Clock doesn't work

WG1573 is 240Volt clock motor.
The white wires on clock motor generally connect to terminals 1 and 3, but they can be moved to accommodate different wiring objectives, depending on the timer and voltage being used
Copy following links for troubleshoot, and to see correct wiring for T100 series timers
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
Add a comment saying if this is a new timer, or older timer that stopped working recently. Describe the timer in detail, including how many screw terminals and where each wire is connected. Include voltage of pump, and describe the circuit breaker controlling circuit.

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

99% chance the Timer wires are reversed ... and line from breaker and line to pump are reversed. Or remotely possibly the circuit is 240V, and somebody changed clock motor on old T101 from WG1570 to WG1573, converting old T101 into T102...
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T101
Add a comment with what you discover

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

T104M is 208-277 timer mechanism that fits inside any Intermatic enclosure.
If voltage is not correct, then clock motor will not operate.
Since you did not say what voltage, I assume you have 240Volt pool pump.
Open following link to see the many ways to wire this timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
It is possible that you have the Load and Line wires reversed.
Line wire come from circuit breaker, and Load wires go to pump.

If the T104M mechanism is part of a control panel with more than one timer, and/or a freeze control, then re-post question with more specific information.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Sounds like you lost power to the timer. Look in your electric panel for a tripped breaker. Turn it OFF then back ON.

Timer that worked before and stopped working: could be clock motor or trippers
New timer installation: possibly the wiring from breaker box and wire to Load are reversed.

Open following links to troubleshoot Intermatic timer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

if the timer dial isn't moving then the motor has died check this link to be sure the wiring is ok, you can also get a new motor from them if thats the case http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

Are you sure wiring is correct.
If Line wires from breaker box are reversed, the clock motor does not get power, so clock does not rotate.
Separate wires and turn power ON, and then test each wire to bare ground. Tester lights up on Hot wire.
Then test Hot wire to each other wire except bare ground wire, and tester lights up on Neutral.
On the wiring diagram, Hot wire is L1, and Neutral is N

Also check voltage of clock motor. If unit calls for 240V and your line wires are 120V, then clock does not rotate.

Intermatic site is down this weekend and I can't access manual to see exact wiring.

Add a comment with more details.
Intermatic site will be up again tomorrow and I will look at manual and post on this thread if needed.

T104 is 240volt timer.
Timer has terminals A 1 2 3 4
T-104 clock motor must receive 240Volts to operate.
Clock motor wires are white-colored and can be seen connected to terminals 1 and 3.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Back-of-WH40-2b.jpg

There are two work-arounds for using T104 for 120V.

1) Diagram 1 showing how to change wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-120V-Load-500.jpg
Move 240V clock motor wires to terminal 1 and A.
Connect 240V Hot leads to terminals 1 and A. This will power the 240V clock motor
Hot wire going to 120V load connects to terminal 2. This wire will be turned on each time timer turns on, and 120Volts will power the 120V load.
To complete 120V circuit, neutral wire that comes from neutral busbar in breaker box connects to 120V load.

To control additional 120Volt circuit, run jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3.
Connect Hot to second load to terminal 4.

2) Second method is to change T104 timer into T103 timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-120V-Load-2-5.jpg
Replace T104 240V clock with identical 120V clock motor from Grainger
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Time-Clock-Motor-1PNK1?Pid=search
Neutral wires connect to terminal A.
Hot wire from Breaker connects to terminal 1
Hot going to Load connects to terminal 2

To control additional 120Volt circuit, run jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3.
Connect Hot to second load to terminal 4.

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)


Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

the white wires that come from the clock need to be connected to both of the "line" terminals. If you have them connected to the "load" side, it will cut power to the clock once it turns off and it won't turn on again... hope this helps...