up position, you can return it by hand. But I recommend a toothpick. It won't leave fingerprints.

From Weber.com Don’t worry, it’s not paint. The inside surfaces of our grill lids are not painted, they are coated with baked-on porcelain enamel which cannot peel. What you are noticing is a deposit of grease and smoke that collects during normal use. During use, the grease and smoke vapors slowly oxidize into carbon and collect on the inside of your lid. This deposit will eventually peel, and looks very similar to paint. The peeling normally starts in the center of the lid and spreads outward. It may come off in sheets or flakes, and is shiny on one side and dull on the other. These carbon deposits are non-toxic. But you might want to regularly remove the build-up. Fortunately, the peeling is easy to remove. Simply brush off all loose particles with a brass brush before you start grilling. To prevent future build-up, after every grilling session, while the grill lid is warm—not hot—wipe it with paper towels or a mild soap-and-water solution.

If you turn on the back LCD, the electronic viewfinder will remain on while in a shooting mode. There is no setting on the camera to use only the back LCD monitor while shooting. If you playback images in the Play mode, only the LCD monitor will turn on. However, if you press the Monitor button while in the Play mode, than the back LCD monitor will turn off. The image will display only in the viewfinder LCD.

If you turn on the back LCD, the electronic viewfinder will remain on while in a shooting mode. There is no setting on the camera to use only the back LCD monitor while shooting. If you playback images in the Play mode, only the LCD monitor will turn on. However, if you press the Monitor button while in the Play mode, than the back LCD monitor will turn off. The image will display only in the viewfinder LCD.

If you turn on the back LCD, the electronic viewfinder will remain on while in a shooting mode. There is no setting on the camera to use only the back LCD monitor while shooting. If you playback images in the Play mode, only the LCD monitor will turn on. However, if you press the Monitor button while in the Play mode, than the back LCD monitor will turn off. The image will display only in the viewfinder LCD.