Refrigerator problems 2-door freezer door stuck will not open

Turn off the power to the refrigerator/freezer by flipping the appropriate switch in your breaker panel. Alternatively, unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet.
2
Open the freezer door. Remove any items from the shelf directly under the light shield, then remove the shelf.
3
Press down on the top, front edge of the light shield until the locking tabs slip out of the slots. Swivel the light shield downward slightly to release it. Pull the shield out of the freezer compartment and set it aside.
4
Turn the light bulb counterclockwise to remove it. Insert the GE replacement bulb into the light socket and twist it clockwise.
5
Reattach the light shield by sliding it into place. Gently push the tabs into the original slots.
6
Insert the shelf into the freezer and reload it with the frozen food removed earlier.
7
Close the freezer door. Restore power to the refrigerator by flipping on the breaker or plugging it into the wall outlet.

unplug from the outlet before this,,open the door,unscrew from behind the door seal,take off the plastic inside door,then unplug everything and then unbolt the hinges

Hello James;

My name is peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

It is not uncommon, especially with the flex mold type ice makers to have a ice cub jam the operation. I have gone on many a service call to find this the problem. I suspect over a period of time the vibration of opening and closing the bottom freezer door may have jarred it loose. Your rocker arm may also have been stuck.

It is not common but possible that the ice maker water solenoid valve spool may have been stuck. I would check this by gently tapping on the solenoid valve with a tool. It may have freed itself once again over time through normal operation vibration.

I had this problem also. My problem was that the drainage tube that keeps the refrigerator compartment dry was plugged up with the foil backing used in the freezer compartment. This foil backing is used to line the closed cell foam which insulates the defrost heat fins from coming in contact with the plastic back panel. It took a service call from a local repairman two times to unplug the line. We peeled off the foil lining which was the source of the plug.

This solution stopped the "door open"/"instant freeze" cycle sound. My fridge is about 6 years old.

Hope this helps. Best wishes!

Hi Terry
Sounds like the freeze got locked...most freezers come with a door lock and a key...use your key to try to open the latch
Bud

You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

Hi!!! You seem to have a seal system problem..A leak of refrigerant or a restriction in the seal system..Good luck...

if thats the case should be an apparent wire off, somethings shorting directly to ground. the chest freezer has all of its wiring behind the access panel on the side of unit , no other wires in machine id look right there for something obvious

I noticed that my refrigerator, kenmore freezer, and stove were all not on. This has not ever been a problem before, so I unplugged the surge protector and reset the outlet. I then plugged the refrigerator and the kenmore freezer to the surge protector and I noticed when I plugged the kenmore freezer it just shorted the surge protector. I then just plugged in the refrigerator and oven to the surge protector with no problems. I tried to plug kenmore freezer to other outlet and same result "a short

if the alarm is sounding its probably trelling you the freezer is at too high a temperature. plug it in and leave it plugged in, it can take several hours to re freeze