20 Most Recent 2007 Yamaha V Star Custom - Page 4 Questions & Answers

sounds like valve noise to me and i would set the valve lash

substitute of three legs ic number 7812 in yamaha psr2000 keyboard

fox shox but they are pretty expensive

Just make sure the cables are not binding or too short.
Replacing the risers are pretty straight forward.
Remove the four hold down bolts then remove the stock risers. Towel will help here to prevent handle bars from scratching the tank. Helps to have the front wheel straight before starting this process. Install the new risers using the hardware supplied. Be sure to check clutch and throttle for binding BEFORE riding.
If they bind and prevent easy operation you may have to purchase extension cables. Be sure to torque the 4 bolts that hold down the handle bars properly. After a few trips check and tighten again to the proper torque settings. Installed the Baron kick back risers on my 1100 and it took a few trips to get use too.
After that wouldn't take anything for them! Sitting higher and not all slumped over. Nice looking too!

Good luck!
Hope this Helps!

Running too rich or emissions

Battery is under the seat. Buy a battery tender and keep it hooked up when not riding in the winter. If you are in an area of the country where you can ride year round then a battery tender is not necessary. Battery will probably last 3+ years if properly maintained. I owned a 2000 V-Star 1100 Classic and it was a fine bike.

konichi wa-one of the carbs is not producing or the electric not there-chec if float is sticking on bad side-is gas being delivered also-nothing seems to be combusting-inspect that plug n its cable for for contact-library has repair books-sayonara to arigato

Not getting enough fuel, chk fuel filter anf s/F ratio adjustment.

It sounds as if you are experiencing 'vapour lock'.

You could try re-routing the fuel lines away from heat sources (probably not practical on a bike!) or try insulating them.

Google 'fuel vapour lock' for lots more info and suggestions.

Hope this helps!

check voltage when cold and when hot

No special tools.Just unscrew the bolts.Notice that if there is a small bolt facing towards the fuel tank, that is a bleeder bolt.You must run the engine after replacing the filter so that the air gets out of the filter chamber from that small bolt.Unscrew it 3 turns and when you see oil bleeding from it screw it back tight (10Nm).

hey pal, you're confusing volts with amps..your bike will always be 12 volts but your stator/alternator determines how many amps you get...it's an expensive thing to upgrade and change out ( your service dept can probably tell you how much it puts out)....the more things you have running at one time the more amperage you pull.....my suggestion is not to run anything at idle then turn things on one by one as you reach highway speeds where th electrical system is pumping out it's max..shut at least 1 off if your at a stop for any length of time....this will save you a lot of money.....but if you want to spring for an upgrade and it is avail for your ride then go for it....good Luck to you friend.......Tim

That 4 point star you refer to is a large phillips head srewdriver slot w/ hexhead so when you can't get a socket or open end wrench on it you use a srewdriver...even a flatblade screwdriver that fits into 2 points of the 4 will remove them.....Good luck to you friend....Tim

hi dm09diver

the link below will show you where the battery is seated and how it is attached.

please click on the link below and go to page 33

http://www.yamaha-motor.com.mx/Manual_Partes/Catalogos/Deportivas%20(Crucero)/XVS1100%20V%20Star/5YST_2007.pdf

hope this helps,

regards

voodoo

i'm not sure if you are saying how to access it. if you can... just unhook the battery.... attach the charger to it ... be sure you have the polarity correct.... after charging it for few hours.... hook the battery back up.... start up the bike... and let it charge the battery the rest of the way

are you shure the start engine works? see if all cabels are conected

sorry for bad english

Hi, It opens with your key on the right side as looking from the front of the bike. Keep the key turned and pull straight up on the back of the seat. There is a tab on the front right behind the tank, so when you are putting it back make sure that tab goes into the slot first. Wow, when you get the seat off you will also find your emergency tool bag! Good Luck!

Hi there. Float charging the battery is a great idea over winter. You should always remove a battery from your bike or vehicle before charging. They produce hydrogen gas (EXPLOSIVE!!) and can easily ignite if a spark is generated (from the battery charge connection) . I have seen this happen before!! I would be using a constant voltage type regulated float charger to keep it topped up. Unless you can set up the constant current type you mention for a few milliamps of charge only. If you charge it at too high a rate, with constant current, it will overcharge the battery and boil it dry. Float charge voltage of 13.5-13.8 is good for any lead acid battery. Check it every few weeks initially to be sure that it is not loosing electrolyte. Thanks for using FixYa.

regards
robotek

the best way to do this is buy the aftermarket exhaust and keep the baffles in the exhaust and run it for 50 or so mile then pull out one of the plugs and if its gray you are fine if its white or black you will have to rejet