20 Most Recent 2007 Yamaha V Star Custom - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you need a new battery or to clean connections. Bike is not getting enough juice causing dimness and flickering. Hope this helps.

then the carb needs to be rebuilt it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel

The choke is only supposed to be closed when starting a cold engine and during warm up. As the engine warms up, the choke will open. If you try to close the choke on a warm engine, it will starve for air and die. I don't understand why you are trying to close the choke while you are riding. Are you sure you don't mean the engine will not run when the choke is open? If it will only stay running with the choke closed, you probably have a vacuum leak or a gasket leaking causing the engine to run lean. Closing the choke would limit the supply of air to the engine resulting in a richer mixture.

sounds to me that when you put new pads in and the piston went back into calliper that grit and dirt/corrosion on the protruding part piston has caused the piston to jam in the caliper.

Since it isn't constant, I don't believe that it is a serious problem, it sounds like you have an electrical short on your pressure sensor wiring, I'd check to make sure its plugged in good, that the pins inside the plug aren't loose, and then look for places where the wiring may have been rubbed through (on the frame rail, hoses, etc.).

The most likely cause is misrouted/kinked throttle cable(s). Check it by moving the bars side to
side while playing the throttle. If you are positive that the cabling is OK (including the 'choke') then start looking for intake leaks, misaligned slide diaphragms, missing/loose vacuum hoses, etc. --------------- Clogged idle jet, weak fuel pump, or the throttle cable may need to be adjusted.
--------- Begin by adjusting the throttle cable. ---------- As a carburetor gradually gets plugged up with gumand varnish, many
riders will compensate for the gradual loss of idle rpm by turning the
idle speed up a bit with the master idle knob...
Then, when you clean out the carbs, the clean idle mixture jets allow
more gasoline to flow through them, and the engine idle rpm is too
high.--------
The solution to fixing that is to just turn the master idle knob counterclockwise a little bit...
But then there is the problem of "slow-return-to-idle" that isn't caused by throttle butterfly
position.----------
It can be caused by a slightly open starter enrichment valve.There's a small passage
with a valve operated by the "choke" lever, and when you move the lever, the valve opens and the carb pulls gas directly out of the float bowl.
----------- Click this below for more help:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/07/yamaha-motorcycle-engine-wont-idle.html ----------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Could be fuel starvation under load. You may need to pull down the carbs and check for fuel gummuing. This happens if the bike is left standing and the fuel goes stale, evaporates and leaves a residue in the emulsion tubes and jets. The bike runs ok on the primary jet until it needs more fuel from the main jet. Does it smell rich when running? - caused by large fuel drops not airated by the emulsion tube above the main jet. Could also be a coil with a high resistance - compare the coils with an ohm meter - plug lead to earth reistance (make sure you have good contacts for accurate readings).

Has it been wet? - sometimes water will get iinto the jets and sticks in there. This will evaporte and go away but return later when the next water droplet get stuck in there. Drain the fuel (including reserve) and replace with fresh fuel, add carb cleaner (a 1/4 cup of kero/ tank works).

Replace the solenoid switch. the main contact of the solenoid switch must release once the control power is cut-off thru the starter switch.

That is a heavy duty diesel engine oil. I don't think it's rated for use with a wet clutch - but I could be wrong. I can't imagine it would be well suited for a wet clutch, though.

I would not use it. I would make a trip to your local bike shop and see what they stock or get your hands on some Amsoil - I'm not an Amsoil fanatic but they do make some good stuff for motorcycle use.

The trick is to get out there and fire it up every week and run it for several minutes. Short of doing that - turn the fuel off and run the carbs out of gas before storing. Drain the old fuel out in the spring and refill with fresh fuel. You can add some fuel system cleaner/drier to the fresh fuel. Personally - I simply run the bike every week and add some fuel drier - like STP fuel treatment during winter months. I have never been a fan of the fuel stabilizers - unless you are talking about a huge volume of fuel, like on a boat. Running the bike every week keeps the battery charged, too.

Check the shifter to insure it has full throw and no interfence to downshift. If that's ok, you'll need to check the actuator assembly on the shift drum which is under the clutch cover. If that's ok,it's probably a bent shift fork in the transmission

You need to make sure there is no pressure. Install a hydraulic pressure gauge to check. If there is pressure, check the sending unit and wiring. If no pressure check to see if the oil pump is turning. Don't run the engine more than a few seconds if there is actually no oil pressure.

the mixture screw is under the the carby , back it off 1/4 of a turn this should stop it backfireing on deceloration