Rebuilding 4cylinder Camry.

1. Top end is the replacement of cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve oil seals, cylinder heads resurfaced, and checked for cracks. (Magna fluxed)
2. Bottom end is engine block resurfaced & checked for cracks, Cylinders honed, crank bearing resurfaced/re-rounded, crank rebalance, new crank bearings. New connecting rods, new rod bearings, new pistons, new piston rings, new freeze out plugs, new front & rear crank seals, new oil pump.

Talking about the Buick 231/3.8L - YouTube

? 7:28
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBx2MgVy1V0
Dec 24, 2012 - Uploaded by WhoSaidTyler
I have been told they have a kit for that oil pump which consists of a spacer ring and larger oil pump .... Will ...

GM 3100 V6 rebuild (3.1 litre) - YouTube

? 1:49
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsAMtuTbE5U
Mar 6, 2012 - Uploaded by MET-TECH LLC
New main bearings, rod bearings, camshaft bearings, piston rings, head gaskets, ... oil pan gasket, oil pump ...

GM 3.8L V6 Engine Piston Slap audio with Video - YouTube

? 3:22
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGCg1KHi2NU
Oct 12, 2012 - Uploaded by seriousNoodle
It turned out to be a loose piston and unbalanced torque converter. ... Stats on Engine: 3.8L V6, GM VIN Code ...

It is oil smoke. The most common causes are worn valve guide seals, a faulty PCV valve, or, worn or broken oil control rings on the pistons. Only 1 or 2 cylinders need be at fault.

Check the PCV valve for fouling. Have a compression test done. If readings are low or irregular, pour a few ccs of engine oil into the suspect cylinders thru the plug holes. If compression readings then improve, it is probably the rings at fault.

Less common causes are worn big end bearings spraying excessive oil up the cylinder walls, or a leak from the head gasket, oil to cylinder.

Whatever the cause, the cylinder head will have to come off, so you are looking at some engine rebuilding. If the bottom end of the engine is still good (the pistons and piston rings and bearings on the crankshaft), you might get by with a head and valve job. Not cheap, but cheaper than a complete rebuild. Have your mechanic do a leakdown test before teardown, to pinpoint the reason for no compression in that cylinder.

there should be an internal snap ring inside the bore where the piston stops. you will have to hold the piston against the spring pressure and remove the snap ring with a small screw driver or o ring pick

