20 Most Recent Kenmore 53542 / 53544 Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

maybe compresser hi- limit on the compreser.

It has a defrost problem.  Most likely cause would be the defrost thermostat which clips onto the evaporator behind the back panel in the freezer.  Next most common would be the defrost timer.  Third would be the defrost heater.  Let me know if you want to try to test these parts.  If so I will need the entire model # from the sticker in the fridge or on older models on a plate at the bottom front below the door.

did you check the defrost heater and defrost sensor in freezer?mike

there are 2 fan's in the uint one is located by the compressor itself, and the second is loacted in freezer compartment behind hte back wall, it is possible and fairly common that the bearing on one or the other has gone bad causing your noise issue. if it soulnds as if hte noise is coming from the compressor itself, then your out of luck no repairing that item just a replacement and problalby not worth the cost

is the freezer fan working?is there frost in the freezer on the walls?can you find the defrost timer?let me know and we can go from there-mike

How do I remove the ice/water dispenser front cover assembly

Tell me,the filter is it brazed on or is it on with a copper nut?
If you fix a filter remember that silver solder gets real hard if its exposed to cold air the hole time.

Let me know and i can help you with this problem..

Regards....

There is a button on the right side you have to hold down to remove it
It can get kinda frozen so you will a little resistance
LB

Look at the hinches of the doors,there should be 2 bolts on a hince...

Loosen the top ones if its hanging at the top, or the bottom ones if its hanging at the bottom.

Just get some one to hold the door in place then tighten the bolts.


Good luck...

This can be bad door rubbers but also the de frost heaters...
You should open the fride inside at the back and see fi the heaters dit not brake, also check the timer,thermostat,and the fan.
The fans realy importand,with out it working your fridge would turn into a ice maker.lol.

Let me know if you got it fixed....

Good luck.

Peace Friend,
ngfam1 At your service!

There are many parts in this component that may be the culprit .
One or more will need to be replaced.
This is not easy to diagnose. I've seen service order parts 2 or 3 times till they completed the ice maker repair on a side by side fridge!
Usually it is outside air leaking ever so slightly through the ice door hatch!
Even for the experienced teach some times he may have to try a couple of part replacements, because it is not always visible with the eye!
If I were there hands on it would be fixed and better now!

You need a hands on tech for this repair!

Below I referred you to a great service nation wide!
They only charge $75. around here, too!
Which is a very good service charge as things go around the country!

If none of these tasks remedy the ice problem then here is:
A&E Factory Service
A&E has schedulers available to take appointments 24/7
And they do warranty work too, for most manufactures!
1(800) 905-9505
You will be fine
Bless You ngafm1
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING ,BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF

Sounds like you have a defrost problem. Pull the back panel off inside of the freezer and make sure the fan is running (evaporator fan motor). If it is, check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. If one is bad, you have found your problem. If both are good, replace the defrost timer, adaptive defrost board, or main control board (I'm not sure which you have since I don't have your model number). Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

There is a solinoid valve that opens when you push the switch in. It has apparently failed and is leaking. Sometimes taking it apart and cleaning it will fix the problem.

If you are looking for help, one must explain the problem in detail, described properly, for one one the internet to review. For myself, a would require more details of your refrig, to properly explain a resolution. Otherwise a general answer is not worth much. If you have the fully electronic temperature controlled unit, then the components can be easily chedked in 5 minutes, by the on-board service diagnostic computer. One needs to know the general operating knowledge fo the refrig, which is naturally available, since you operated it for some years. Anyway, a layman can check it out by doing what is natural. Since the refrig defrosted, it has shut down. Four years is too short for genral compressor defects. Put the power plug in and check for operating sounds. Just a few seconds. You mentioned smell (outside or inside), ket a paper tube, like a paper towel center, and sniff the evaporator motor, then the condenser motor. I will recheck later, and see if you want to continue, this troubleshooting. Regards fmauka

The start and run windings are the electrical circuits inside the compressor. If you have a volt/ohm meter with an amp clamp it is good to check for shorts, resistance, and amp draw when replacing the relay. If you do not have a meter and don't expect to need one for anything except this repair then just replace the relay and see what happens. If it fails within a short time, then you probably need a technician that is familiar with the model and factory specs to check it anyway.
We have seen a sharp rise in relay failures in the last few years. Most of the time, the relays fail on their own because they are built with cheaper material than in the past. They do not seem to hold up as well to power surges and fluctuations in voltage as older units did. The replacement relays we are recieving are supposed to be better according to the manufacturers.
I guess what I am saying is don't overcomplicate the repair. While I do occasionaly find other reasons causing a relay failure, the large majority of the time it is just the relay that needs replacing.
If you have a meter and are familiar with it, and want to check everything, post the complete model number from the fridge and I will try to walk you through checking it.

I have posted this for information only, not for a rating. You are free to rate it as you like, but if you don't want to rate it as a fixya then I ask for you not to rate it at all since anything else will drop my rating.
Thanks/Mike

It has a defrost problem.  1. Defrost thermostat  2. Defrost timer.  3. Or Defrost heater.

  It is not defrosting.  You have to remove back wall of freezer where frost is and take hairdryer to melt away frost.  You need to check defrost heater.  This is on bottom of evaporator coils.  It has wires going to it on both sides.  This has to be checked for continuity.  If ok on top of coils is a round unit called a defrost terminator.  This needs to be checked for continuity also.  This must be done before you defrost coils.  It should have continuity when its cold. 
  If these are ok you probably have a bad timer or defrost board. 

Relays are located on the left side of the compressor. How long ago did you smell the burning smell? Are you 100% sure the compressor is running? If it is, nothing is wrong with the relays. Although sometimes it is hard to tell if the compressor is running. By morning temps will be higher than tonight if compressor isnt running. If it isnt running, relays must be changed. I will post shortly on how to change the relays.

if you remove the icemaker there is a white cover over the head of the icemaker, pull the cover off. youll see a gear in the center. in the middle of that gear there are two plastic tabs that hold it in place one or both of the tabs may be broken cause a bad conection behind the wheel. if tabs are broken you need a icemaker modual (part the gear is attatched to) if not broken you need a watervalve located on the bottom right side behind the freezer