SOURCE: Samsung LN-S4051d power supply board
The replacement of the power supply is quite easy. You will have to remove the base if applicable and the back cover, once you remove it; you should see the power supply.
Click here to see how the power supply looks like and availability or Click here to find a cheaper one.
I can also repair your power supply. If you need further assistance you can write to [email protected]
SOURCE: I have a Samsung LNT4665FX with screen problems. I
To solve this type of problem, you need a piece of white chalk. Draw a line around the area where the set is at. Call a priest - and lay the poor thing to rest!!!! This isn't the first time Samsung has "dropped" junk onto its' customers. Their dvd players also had problems with their DSP I.C.s that would over heat and cause the video playbacks to "break up". Don't waste any more time or money on the product!!!!!
SOURCE: I have Samsung UN46B8000XFXZA LED TV. After power
Yes based on your testing it appears that the power supply is at fault solely and you can opt to attempt a repair or replace it altogether. Unfortunately you will not be certain that the main board does not also need to be replaced until you have repaired the power supply.
SOURCE: Samsung power supply & IP board BN44-00264B &
For anyone else with this problem...I ended up getting a replacement transformer from ebay and swapping it out myself.
You have to remove the back panel of the TV, unplug the board from the harness going to it, unscrew the board (both via the set of screws going directly through the board and the set going through the plastic piece on the opposite side that, as far as I could tell, the board is glued to). This plastic piece (running the length of the board) has receptacles for the backlight bulbs, so be gentle getting it in and out. Don't forget the screw in the middle of the board.
De-soldering was a little tricky. My soldering skills are not great, so maybe it was me. But it certainly seemed to be a little challenging to get it all out. Having so many terminals probably didn't help (a capacitor would have been easier). Eventually though, I did get it out. Soldering in a new one was easy. Be sure to check continuity between the terminals of the new part and other parts of the board using the traces as a guide once you're done.
After that, simply re-install the board and put all hardware back in. Like I said before, be sure you re-engage the receptacles of all the backlight bulbs by pushing down at each notch on that plastic part of the board.
Hope this helps someone else...
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