Wiring loom -soldered crimp joints, HT coil load test ok, other elec components check out with ohm meter to approx values .Only have 87manual.No info on volts to IC Ignitor with ignition on. very light tickle from plug wire on engine crank no plug. I must be missing something as it ran previous to a pressure clean and faulty ignitor unit .Bike would go well then cut out poping and backfiring on restart-week spark. flywheel magnet strong,alternator good rectifier good ,flywheel pulse coil in ohm limits.
You said the motor cut out and popped and backfired when it quit, this is almost always one of two things; either the low speed pulse coil or the actual CDI "black" box. You will almost never lose a main coil. One thing I would also check to make sure did not happen is shearing a flywheel mag key. When the motor backfires you can easily shear a mag key if you have a heavy flywheel, (external). However when this happens you don't usually lose spark but it will certainly cause the backfire.
One other item of importance is that the bike you are in question about does not emit a bright spark when you are checking for fire. Make sure you are using a brand new plug and ground it on the head. Try to make sure you are in a dark environment when you check the spark.
Colours of the cdi do not match the colour on the rest of the loom
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I have the same problem, KLF300 runs fine and then backfires and misfires. It can tick over and clear itself and run well or just stop and be a pig to start. either way its real hard work and depressing me badly
Is that the outside magnet on the flywheel your talking about or the inside magnets?
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