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Works fine on calm days, but it is March now. Spark is present, pilot orifice and tub are clean, but positive pressure in the flue evidently overcomes the tiny pilot orifice
I did not read anything in the book about a "pilot flame control". My unit only has pilot for a few moments during the lighting process. The ignitor lights a pilot that lights the main burner. My ignitor voltage was also below .9 volts, and the book says it requires no less than 1.3 VDC, so I have ordered a new electronic control box under warranty. Thanks for your input
Mike WengerI did not read anything in the book about a "pilot flame control". My unit only has pilot for a few moments during the lighting process. The ignitor lights a pilot that lights the main burner. My ignitor voltage was also below .9 volts, and the book says it requires no less than 1.3 VDC, so I have ordered a new electronic control box under warranty. Thanks for your input
Mike Wenger
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Some water heaters do not have a pilot light. Instead they use hot surface igniter rod that glows red hot The igniter rod ignites the gas after solenoid valve opens and gas flows to combustion chamber. The igniter rod and heat sensor have to be operational, and have to be positioned correctly for ignition to take place. If igniter rod is not working, or if heat sensor does not detect flame, then gas solenoid valve shuts down and water heater does not heat water.
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sounds like the generator has packed up. check water flow and clean any filters on the water line. you will need a service agent to check milli volts on generator and power pack
I would first make absolutly sure that I had all air bleed out of gas line to water heater. If you are trying to bleed air out thru pilot assembly this can take a long time because the opening in pilot orifice is very small. To speed up process if you have a union close to unit or flex connector,you can slightly loosen fitting till you can hear a little hiss of escaping air/gas. When you first smell gas immedieatly tighten fitting. Before you do this make sure there are no standing piloy lights or other sources of flame in the vicinity. When you smell gas and tighten fitting back up try to relight pilot to water heater.If you still can't get pilot to light I would remove pilot line from gas valve and burner. Check to see if you can blow thru it, visually inspect pilot orifice, and if blocked I would get a orifice cleaning tool from hardware or welding supply store. Be careful to select the right size for your orifice and clean it. Reinstall and try to light pilot again.Hope this helps. Thanks
Does the unit light manually with a match while the igniter is trying? If it does the problem may be the same as on my personal Bosch 1600H:
I can't guarantee this will fix yours, but it did fix my Bosch 1600H:
I have positively identified the cause of my problems and know how to fix it. It was TOO MUCH DRAFT ON WINDY DAYS. I opened the side of the seven inch diameter tee that goes to my old conventional heater, and it lights every time regardless of wind.I held a paper up to the open side of the tee and it sucked up and closed the opening and stuck there from the suction.Evidently I had so much draft that the little bit of gas from the pilot was being sucked right up and out of the flue before it could light. I will re-do my vent to leave an opening to prevent suction from being concentrated in the Bosch.Our tests with this idea have yielded a perfect ‘firing record’!
Add a tee to your flue (you will have to cap it or add an elbow to take it below the outlet of the tee before using the heater, but it needs to stay open for a couple quick tests). Take a flat sheet of typing paper and see if it will '****' to the open branch of the tee and remain there. If it does you may have too much suction (draw) in the flue. The strong suction does not allow the gas of the pilot to light before the gas is dissipated up and out the flue. With the paper removed (SIDE OF TEE OPEN TO THE ATMOSPHERE) test to see if your heater lights every time. If it does you have the cause--TOO MUCH DRAFT. Add an elbow pointing down to the side of the tee. If you want you can put another 1-foot piece of pipe in the bottom of the elbow, but it really only needs to grade up to the flue that goes out of your house to keep flue gases from entering your home.
We just proved this today with my heater, and I am SO HAPPY ABOUT IT!
it sounds like the flue pipe out side may have something blocking it , it has a fresh air return on it and when the unit is blowing out it also pulls in the outside air, make sure ther is nothing in the way making the air circulate back in,
I found that the solution to my issue of not igniting was due to a bad pilot electrovalve part #8708501249. It was about a $50 part that was bad from the start. Really disappointing that Bosch's QA would let a such a defective part ship. I spent about 3 years of using a workaround with a fan blowing air to get ignition until it finally failed. I had a tech look over the system to point me in the right direction.
I did not read anything in the book about a "pilot flame control". My unit only has pilot for a few moments during the lighting process. The ignitor lights a pilot that lights the main burner. My ignitor voltage was also below .9 volts, and the book says it requires no less than 1.3 VDC, so I have ordered a new electronic control box under warranty. Thanks for your input
Mike Wenger
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