No chlorine being produced

If you can remove your generator try and bench test it. Fill with pool water and do a chlorine test. Run the generator for a few minutes, unit should produce bubbles when the cells are turned on. Run another chlorine test and make sure it is higher than original test. You should also test your combined chlorines to make sure you don't have excess chloramines in the water. Also check for any buildup on the generator plates which should be acid washed, and verify salt concentration.

Yes, what is your stabilizer level? It should be between 30 and 50 ppm. If the stabilizer is too low then the sun will cause the chlorine to dissipate faster than the chlorinator can produce it. Some salt chlorinator manufactures recommend 80ppm but that reduces the chlorine efffect. If you can't get the chlorinator working then using a floating tablet chlorinator is a good option to keep the pool open. I hope this helps.

You have copper in your water ... the CL bound immediately with the copper and iron to make your water green. Get a sequestering agent and apply according to the container instructions (the lower the CL, the better). Run your filter 24 hours for several days to clear the metal out. Back wash the filter then introduce CL to 5 ppm

your pump has nothing to do with chlorine generation.
You need to get a salt test kit that reads in #'s not colors.
Now get your salt to 3000ppm or as close to it as you can.
The amount of salt reccomended in the manual is just a starting point
any lower than 2800 and you will not produce enough sanitizer and over 3600 and your pool can go cloudy, taste bad, and rust metal parts

first of all your problem is a few things combined.
First lets learn what consumes chlorine
Heat,sun,rain,sun tan oil 3 of swimmers

you may need to run your generator 12 hours some nights it all depends on what kind of day it was and what the chlorine was to start with

Also if you do not have your salt as close to 3000ppm as you can then you are also not generating enough chlorine even if you are not triggering an alarm for low salt


you can not be below 2800 and no higher than 3800ppm
a test kit is available get the strips that reads #'s not the color strips for salt reading

Also you should be using a chlorine stabilizer to help hold the chlorine level this is only a help situation. it will not completly remidy your chlorine level going low if all the elements I mentioned are happening at the same time

Also be carefull not using the pool that is the worst thing you can do. You may go green quick without people in it stiring it up

I also recommend you use a non foaming algaecide every 5-7 days just follow directions for your gallons of water

By the way bromine tests are really not for pools they are designed to work with the hot water and chlorine level of a hot tub
your ph is fine, about in the middle alkalinity is what drives your ph so worry about the ph level and chlorine and you are good to go

get a salt test strip kit
you want to be as close to 3000ppm as possible let system run on filter only for at least 24 hours before trying to generate chlorine

First of all you should not have set it to generat chlorine until straight filtering for 24 hours. unplug then plug it back in
88 will appear let your salt disolve by filtering only for the 24 hours then proceed to generate chlorine

It may look disolve but there are many hot spots that need to get distributed eveny

depending on the type/brand of salt cell/system you have I would recommend turning it to its lowest setting or off. Most salt cells don't measure chlorine level and will keep producing even if its crazy high. Most cells produce chlorine at about 8.0pH, so it will keep raising your pH as it generates. I would leave it off for a couple of days, get control of your pH and keep measuring your free chlorine level until it's acceptable. If you need to lower your chlorine level quickly you can use sodium thiosulfate to do so. You will have to add acid frequently to compensate for the salt system. Keep an eye on the TA as adding alot of acid will eventually lower your TA as well. Hope this helps.

You can test if the 8110 is generating any chlorine by taking a water sample directly at the pool return. You can invert your container so it stays filled with air until you have it positioned in front of your return. Make sure your test chemicals are not expired and test the sample. You should get a high reading if the 8110 is producing any chlorine. If it is producing chlorine, you may want to make sure you have the correct level of Cyanuric Acid. In my pool, if the Cyanuric Acid level is low, the chlorine level drops to zero quite quickly.

If the sample indicated your 8110 is not producing any chlorine, I would check to see if you have approx. 24V DC between B+ and Gnd on the screw terminal strip on the main circuit board. The transformer supplies two voltages to the 8110. One voltage powers the electronics and the other powers the electrolytic circuit. So it is possible for part of the unit to work if one voltage has failed.

Salt is sodium chloride, you can only measure salt levels now as your CL (cloride) is bound to a NA (sodium). Table salt =NACL, Your Intex system will tell you if your salt level is too high or too low but your old test equipment for free chlorine will continue to tell you no chlorine as it can't react with the chloride any longer as it is bound to the salt. That is why they tell you you never have to add more because the salt stabilizes it. Your chlorine is there it's bound to the salt. Use the pool it's fine and it makes your water feel really soft! Just keep the salt level right and your fine> It's confusing as they call the unit a chlorine generator! I had the same issue, called Intex and they told me the above.