2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

No it may over stress the wiring, you will need another feed from positive and fit a relay that switches from the high beam

All that is needed is to have the carbs cleaned. It is not really hard but there are a lot of small parts. Clean each carb separately. Don't have more than one carb being worked on at a time. Just be sure you are wide awake when servicing. :-) Please rate my answer.

That is a sign that the voltage regulator is going out or already has. You can test with a volatge meter by starting the bike up and see what the voltage reads at an adle and then at approx 2000 rpm. at an idle it should read 12.75 - 13.50 volts and when reved up it should read 13.50- 14.00 volts.

if it raeds 12.50+ at idle and does not raise up then your voltage regulator is undercharging and will need to be replaced. If it reads over over 15.00 volts at any time then it is overcharging and thats usually when headlights blow and main fuses. Must replace the voltage reulator.

100% sure that is what your problem is and i hope you get her fixed and back on the road soon
Good Luck and Best Regards
Big Al

well you know what your problems is, know start working your way back the line. it's like a maze start at the finish and go to the start, check to see if your getting power at the coils when you put your test light on your wire you should get a pulse in the light when you spin the motor over. if your not getting power at the coils then move on back the maze, worst case your pick up is bad, that means you need to remove oil and the side cover and all that good stuff.
you can go to world of powersports and look up the micro phish for your bike it'll have the part numbers and prices right there.
If you have anymore question please feel free to contact me.
M.Woodring

take it to your loco bike shop get it done right or do it yourself get the proper tools at the bikeshop an if you have changed abicycle tire itspretty much the same but really good riddandce fellow

Check the battery terminals, clean and tight? Check the fuses with a multimeter. Check all wire plug-in connections, including the switch and inside the headlight housing. As you are checking, look for loose connections, dirty and corroded connections and abraded wires. This shouldn't have anything to do with the oil change unless the shop is drumming up additional service work. Ya never know...

likely to be the rocker cover gasket or its loose.

Have you checked the spark at the plugs.

Fist things first.
Check all the terminals, ie battery, solenoid and starter.
Make sure they are all tight and that the earth lead on the starter is good along with the +12v.
Check the fuses.
Then get a meter to check the voltage at each point when you press the starter button.
If ok, you will then have to look at things that cause the starter circuit to not to work, ie
Kill switch, in gear, side stand down.
come back to me when you have done that.

check your charging system components from the grounds, diodes, to the stator/generator and fuses. first check the battery with a volt meter to see if it reads any voltage going back into the battery. that will tell you it is not charging. also if you want a less reliable test, try disconnecting the ground of the battery while it is running. if it stops the system is not charging.
R/R If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ray_6d6dc1dfa6f18dc1

Check the regulator and alternator/diode pack. If the regulator is faulty that could be you problem.

Hello,

The oil you are seeing may very well be from the bike sitting. I have worked on many bikes that have had similar problems. The oil bypasses the rings and gets forced out the top of the cylinder. Once the bike has been used for a couple of days, sometimes a few days longer, the rings expand sealing the cylinder and thus no more oil. It would be a good idea to examine the cylinder bolts too to make sure that the oil is not leaking from the cylinder head.

When a bike, or any motorized vehicle or tool, sits for an extended period of time, parts that are supposed to be lubricated by the motor running will dry out or shrink. This can cause a decrease in engine life and costly repairs. Always try to start your bike, even if you don't ride it, and let it run through the warm up procedure everyday.

Even if the oil leak stops on your bike, you should still have the exhaust leak fixed. Grab the exhaust pipe, when cool :o), and see if you can feel any slack by pulling on it. I would spray a penetrating oil on the bolts, let it sit overnight, and then try to tighten, or replace, them yourself.

Regards,

Oz

If you utilise Ohms Law; Watts divided by Voltage equals Amps.
A 60 Watt lamp draws approximately 60/12=5 so 5 Amps
A 100 Watt lamp draws 100/12=8.5 so 8.5Amps. What about the side lamp, Running lamps and tail lamps. Are they on the same fuse?
15Amps at 12Volts equals an average of 180 Watts total available power,

The float is stuck, try tapping gently on the side of carb. You will probably need to change spark plugs as they are gas fouled. Also check your oil for being over full or a gas smell. If it continues to leak, removal and cleaning of carb will be necessary. Be sure vent line to carb is clear.

You can try adjusting the clutch cable.
There is a lock ring where the cable meets the clutch handle.
Loosen lock ring then turn the knurled knob in or out depending on your "taste". Typically the shop guys make this adjustment far too tight with little to no play at the top first pull of the handle. Adjust to your comfort zone but try to leave at least a 1/4 inch play when you first pull the clutch handle. You can actually feel the clutch disengage as you pull the handle. Too much and the symptoms you describe appear to the problem now. If the clutch is gone it will need to be replaced and no amount of cable adjustment will help.
Good luck!

its in the key

This would run down the battery. So get the alternator of the bike repaired so that it starts charging again. May be the lead got disconnected and there was no need for a new battery.

The main fuse is on the starter solenoid. The rest of the fuses are shown on the microfiche to be under the seat. Probably under a side cover in front of the battery.

it may be the shaft drive winning like the rear end on a truck check the main nut that attaches the yoke to the back of motor

you need to either clean your carbs or you have a valve out of adjustment mine was doing same thing because of dirts carbs hope that sheds a little light on subject