General Specifications Item Specification
Displacement L (CID) 4.6 (281)
Number of Cylinders 8
Bore and Stroke mm 90.2 x 90.0
Firing Order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Oil Pressure (HOT @ 1500 rpm) kPa 138-310
Drive Belt Tension a
Cylinder Head and Valve Train
Combustion Chamber Volume cm 52?±.5
Valve Seats Width?€"Intake mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Width?€"Exhaust mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Angle 44.51-45.01 degrees
Valve Seats Runout (T.I.R.) Max mm 0.025
Valve Arrangement (Front-to-Rear) (Left Hand) E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I
(Right Hand)
I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Intake mm (Inch) 0.020-0.069
(0.00078-0.00272)
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 0.045-0.095 (0.0018-0.0037)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Intake mm (Inch) 44.5- (1.75)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 34.0 (1.34)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Gauge Diameters mm (Inch) 42.5- and 32.0
(1.67 and 1.26)
Valve Face Runout Limit mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Valve Face Angle 45.25-45.75 degrees
Valve Stem Diameter (STD)
?€"Intake mm (Inch) 6.995-6.975 (0.275-0.2746)
Valve Stem Diameter (Std)
?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 6.970-6.949 (0.274-0.2736)
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Intake 587.14 N @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Exhaust 587.14 N @
28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length ( Approximate)?€"
Intake mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length (Approximate)?€"
Exhaust mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Intake 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Spring?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Exhaust 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Service Limit 10 % Pressure Less @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Out of Square Limit 2 degrees
Valve Guide Inner
Diameter mm (Inch) 7.015-7.044 (0.2761-0.2773)
Rocker Arm?€"Ratio 1.75:1
Valve Tappet?€"Diameter
(STD) mm (Inch) 16.000-15.988 (0.66-0.629)
Valve Tappet?€"Clearance
to Bore mm (Inch) 0.018-0.069
(0.00071-0.00272)
Valve Tappet?€"Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.016 (0.00063)
Valve Tappet?€"Hydraulic
Leakdown Rate b 5-25 seconds
Valve Tappet?€"Collapsed
Valve Tappet Gap?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.085-0.45 (0.0033-0.0177)
Camshaft
Lobe Lift?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Allowable
Lobe Lift Loss mm (Inch) 0 (0)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
End Play mm (Inch) 0.025-0.165
(0.00098-0.0065)
Journal to Bearing
Clearance mm (Inch) 0.025-0.076
(0.00098-0.003
Journal to Bearing
Clearance?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.021 (0.0048)
Journal Diameter (All)
mm (Inch) 26.962-26.936
(1.061-1.060)
Journal Diameter (All)?€"
Bearing Inside Diameter
(All) mm (Inch) 27.012-26.987
(1.063-1.0625)
Camshaft Runout
mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Cylinder Bore
Diameter?€"Surface Finish
(RMS) 0.2-0.6 Microns
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Limit mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Service Limit mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.00079)
Diameter?€"Taper Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.006 (0.00023)
Piston
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Red 1 mm (Inch) 90.177-90.197
(3.550-3.551)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Blue 2 mm (Inch) 90.190-90.210
(3.5507-3.5515)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Yellow 3 mm (Inch) 90.203-90.223
(3.513-3.5521)
Piston-to-Bore-Clearance
mm (Inch) -0.015 + 0.031 (0.0005-0.0012)
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 22.0015-22.004
(0.866-0.8663)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.550 (0.06-0.610)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Bottom)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.530 (0.060-0.0602)
Ring Groove Width?€"Oil
Ring mm (Inch) 6.996-7.224 (0.275-0.2844)
Piston Pin?€"Length
mm (Inch) 61.93-62.05 (2.44-2.443)
Diameter mm (Inch) 21.994-21.999
(0.866-0.8661)
Pin to Piston Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.005-0.010
(0.0002-0.0004)
Pin to Rod Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.040
(0.0006-0.00157)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Oil Ring?€"Side Clearance
mm (Inch) 1.25 MAX (0.05)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.040-0.090
(0.0016-0.0031)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.030-0.080
(0.0012-0.00031)
Oil Ring Snug Fit
Oil Ring?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.015 MAX (0.0006)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Bottom) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Oil Ring (Steel
Rail) mm (Inch) 0.05-0.66 (0.006-0.026)
Lubrication System
Oil Capacity?€"Automatic
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.675?±0.125
Oil Capacity?€"Manual
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.425?±0.125
Cylinder Block
Main Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 72.401-72.422 (2.85-2.851)
Crankshaft and Flywheel
Main Bearing Journal
Diameter mm (Inch) 67.483-67-503 (2.65-2.657)
Connecting Rod Journal?€"
Diameter mm (Inch) 52.988-53.003
(2.0861-2.0867)
Crankshaft Free End Play
mm (Inch) 0.130-0.301 (0.0051-0.012)
Crankshaft Runout to Rear
Face of Block mm (Inch) 0.050 MAX (0.002)
Connecting Rod Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.027-0.069 (0.001-0.0027)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0/069 (0.001-0.0027)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 2.44-2.452 (0.096-0.0965)
Main Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 1.920-1.928 (0.075-0.076)
Connecting Rod, Piston and Rings
Connecting Rod?€"Piston
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 21.959-21.979
(0.864-0.865)
Connecting Rod?€"
Crankshaft Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 56.756-56.876 (2.234-2.24)
Connecting Rod?€"Length
(Center-to-Center)
mm (Inch) 150.7 (5.93)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.) c ?€"Twist
mm (Inch) 0.050 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.)?€"Bend
mm (Inch) 0.038 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Standard
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.45 (0.0006-0.0177)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.05 MAX (0.02)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.0007)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Runout mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Crankshaft Connecting Rod
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)

OK here is what happened. With the oil overfull, the connecting rod caps, which usually don't dip into the oil, started whipping the oil, creating whipped lubricant that the oil pump couldn't draw in. This more than likely resulted in the loss of lubrication to the camshaft bearings, rod and main bearings, piston rings and walls and the camshaft and rockers and valve system.

Depending on how long the engine ran, the bearings may have spun, keeping any oil from being sent to some bearings, the cylinder walls and piston rings may have worn too much to provide proper compression.

The oil pump probably suffered also.

If you ran it a long time that way with the oil light on, find yourself a remanufactured engine or a used engine & save the headache and expense of rebuilding this one.

If it was for just a few minutes, pull the plugs, put a table spoon of oil into each cylinder to lubricate & seal the piston ring to the cylinder wall for compression, change to a higher gade of oil, crank the engine to try and build oil pressure, reinstall plugs, try and start.

good luck.

Yes you can remove the pistons without removing the crank. All you need to do is make sure when you go back in with the pistons that the rods and studs don't scar the crank. You can do this by putting a piece of rubber vacuum line over the studs. As long as the bearings are ok and within spec then you can reuse them, just make sure you keep them with the rod that it casme off of and not mix them up. I don't reccomend reusing them because you can purchase new ones for about 30 bucks.

Before attempting any further repairs I would suggest having the block checked for cracks from overheating. Foreign blocks are light but also fragile and crack easily when overheated. You may be able to replace those parts but it depends on how long and severe the car was overheated. Expansion/contraction damage may have already taken place which would require cylinder honing for the new rings.

i have experienced this when rebuilding engines. and what happens is the crank shaft will not get reground right and that will cause it to walk against the thrust bearings. and that is why you heard the scraping sound. and also if it is not the right fly wheel it will cause the engine to be out of balance sending the catastrophic failure to the crank. also this could be the cause of a lack of lubrication in the engine. I would try to see what work has been done to the car using a car fax report wich you can get online by entering the vin# website is www.carfax.com if you need more info just let me know and i will do my best to answer any more questions you might have
Thank you and please give me a rating