Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, something is for sure still energized after it is satisfied. I would think it would be on the control voltage side, like a contactor coil or relay. What I would recommend if you are able, is to go up top to the condenser and remove the cover. With the unit satisfied at the stat, listen to see if you can find the componant that is still getting power to it and you will know. If it is nothing above, my guess it would be in the controls on the indoor unit. More then likely, I would say you will find your problem part up top. Please keep me posted on this. Let me know what you find. Something is still getting power to it. With the unit satisfied, am I right to say the hum is not coming from the breaker its self? Just asking.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

the 30amp breaker is bad but when running on a 20 which is good its not enough of amps to support thats why it ran for 2hours before it ..so try changing that breaker to a new one

The drains for that will be between the upper unit and the roof of the RV. You only have an inch or 2 to see under there so it's pretty hard sometimes, but you should see little round button like things sticking down from underside of the roof AC unit. They have holes in them, and can usually be unplugged with a stick, or piece of wire. If you can't get them cleaned out, you will have to make sure you shut breaker(power) off to unit, and remove the cover by taking out the 4 big Philips head screws. That will give you access to clean out holes in base of tray for drainage. If your getting dripping inside when unit not running but raining outside, then gasket will need to be changed.

If coils are clean, or have been cleaned recently, then check your discharge side of unit for restriction. It may require you to take down ceiling assy, to be sure that there is nothing blocking the duct work inlets, if it is a ducted system. Also if ducted system, make sure you don't have too many blocked/shut off. As well you should have a freeze probe, or round sensor in the coils at front where intake filter goes over, (evaporator) to sense the frost, and kick compressor out until it thaws. When was the last time the evaporator and condenser (rear) coils were cleaned?

need to remove unit reseal and reinstall.

Please get back with model number of unit. You should be able to see it when you take filter access down from ceiling, and it should be tag on bottom of the upper unit. Has heater worked before? I'm asking because many advertise that you can use for heat as well, but heat strip/coil, is always an option, and quite often isn't even installed.

Your A/C not only cools the air but it also removes the humidity from the same air it is cooling. The moisture collects on the evaporator coil and drips down into a condensate pan where it eventually will drain out of your your unit. The pan and/or drain will eventually fill with debris and moldy slime that will prevent it from draining. The water has nowhere else to go but down. You will need to locate your drain pan and drain and clean it out thoroughly. Also make sure your air filter is clean and in place and check the evaporator coil for cleanliness. Clean it if necessary.

Hope you find this to be very helpful moving forward. :-)

MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING A WELDING TYPE ELECTRIC CORD MOST OF START UP PROBLEMS ARE BECAUSE OF THIN ELECT CORDS OR 15 AMP PLUGS. PLUG IN WASHER PLUG WITH HEAVY CORD. IF COMPRESSOR IS NOT STARTING YOU CAN USE RUBBER SLEDGE HAMMER. HIT COMPRESSOR AT SAME TIME YOU TURN IT ON .MAKE SURE COMPRESSOR AND STAT IS SET TO COOLING AND LOW TEMP YOU SHOULD HERE HUM FROM COMP. THEN HIT IT TO BREAK LOOSE. DONT MISS.

Either a problem with thermostat, or perhaps faulty start relay for compressor. Do you hear a "click" or a slight "hum" or both when switch to cool?

Start capacitor sounds faulty. It stores higher voltage for start-up.

you need a 20 amp breaker the full load amps on that unit is 16

GO TO rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t finCOLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
d the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers.

COLEMAN R.V. AIR CONDITIONER SERVICE AND REPAIR QUESTIONS

GO TO rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t finCOLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
d the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers.

GO TO rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t finCOLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
d the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers.

COLEMAN R.V. AIR CONDITIONER SERVICE AND REPAIR QUESTIONS
COLEMAN R.V. PRODUCTS
GO TO rvcomfort.com
Click on RVP (RV PRODUCTS)
Click on type of AC, if you can’t find the information you want there,
then click on contact us on the Green Bar.
You can get Service Support or Email address and Phone numbers.

You need to find the evaporator coil on the a/c. This is the coil on the inside of the unit not the one on the roof. This coil will be sitting in a pan. This pan is the condensate drain and in one area there will be a drainage tube this tube is blocked. It will not be easy since the a/c is so compact however, if you contact an r/v dealer he will be able to tell you where the drain hose comes out of the r/v and once you find where the drain hose comes out of the r/v you can use a wet dry vacuum to create suction and remove the clog.

Good luck hope this helped
Dave

Your fan may be overheating.
Here are a few things you can check yourself:
- make sure the air filter and the coils are clean
- check all electrical wire connections for tightness. Be sure to shut off the circuit breaker to the unit. Check all connections.
- look for anything out of the ordinary....burnt wires, burnt wire connections, overheated controls, etc.
After doing all these things, if you continue to experience problems, your fan motor could have bearings that are failing or the capacitor (if applicable) could be weak, or you might have a control problem.

I hope you find this information to be very helpful in your quest for truth. ;-) Let me know if you have any further questions.

50 foot extention cord not a problem IF it is at least 10 gauge and plugged in to a 20 amp circuit

Your compressor is shutting down for a lack of AC voltage would be my best guess

From the bottom

A burning smell could indicate an electrical problem (something overheating) or, if the unit has electric strip heaters that have not been energized for a long time, the buring smell could be the dust burning off of the heaters.