if the wires are correctly installed, and tight. then you may have a bad pull chain switch. good-day ! but first turn off electric, and see if the wires are not loose and the wire nuts are tight behind light.
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This is just a matter of take the cover off, taking out the strain relief and getting a new cord of the same thickness or the same cord is just jut and then soldering the ends to the places in the unit where the old cord went and then fitting and remounting the strain relief. I have done it on all kinds of decks many times in 40 years.
if the wires are correctly installed, and tight. then you may have a bad pull chain switch. good-day ! but first turn off electric, and see if the wires are not loose and the wire nuts are tight behind light.
If the AC plugs worked, I would stay with the them, and use the same gap. .060 gap is a lot, especially for an old ignition system. If you keep the Champions, gap them to .045. Personally, I never had any good luck with Champion plugs. I normally use only Autolite. The new Autolite Iridium gapped at .040 should make a big improvement as compared to the Champions.
Ok so, L (line) N (Neutral) and E (Earth ground), and no idea what this rose is. I suppose you mean Junction Box when you say JB. You can use the original junction box for the wall switch connector, but the Black and white wires coming from the switch must be disconnected from power to be used, if power is already present in your light's original junction box (which is usually the case when using a pull switch light). Then you connect the white and black wires to your wall switch and use them to break the circuit at the light itself by wiring it between the light and the power lead.
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