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1988 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R Questions & Answers
Stevie-J my gpz 500s as a fuel starvation problem
check to make sure you have good fuel flow coming fro the lines going to the carb. if it flows well, then you need a float adjustment. there should be a metal tab just under the needle that cuts your fuel off when the carb is full. depending on what style float is in there, it may be just a metal piece or it may be attatched to the float assembly. either way, take that tab under the needle, and ben it DOWN, towards the bottom of the carb. not much though, maybe only a mm. or two is all it would take. move it too much, and your carb will overflow. this will let a bit more fuel in before that needle seals the fuel inlet on the carb, and should fix your problem. when the carb is off, it may also be a good idea to remove the float and needle and use carburetor cleaner or compressed air to blow through the fuel inlet, just to be sure there are no obstructions.
Wires to conect to start no kek
You need to get a good manual. I would go with the factory one, but also available is Clymer or Hayes. Look on E-Bay for some. Hope you have wiring experience.
Change fork seals Kawasaki GPZ 400
If you are not VERY mechanically inclined...and have the special tools required... .please take this to a professional!! it will be less expensive in the long run.!!
It takes some special tools that only dealers have.
I lost my key to
Before you attempt to take out the ignition, call a dealer and ask him if they can get you a key for your bike by using the VIN as reference. Harley and some metrics can do it this way.
No fire to the motor
check coil or wire from coil. could be blown fuse or bad brain...aka CDI in which case you could open it after locating it and possibly discover a bloated capacitor which you can snip off and solder in a new one for 2 bucks. at a radio shack or electronics parts store
Motorbike wont move
sidestand lockout switch is sticking...bike thinks that you're trying to ride away with the stand down so it kills the sparks.
How do u no if ur coil packs are fireing
If you have a wiring diagram, trace out the ignition system this way you trace problems. But you could pull the plugs and put them in the wire and ground it against the head, away from the spark plug hole, turn the engine over and see if it fires, i use a spark tester, but a known good plug will do. If there is no spark then check to see if you have volts at the primary side of coil "the little wires that hook to it test them with the ignition on" if no volts there then begin your volt chace checking all wire and connectors. You will need a multi meter ok. let me know how it goes, just takes patience and time k.
It drives great 1st gear
The cakey, white oil color is water emulsified with the oil. Rainwater, car wash spray, condensation in the tranny, rain water or sprinklers have contaminated the oil. If the tranny will not shift into a higher gear, there is a bent shift fork or two creating the problem. This can be a costly repair and is not recommended for the novice mechanic. Below is a diagram showing how the shift drum rotates to move shift forks left and right to change gears.
Took the carbs off toclean
I would say if you have not messed with the adjutments on your carbs , they are prob ok.
It sounds like if you drain your fuel, tank, all filters, what is left in the carbs
will work it self out, you can remove and drain either way. Go buy new spark plugs and filters
Charge your battery to full charge slow trickle while you working on the other . I am confident that you will be happy with the results .
How can i start a
boost it, it should stay running if the charging system is good, then you can check charging rate
Hi
i got a kawasaki
Kawasaki's are notorious for the waterpump seals going. There are little rubber doughnut seals (3 if i remember) that run along the impellor shaft. When these break down, you get the leak. I would be pretty certain on a bike of this age, that this is your problem. It isnt a massive job to do, but if your not technically minded it can get messy. The shaft is connected by a circlip on the opposite side to pump prop, and should, i emphisise the word SHOULD slide out, once the clip is released. But beware as ALOT of these become siezed and stuck fast, so some more dissasembly may be required. You can try taking off the cover and using a good instant gasket, providing that your running temp is fine, no water in the oil (if your lucky) but these cover seals are designed to pop if there is too much pressure behind them, hence me telling you about the impellor seals.
Hope this helps mate,
Mista B.
Need to clean radiator but
drain the coolant and fill with water and about a half cup of tide powder detergent, run the bike a while and drain, you will have to flush with water several times to remove all detergent before refilling with coolant.
My gpz500s keeps blowing the
assuming it is the correct amp fuse there is possibly a short in the system somewhere.
check for broken wires, often jammed by the steering head, damage to the switch blocks, or the head lamp or tail bulb can short out inside, remove these one at a time and see if this helps
Not finding what you are looking for?
In the above picture inside the rectangular box area to the left of the push rod do you see the many actuator parts that the clutch has to push the rod and disengage the clutch? One of these is broken or has come loose and jammed the clutch release mechanism, you will need to pull the assembly apart and see what has gone wrong, no matter what it has to come apart for inspection. Here is the factory parts site where I got the diagram.
