20 Most Recent Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC 83VR522 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

the heater should be wired with number 10 wire depending on the distance with its own breaker from the panel,if you want another one if you don't know how to put it in you shouldn't be messing with it.

Hi,

Only one of the hot water heater elements will have power going to them at a time...
When the water at the top of the tank gets hot then the top thermostat should switch the power to the bottom one... this may not be happening...therefore you are only getting about a thrid of a tank of hot water...

Electric Water Heater not Working
heatman101

(sometimes) is hard troubleshoot on an electric water heater,possible there is a voltage issue,such as time usage of appliance for cut rate pricing?

To adjust water heater temperature:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

Electric water heater is fully repairable by homeowner with a few basic tools.
If temperature setting is not the problem:
Buy $10 multi-meter from home center and take 30 minutes and do complete troubleshoot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

For example if you replaced elements, but didn't clean sediment out of tank, then the root cause was not repaired by element replacement.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on heater.

You will have to run a continuity test on each element. Turn off power to the heater. Remove the cover from each element and with an ohm meter set to ohms 1000 check for continuity on each element where the power is connected. If you have no reading the element needs replacing.

The first thing I would do is to turn the thermostat up and down several times,wait a few mins. and do it again. Then run hot water until element comes on. Let it run for a few mins and then turn it back to lowest setting.
I never really came up with a good reason why this works some times but I always tried to save money for my customers and quite often I was 30 or more miles to supply house and it was a cheap fix.
I think you probably will end up replaceing thermostat like your thinking so good luck. Thank you.

You have electric water heater.
Electric water heaters are fully repairable by homeowner, excluding hybrid type.

Rheem electric water heaters:
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/electric_water_heaters/
Rheem fury series manuals and models
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619

Age of Rheem water heater is first 4 digits of serial number located on side of tank: for example 0705 means July 2005.
Serial number also shows model number & wattage of elements.

A) If your water heater receives very cold incoming water, it may not heat fast enough to keep tank warm.
Add a tempering tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tempering-tank.html
Add insulation over entire water heater except TP valve. Insulate pipes completely.
Read more information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

B) If cold outside temperatures are not to blame, your water heater may have a bad thermostat or bad lower element.

C) 40 or 50 gallon water heater is 240Volts and tank will have 2 access panels on front.
Rheem ships all water heaters with 4500 Watt elements.

Narrow down the suspects:
D) Water heater has some hot water.
This tells us upper element is working.
And that water heater electricity is working.
And that reset button is not tripped.
And that heater is not experiencing run-away overheating event.

That gives us 3 solid suspects.
1) lower element is burned out. Test lower element using inexpensive multi-meter from Home Depot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace element with same wattage shown on label, and clean out sediment:
This will restore water heater to full 99% efficiency.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad. Replace both thermostats for about $25.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
If you want to test thermostats and all parts before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

3) Burned or shorted wire. Turn off power. Open covers on side of tank. Remove insulation. Inspect parts for signs of high heat and burning. Especially lower element. Tighten any loose wires. Replace part that shows signs of burning.
Put insulation and cover back over thermostats so cooler outside temperature doesn't cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.
Rheem element

A] First of all, we know your upper element is working because you have some hot water:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
It says tank is not overheating.
It says tank is getting 240Volts.
It we know water heater is 240Volts because you have 2 elements.
And it says reset button is not tripped.

B] That leaves 4 suspects:
Suspect 1) Bad Upper thermostat or Bad Lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 2) Burned out Lower element: solution take out element, clean sediment out of tank, put in new element. Steps shown in link below
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 3) Loose wire or connection: solution open covers and remove insulation and look for signs of burning and high heat. Tighten all screws very tight. Replace burned part. Put insulation and covers back over thermostat so thermostat not exposed to cool air which will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

C] Before replacing anything, you can test water heater parts and determine exact cause of problem. Testing requires $5 multimeter from Lowes or Home Depot:
Install battery in multimeter.
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240 or 250 or 277 Volts.
When test calls for testing continuity, rotate multimeter dial to ohms (upside down horseshoe symbol is ohms)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
After doing 30 minutes of testing, you will be expert in water heaters.

If sediment builds up inside tank, it will reach lower element and burn out the element.
That could be problem.
Restore full efficiency to tank by cleaning out sediment and replacing lower element.

E] More reading to preserve tank and save money long term
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

It sounds like you need to replace it, Actual cost can very widrly depending on your location but I would say $350-400 is probably close. Plus installation unless you can do it yourself. Hope this helps. Thanks

you have what is called an airlock in your pipes.

This is one possible solution. Not knowing the type of plumbing pipes you have or where the leak was makes it hard to give you a solid answer. Some people will open the t&p valve to aid in draining water out of piping to facilitate repairs. There is a small lever in the center of the t&p valve that should be at 90 degree angle to front surface of a valve mounted on side of tank. If it's straight out it is open. Push down on lever to close it. If it was opened and then closed it may not have shut off completly due to mineral build up around valve seat.If it is open then close it and turn water supply back on. If it is closed you can turn water supply on and using wooden hammer handle or other light tool tap directly on center of valve. Do not hit it very hard. If it has been opened and failed to seal you should see a reduction of flow rate fromt&p valve. Either way youshould have t&p valve replaced as it should olny open due to extremely hot water which also will cause increase in pressure. Hope this helps. Thanks.

yes bottom 1 bad

You have an element on your water heater.
Your element will not come out.
If it's a Rheem product, the element is held with 4 bolts.
Other brands have a screw-in type element.

Here's a page I wrote about removing stuck screw-in type elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-remove-old-water-heater-element.html

I don't know if this information applies to your situation.
If the heater is full of sediment it might keep element from coming out, but that would seem unlikely.
Look at the photo instructions shown on the link above.

Oct 2010
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Is the water pressure on to the heater? If the water has been turned off the heater will not drain unless you open another valve to allow air to enter the heater as the water drains out. You can do that by turning on any hot water faucet in the house or by opening the safety pressure valve located on the top of the water heater. If that does not release water, check to be sure your hose from the heater is not kinked anywhere. If pressure is on to the heater and water does not come out, you will have to take some more drastic actions to drain the tank. You may have to actually remove the faucet at the drain and dislodge calcium build up in the bottom of the tank. If it is that severe, I think I would just leave it alone rather than take a chance of damaging the unit.

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about how to check your electric hot water heater.

Electric Water Heater not Working

heatman101

They will normally set these at 120 but according to your needs you could go a little more or less but be careful if you go higher of the temp coming out of the faucet with just the hot on. Good luck!

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

Hello Check the red overtemp reset button at the temp control.Check for contintuity at the elements with a volt meter (pull one wire off first) they should have a reading otherwise they are open & shot.Last is overdrawing (busted pipe) shut off the cold water supply for a 1/2 hour and open it back up and feel the hot water supply pipe.Is it hot?The tank can't keep up with the demand.

Brown discoloration is evidence of a rusting or corroded steel pipe somewhere in you plumbing system. Trace the water lines back from the faucet and replace all the steel pipe.
White discoloration is minerals that separate out when the water is heated.
You can change the Anode Rod and it should help. It is not an instant fix, the rod will take a week or two to do its job.
If your water heater is still under warranty, call Rheem, they may replace the water heater free.

The elements do not operate at the same time. They are designed to take turns coming on. Try setting the temperature of the top element 10 degrees lower than the bottom one, turn the hot water on in the bathtub. The bottom element should come on first. When you are done checking, turn the top element 10 degrees higher than the lower for normal operation.