The door wont close.

is the door closed correctly, there is a pin that locates when the door is closed, this may be misaligned.

I m working on a rational oven CMP61. I repaired the Fan Motor PCB but led light this blinking 7times with motor installed on PCB. Without motor installed on PCB led blinks 11times.
What must the problem give some hint or guidance.

Roger, does lights blink when attempting to close door?? If so it is the photo sensing eyes. Be sure they are not blocked and properly lined.
If all is ok, replace the photo sensors. Hope this helps

Press and hold for 3 seconds the lock button on the wall control.

I, PRESS THE REMOTE THEN UNIT START TO BLINK THE LIGHT. ALSO IT WORK WHEN HOLD THE MANUAL SWITCH TO CLOSE AND OPEN THE GARRAGE DOOR.

If the door isn't fully closed it won't automatically lock. Our's was improperly installed so it really had to be closed hard to get it to lock. To re-set it can take up to 90 second's,the door has to remain locked during this time.Unplugging the unit may re-set it. the door Hopefully this will help out.

Check that the lamp door is closed all the way. There is a saftey switch that closes from the door being on all the way. If not the status light will keep blinking. There is also a switch on the air filter door.

Is your door open or closed? If you release the door is it easy to open and close manually? Does the opener run with the door released?

The fault code (4 blinks) is informing you of an issue with the infrared sensor that detects an obstruction in the path of the door.

It is ether misaligned or an issue with the wires leading to it or its faulty.

If the red beam is present at the sending unit (affixed to the doors frame), then it should be aimed at the receiving unit (affixed to the opposite frame) If the beam is received then there should be a green indicator light illuminated.

Good luck
Aduz

Anytime a door opens and/or closes by itself I look for a smashed wire between the motor unit and the wall button.

If the wire is smashed the insulation becomes so thin that power will leak thru the insulation and activate the door.

Loosen the staples with a small screwdriver and slide the wire about ½ inch to move any areas of thin insulation away from the staples.

The second thing would be a bad wall button or a remote with a sticking button.
Or a remote in someone’s purse that gets the button pushed by other stuff in the purse.

The test is to disconnect the push button wires at the power unit. If the self operation stops you have located the problem. If you reconnect the wires and disconnect the wire at the wall button this will tell you if the problem is the wire or the button.

This can also interfere with remote controls

HOPE THIS HELPS