Chamber is igniting, 4 lights come on, chamber shuts down about halfway through heatup and lights start blinking and shuts down. changed fuel, put new screen , new igniter and cleaned burner chamber out and vacuumed out all dirt and dust, tried to restart with same results. Cannot get main fan to engage.
SOURCE: mpi monitor 422 heat problem
I had the same problem last night and this morning. Its in the manual. I had to take the fan off of the back and vaccuum out all of the dust/lint that built up and it was a lot. It is a safety feature. It's a overheating protection feature that usually triggers if there is build up in the fan, front vent or vent pipe to the outside. I hope this helps.
SOURCE: Heater Burner ignites but main blower motor will not turn on.
it sound like the blower motor may be seizing up. try spining the blade by hand to see if it feels free or not. the motor could be trying to turn but can then tripping itself out on overload. (most motors have built in safety overloads which will trip during an overcurrant event. aka too many amps.) you may have to replace blower motor
SOURCE: goodman gmpn100-4 ignitor lights, burners don't ignite
1 blink is ignition failure
without being able to do voltage checks
i would reccomend checking your igniotor, if you can put an amp meter on it, it should read 2.6-3.4 amps
if you cannot do that, Or check voltages I woudl repalce the igniotor, gas valves do go bad but very few and far between....
at the risk of a bad rating you deserve at least an answer...
if i were called to your house with this complaint I woul not bother comming with out the ignitor
just because the igniotr looks likes its hot,, it may not be hot enough to safely open the gas valve
SOURCE: Ruud furnace Model URKA A030jK08 Code opt 589
sounds like the circuit running to your condenser powers your furnace. when u disconnect power to the furnace it will reset and run the blower on startup. check the tube connecting the vacuum switch to the induced draft motor. maybe a leak. good luck
SOURCE: 80% ducane furnace makes several attempts to
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Check for 24 volts across the gas valve terminals!
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