20 Most Recent Jl Audio 12W3 Car Subwoofer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

this is quite a common fault with speakers that have been detached from their original frames or position and replaced. it is possible that when you removed it, you might have mishandled it and in the process it got broken. but, then again, it might be due to a wrong wiring or connection. the things to watch out for are these
1.carefully open the casing and go through the connection to ensure it is properly connected.
2.if there is anyway you can extract it and test it with an external device to confirm if it is still functioning, do it.
3.look around the surface for any marks like tearing, breaking or similar marks to ensure it did not burst.
4.go through the settings on your player to make sure that it has been configured to output audio through that speaker as some systems might give you the option of disabling the output of sound from setting speakers.
lastly, if all the above doesn't help, you can get professional help from a qualified expert and know what was wrong with it. please get back to me on how far you went with this issue. thank you and hope this helped you? please rate

I can assume that phantom 1500 is a 1500 watt amp? but still the amp will have more than enough power to push a w6, w7,and even in pairs. Single w6 can handle 600 watts rms, thus you will need to turn the gain all the way down so that the speaker won't over powered and that can lead to breaking the sub.

Hi, this is a common thing... you need to use a OHM Meter and check if it has "Blown"and gone "Open Circuit".
If it has, then it can be replaced, you can Re-Coil/Cone the speaker no problems one simply has to find a place that does it. The costings are NOT too expensive either.
IF a Voice Coil has burnt out, you also need to check, that Amp output, too. As sometimes when the voice Coil " Blows", the Amp channel "Blows" too.

In playing the math game in audio, I would recommend wiring them in series. This way you can take them down to 3 ohms and still maintain a usable impedance on the amp. Plus you'll get the added benifit of actual usable output.

Taking most amps into a higher impedance (in parrallel it would be 12 ohms) you might over stress the amp (trying to get reasonable volume from your setup) and then trip the MOSFETs (or whatever their using today). Not that this will ruin the amp, but repeated tripping of the current reading ICs will eventually render the amp useless.

All being, most car audio is designed to be stable at 2 ohms anyway. My biggest peave with that is that sonically, 2 ohms slaps the speakers instead of driving them, not to mention limiting the actual headroom.

Hope that helps...

jl didnt make w7 svc but i will include a wiring schematic from jl for the w7......http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=145

It sounds like you may have the speaker in the box wired out of phase. It is important that subs be wired in phase. Try switching one of the wire sets from one sub (put the + on - and vice versa.) Only do this for one of the speakers. If the connections are inside the box, you will have to get in there to do the change.

jl500.1

recheck your wiring in the subs, sounds like a polarity problem. you can go to rockford fosgate.com and check there wiring wizard.

Definitely check grounds and all other wiring. Next I would take a look at the amp. Possibly going bad internally.

The "pop" that you hear when turning off the system is caused be the amp not shutting down clean. This can be caused by several things -like a poorly designed or built amp. It can be caused by a poor chassis ground cable, poor line voltage coming into the amp, or a malfunctioning amp (if it didn't used to do this before). It may also be caused by the line-out signal coming from the head unit. If the head unit has a problem with the pre-amp section and sends the "pop" signal to the amp, the amp will just do what it's told to.

I would recommend starting with making sure that you have a solid power and ground connection from the battery and to the chassis. Next, I would try turning down the amp's gain if it's set too high and see if that helps.

if you cant see a physical cut or **** in the rubber surround or anywere else you can try to check the wires going from the plug to the actualy speaker itself on the back of the speaker if those are fine then its probably blown if its not that old you can try and contact jl and see if they will replace them i know kicker has some kind of replacement system in play not sure of jl

try epoxy. just go to home depot and get the lightest two part epoxy they have. make sure you put enough on and give proper time to dry.

it sounds like ther is a problem somewhere. double check the wiring going to the subs. if one wire is out of phase it will make it sound like no bass... also try pionting subs toward the tailgate. this will make the subs sound better.it could also be the box. jl audio woofers like sealed boxes.

if you can try to solder it back into place.

Depends on what kind of music you like, however I wouldn't go too much above 100 Hz. I have one of these and I run my sub channel from my deck at 80 Hz. Subwoofers are meant to reproduce low frequency energy, anything else is just going to be dissipated as heat, which is bad.

You need to wire them according to the limitations of your amp you can pull a 1 ohm overall load just by connecting all of your coils in parallel- or you can get an overall load of 4 ohms by wiring each sub individually in a series configuration which will yield a 12 ohm load per sub -and then wire the 3 sets in parallel which will bring your ohms back down to 4. You can do a lot with that many coils it depends on your amp really-ideally a 1 ohm stable class d mono amp that is 1000-1500 watts rms would knock the **** outta those things JL is the good stuff.