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couple things come to mind: bad cable or starter has a dead spot. if it starts after hitting the starter with a hammer, you have a dead spot and need to replace the starter. If not, check both battery cables--the ground one that goes to the engine and the positive one that goes to the starter. Sometimes they go bad under the insulation. Could also be an intermittent ignition switch issue. A second test you can do to narrow down the possibilities is to put power directly to the starter solenoid (usually done by carefully crossing the big battery terminal on the solenoid with the small terminal where the ignition switch wire connects using a screwdriver), but make sure the tranny is in park or neutral. If the starter cranks, you know it is a problem with the ignition power not getting to the solenoid and not a bad battery cable.
if your battery isnt dead (try boosting it) then check to make sure the car is in park all the way and try again if nothing happens you need a new starter. alot of people dont put the shifter all the way back to park and that keeps it from starting.
You have a random electrical short in the system and it is on the acc. side of your ignition system.Systems such as interior lights, glovebox light, brake lights, memory circuits for onboard computer, radio and some aftermarket components. Without me being able to see your car it is very hard to determine the cause. First determine that the battery is dead. Its possible that the battery cables have a bad connection, not at the battery but at the starter sol. or the battery cable ground connection on the engine. Clean these connections to see if you fixed it. If not then after that you will need to remove the poss. battery cable take a volt ohm meter and put the black lead to the poss. post of the battery and the red lead to the cable, set the meter to 10 amps BEFORE you hook it up. Then wate until all systems have timed out when this happens the needle will drop. If not then you have a direct short. If it does drop it should drop to less then 2 amps (that is normal) if it is above that you have a drain on the battery. Before you start this test make sure the key is out of the ign. then remove the interior light fuse that way you can open the doors without resetting the timers. Watch the meter and remove one fuse at a time, if the needle drops then that is the circuit that is giving you the trouble. Find out what that fuse controls and repair as needed. Hope this helps. Let everyone know if it did OK
You need to check and see if when you turn the key to start that you get current at the starter soldnoid. If not check the safty switch and the ignition switch. If you get current check and see if it goes thru to the starter if not replace soldnoid if it does check the starter itself. These are all electrical and can fail at any time without any warning. Good luck.
If you banged on the starter motor and it started then you have a stickie bendix drive and solinoid sticking
But if you have to also jump start it as well then do this.....When it wont start before doing anything else turn on the lights and hit the starter and if the lights go dim or go out the battery is no good or you have a short in the eletc ...so take battery lead off for 2 days and if starts you have a SHORTin the eletrics
Is this possible ? Banging on the starter surely jarred either the solenoidm the starter brushes or armature. I've done that a 1000 X with poitive results, and in the end overhauled or replaced the starter. Now you say this has been going on for 2 mos or so, could there NOW be SOMETHING ELSE ( new problem ) like the battery /starter connections, ignition switch, etc causing no power to the starter , Hoping all re-connections are good.
I have experienced this problem before. Fuel pump is going, I had experts trying to fiqure out they all thought starter, alt, etc. until I banged on fuel tank and it started. This may not be problem but it sounds like.