No power no power band

How do you know this is not a mechanical problem with the engine, the car is pretty simple, I assume you have verified the carb slider valve is free moving?

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick. Please rate my answer.

Sounds like you're getting enough fuel (black smoke) Could be running on only one cylinder. Either stuck valve or loose valve adjustment or one bad magneto. You could try starting with one spark plug disconnected. If it doesn't start, reconnect that one and disconnect the other. IF it runs like it was, then you're running only one cylinder, and go to work on finding out why.

Yes, you need to bleed the system. Somehow air has gotten in.
First, fill the master cylinder to the full level with brake fluid. Locate the bleeder valve down on the caliper and get out a wrench that fits it. Then pump the pedal several times and hold it down as you open the bleeder valve. Do not let the pedal back up while the valve is open - or else air will be drawn back in. After a few seconds, close the valve and pump the pedal again.
Perform these steps until normal feel to the pedal is achieved. Make sure the master cylinder does not run low on brake fluid while you are doing the bleeding.

The kips is a power valve.
It moved a little when excellerating to actually change the exhaust port timing as the engine revolutions get higher, to gain more power.
If you say it runs good at full throttle, you valve is working, but it may be slow moving if gummed up.
Also, if your jetting is too rich, it will bog down.

You might try testing the tps. It may have a dead spot at the high end of the throttle opening. Make sure the resistance continues to change as you open the throttle all the way.

Throttle Position Sensor

Operation The throttle position sensor is a rotating type variable resistor that rotates with the throttle body-s throttle shaft to sense the throttle valve angle. As the throttle shaft rotates, the throttle angle of the sensor changes and the ECM/PCM detects the throttle valve opening based on the TPS output voltage.
Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the sensor connector.
3. Remove the sensor retaining screws. Remove the sensor from its mounting.

To install:

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Testing 2.4L Engine

1. Disconnect the sensor connector.
2. Measure the resistance between terminal 1 (sensor ground) and terminal 2 (sensor power).
3. Specification should be 3.5-6.5 kohm.
4. Connect and analog ohmmeter between terminal 1 (sensor ground) and terminal 3 (sensor output).
5. Operate the throttle valve slowly from the idle position to the full open position, and check that the resistance changes smoothly in proportion with the throttle valve opening angle.
6. If the resistance is out of specification, or fails to change smoothly, replace the sensor.

2.7L Engine

1. Disconnect the sensor connector.
2. Measure the resistance between terminal 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 1 (sensor power).
3. Specification should be 3.5-6.5 kohm.
4. Connect and analog ohmmeter between terminal 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 3 (sensor output).
5. Operate the throttle valve slowly from the idle position to the full open position, and check that the resistance changes smoothly in proportion with the throttle valve opening angle.
6. If the resistance is out of specification, or fails to change smoothly, replace the sensor.

1. Disconnect the sensor connector.
2. Measure the resistance between terminal 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 1 (sensor power).
3. Specification should be 1.6-2.4 kohm.
4. Connect and analog ohmmeter between terminal 2 (sensor ground) and terminal 3 (sensor output).
5. Operate the throttle valve slowly from the idle position to the full open position, and check that the resistance changes smoothly in proportion with the throttle valve opening angle.
6. If the resistance is out of specification, or fails to change smoothly, replace the sensor.

3.5L Engine

1. Disconnect the sensor connector.
2. Measure the resistance between terminal 3 (sensor ground) and terminal 1 (sensor power).
3. Specification should be 3.5-6.5 kohm.
4. Connect and analog ohmmeter between terminal 3 (sensor ground) and terminal 2 (sensor output).
5. Operate the throttle valve slowly from the idle position to the full open position, and check that the resistance changes smoothly in proportion with the throttle valve opening angle.
6. If the resistance is out of specification, or fails to change smoothly, replace the sensor.

is your gas tank clean ? ever drain the carb? should every season. check to see if you have correct spark plug and gap. check fuel line for crimp.

I had the same problem on my VL1500. I THINK it gets "flooded" with fuel and then the cylinder is full and will NOT turn. I have used jumper-cables to start the bike when it will not turn over.

I now start my bike with this procedure:
1. Do NOT touch the throttle.
2. Switch on the power.
3. Do NOT touch the throttle.
4. Press the "Start" button and crank the engine a little (1 - 2 seconds)
5. Do NOT touch the throttle.
6. Keep cranking the engine (another 1 - 2 seconds)
7. Open the throttle a VERY LITTLE (approx. 1/10 turn of throttle). keep the throttle slightly open while the engine cranks.
8. Keep cranking the engine and wait for engine to start (another 1 - 10 seconds).

It is still not a perfect start, but at least the engine cranks over now.

Remember that the VL1500 has a "decompression" system that opens the outlet valve for 2 cranks of the engine.

I suggest you FIRST make sure the engine cranks over (NO throttle), and THEN concentrate on starting the big V Twin.