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Re: airconditioner cooling not workign despite three
I would check the system pressure. You can buy a leak detector. I would check all the fittings on the lines, around the compressor, condenser, and evaporator.
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The ancillary belts routing diagram for a 1998 VW Passat 1.8 Turbo
AC = Air Conditioning CS = Crankshaft F = Fan pulley G = Generator PAS = Power Assisted Steering T = Tensioner pulley WP = Water Pump
1. Viscous coupling removal (lock the viscous coupling).
2. Lock the ancillary drive belt tensioner.
3. Lock the coolant pump.
4. Remove the coolant pump drive belt. 5. Remove the ancillary drive belt. 6. Release the A/C tensioner if vehicle is equipped with A/C (Air Conditioning). 7. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt.
sounds like the turbo variable vane is clogged up with carbon, check the vaccum line going to the tubo and try to manually move the linkages on the turbo if they dont move you may need a replacment turbo
Hi before you do an oil change try seafoam in the engine oil. this can sometimes fix the problems you are having, I used seafoam in engine oil and fuel and breather line and ran engine for 100 miles, but don't run hard, and its cleaned all the sump and oil veins in the engine, as checked with a scope looking though the oil sump plug. it did a really good job, my engine is a bit older than yours 1994. oil sensor is at the bottom of the engine on the sump. pressure sensor is above the oil filter it has a single wire conection
Idle is automatically set&monitored with a timing sensor on the camshaft, i found my engine(1.8 20v turbo) would idle low then go high and almost stall sometimes and all i did was remove the fat black pipe on the throttle and clean inside the throat with a cotton rag dabbed in wd40.Hold the throttle open manually and clean on and around the throttle plate as the oil burnt&recycled creates a hard carbon that stops the throttle working correctly.When did you last change the sparkplugs, air filter, oil and oil filter and remove damp from the spark plug area using wd40 on surfaces applied with a cotton rag.These contribute all to your problem.As you dont state milage etc it could be a worn engine or slipped cambelt(1-2 teeth can make a slight diffirence).
The heater may not work because of a bad thermostat, low coolant, or a bad sensor at the engine. It can also be a bad resistor valve under the dash. The resistor valve is connected to a wire plug on the blower motor under the dashboard. It needs to be replaced. Th AC may need to be refilled with refrigerant or the compressor may be bad.
Pricing for the replacement will vary widely based on who does the work, but you'll typically find better prices at an independent shop than at a dealership. When you choose an indie shop though, make SURE they're a Euro specialist. You honestly don't want a guy working on your high-tech turbo engine when he spends his days wrenching on Mustangs and Chevy trucks. As for whether you have to do it - yes you do. The turbo is an integral part of the car and the car won't run well at all (and will likely degrade further) if you don't fix it.
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