20 Most Recent 2001 KTM EXC 200 Questions & Answers

How do you know its a weak spark? Is this a visual check? Will the bike start with the correct new spark plug? On some bikes, you can hardly notice the spark when looking at the spark plug laying on the head, Try looking at night in the DARK!

yes

Exhaust valves?

How do you know this is not a mechanical problem with the engine, the car is pretty simple, I assume you have verified the carb slider valve is free moving?

1, float may be puntured and sinking in bowl,2 float needle worn and grouved, the needle housing may be worn

but would start fine. I took the head off again too check it out. That is everything loked fine rebvuilt it this time went like a rocket. Couple of mates came down for the weekend rode all day Saturday and was racing with a Gas Gas 200 which it beat. Later Sunday afternon it starts missing tenderly chanbged plug, chewcked carb both fine. The bike did get me home suonding like it was about to run out fuel then would go like hell for a few secvonds before chugging alone again. Seem to go back to what it was like after the rebuild. The only thin I can think of is a electric problem.,I had the carb a part today & gave it a good clean, also droped the gear oil & which was fine. I did think it was the power vale at the very start of the prolbem but as the bike ran like a demon for the best part of two days it can't be that. Finally I stated first kick today and I took it for a rip around the garden. Seemed ok ravin fine not missing then when I was giving it gas in third it would start to miss. I have not got a clue what is wrong with it now and I am not keen to admit defeat and take it to the bike shop at 40 U.S and hour. ,,,

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This is not to bad of a parts replacement. The seal on the gear selector gets a lot of down thrust and has a tendency to wear to a slightly oval shape and leak.
The easiest way to fix is remove the gear selector lever (Mark the position with an awl or nail). Then remove the side case. Ease it off so you don't damage the gasket. You should now be able to pry the old one out with a screw driver. Lightly coat the new one with Loctite bearing mount and gently tap back into place. Replace the gasket if you tore or damaged the old side case gasket.
This should be a simple and inexpensive fix.
If you need more assistance let us know,
Best regards,
TF

The fork seals need replaced you have yo really know what you are doing to do this job yourself

Hi, i presume from your thread you have removed the bolt securing the damper to the leg at the axle end, and you are having a problem removing the stancion from the leg, normaly you will have to remove the fork dust seal from the top of the fork leg, you will then expose the main fork seal which will be secured inside the fork leg by a clip,you will need to remove this, as the bushing inside the fork. Is secured to the stancion underneath the fork seal the only way to separate this, once the seal clip is removed, fasten the lower leg in a vice, warning fasten in the axle area and not the tube area to save damage, once secure push the fork tube all the way to the bottom, then pull up sharpley, repaeting this action will give a hammer effect from the inside of the fork, when reasembling before fixing the damper unit replace the fork stanchion, bushing, washer and seal, holding the tube. Upermost will reduce the risk of damage while replacing the seal in the moving area

yes it is starving for fuel. please put in a larger jet. you may want to go to the 3erd next higher one. remember you can add more air from the mixture screw.

try mixing 50:1 with synthetic it will not hurt rings 32:1 is pretty thick!!!on all two strokes i mix 50 to one never have had problem!Best of Luck to You!!!

G'day jarm.
Hope i'm not to late to respond.
First of all push the valve or control flap as ktm calls it,upwards through the exaust port,turn the pin a quarter of a turn,you can do this with a metric 5x40 bolt,then......SHAAABOOOMM.that valve should come straight.Installation???.Well i guess you can see how it works now,basically the reverse of removal,Just make sure to lube the pin,insert until it engages the flap,then rotate it a quarter(1/4)of a turn.The flat section on the pin must face out toward the exaust port.
Good luck and hope i could help
J STRONGARMS...hehee ..ha haaa!
regards..Silleydog.

It takes a hydraulic press to separate a crankshaft. Beyond that, you must have twin dial guages when reassembling the crank so that the two halves are set in correct alighnment. NOT a job for amatures.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, try to see this link and looking for the manual that you need. https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/manuales/ktm/eng I hope to give you an help. Luca