Top 20 GE JE1640 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

I have this oven, and had the same problem..only after a time it got worse..eventually all the buttons did not work. The problem is the keypad itself. It is very easy to change. Remove the 3 screws along the top of the oven. Then the vent pane will slide to the right. You will then see 1 screw holding the entire keypad assembly. Unscrew that, and the keypad will angle forward. There are 5 connections holding it..unhook all of them (you might need to, write on a piece of paper where they go)..BUT, you can try this first, reconnect the ribbon to the keypad by sliding the locking plastic up and then slide the ribbon out..then reinsert it back down as far as it will go. Push the locking plastic back down. Reverse the the screws back..and try it. If it works great, but it may not last. You can order just the keypad (here's the issue, it costs about $171) and replace it by removing the 4 screws holding the circuit board over it. The new pad just snaps into place, reattach the new ribbon. I think the problem is because the steam when cooking goes right to where the keypad is. My oven is over the range..so now I use the vent fan all the time..hope this helps. If you need better instructions..search YouTube with you GE model and the words replace keypad.

Check for an oped circuit on the high voltage fuse,if that is ok,the magnetron will need to be replaced

Hello.

Thanks.

When you smell something wire is burnt..The first that needs to check is the inside wiring.You need to open the back portion of your oven to further see whats the problem behind..You can unplug from the source and using a MULTITESTER.Check both terminals setting yuor TESTER to OHMS value.If the TESTERS pointer moves a little it means its not short-circuited ans if otherwise moves to its maximum amount it means it is short-circuited that needs to be repaired..Wiring might have been burnt.If you gonna continue using it it might lead to further complications of defects.Try to check the motor that turns the turntable..check the heating filament.hope this helps.

Hi, in most cases it's not actually cooking, but instead the fan, turtable and light may be on. Yet it does need attention.
What this usually means is that you have a shorted door switch or a bad door switch mount.
It's easy to tell if it's actually cooking, just place a cup of water inside and see if it heats.
If so, that could mean a stuck relay on the control board.

Thank you so much for the info. The WD 40 worked perfectly on the door and my microwave in not turning on every time the door is opened. This info saved me time and $. Thanks

This is due to grease or food particles stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the metal of the cavity or waveguide is charred or chipped, the area will first have to be sanded smooth and cleaned and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Home Depot.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARRAMOUNT!

Attempt this only if you are competent.

If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

wrwt

With the model number, we can offer more specific advice or an estimate.

But since FixYa does not notify us of follow-ups, you will need to post a new help request.

You probably have a bad door switch or door switch mount. See this file on door switches.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If a switch is all you need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can order here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer

With any luck that is just the 20 amp line fuse mounted inside the cabinetI have for you a GE advantum service manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Owners of a GE WES model might want to look at this blog post.

LOOK HERE;

http://www.serenitysys.com/******/archives/GE%20RV%20Microwave%20manual.pdf

1.6 cubic feet

The most likely thing is the magnetron has 'died' but there is a high voltage fuse between the capacitor and the magnetron which may blow. Either way, repairs to microwaves are dangerous and should only be undertaken by a qualified repairer. PS I have seen a mouse cause this problem!

The "RESET" indicates that there was a power failure. You should be able to push the clear/reset button and then set the clock and be on your way.......

This is a common symptom of a failed magnetron, or defective wave guide assembly. The price of a new magnetron is about $120. The waveguide (if defective) cannot be purchased without buying a new unit. Your choice. Do you think its worth repairing? You can purchase a new magnetron, but if the waveguide is damaged, the unit will still exhibit the same symptoms you are experiencing. Its not often that I give advice NOT to fix something, but in your case, it may not be the best choice.

A louder than usual humm most of the time is a problem in the high voltage
secondary circuit.
Put all of the primary connections back on the transformer.
Then disconnect the leads from the mag
“MAKE SHURE THEY ARE ISOLATED AND NOT TOUCHING YOU OR ANYTHING IN THE MICRWAVE CASE” then start the microwave.
If the loud humm goes away then you most likely have a bad mag. The excess hum is because of the fact that
the secondary circuit is being loaded down more than normal.
Now if you were to pull the wires off of the mag and you
were to still get a loud hum then you would need to suspect
one of the other secondary high voltage components.
I called is 1-800-437-9283