I have rebuilt a 1.8 1993 Subaru Loyale engine including rings, bearings,head and valve job, new oil pump, belts and water pump .. BUT after warming up to operating temp metallic - (valve train type sound) and knock becomes very loud a , especially at idle. At speed seems to have sufficent power and noise is not as apparent. any suggestions?

camshaft sprocket bolt 58-72 ft. lbs. crankshaft pulley bolts 108-132 ft. lbs. crankshaft pulley center bolt 80-94 ft. lbs. cylinder head bolts cold engine 65-72 ft. lbs. warm engine 73-80 ft. lbs. cylinder head rear cover bolts 69-86 in. lbs. flywheel/Driveplate bolts 94-101 ft. lbs. intake/Exhaust manifold nuts/Bolts 11-14 ft. lbs. jet valves 13-16 ft. lbs. main bearing cap bolts 36-39 ft. lbs. oil pan bolts 51-69 in. lbs. oil pan nuts 43-60 in. lbs. oil pan drain plug 33 ft. lbs. oil pump cover bolts 72-84 in. lbs. oil pump relief valve plug 29-36 ft. lbs. oil pump sprocket nut 25-28 ft. lbs. Rear oil seal retainer bolts 84-108 in. lbs. rocker arm shaft bolts 14-15 ft. lbs. rod bearing cap nuts 23-25 ft. lbs. silent shaft sprocket nut 22-28 ft. lbs. spark plugs 15-21 ft. lbs. thermostat housing-to-Engine bolts 86-114 in. lbs. timing belt tensioner bolt 32-40 ft. lbs. valve cover bolts 43-61 in. lbs. water pump-to-Engine bolts alternator brace bolt 14-20 ft. lbs. all others 9-11 ft. lbs. water pump pulley bolts 72-84 in. lbs.

Check for bad / cracked / hardened vacuum hoses, especially to the PCV valve (which is pretty cheap to replace). Also, check the EGR valve, to see it is working. There is also the possibility of low fuel pressure or low fuel volume due to a failing fuel pump, fuel pump relay (if equipped), or a clogged or clogging fuel filter. I should have mentioned to check the fuel to see if it might be contaminated with water. Have you checked to see if the coolant (antifreeze) is low, or if the oil looks like a chocolate shake? That can happen if coolant is leaking into the oil via a failing head gasket or cracked water jacket!

The engine can't run without compression in the cylinders. The plug will still spark, but without a compressed air/fuel mixture to burn and power the cylinder down, the starter will just keep spinning the engine over, cranking forever and not starting.
Check if your timing belts are good and not broke. Cylinder compression is dependent on good piston rings, intake and exhaust valves that open and close at right times and that seal good when closed, and a head gasket that seals up the cylinder from leaks where compression could blow into the water passages, or oil passages, or to outside of engine.
If the timing belts are good, a leak-down test of each cylinder will pinpoint where compression is lost.
Good luck with the Sube, great cars, great engines, but the head gaskets are a common problem.

I would think that the shop would have seen a problem with the belt, but you never know. You might think of that when you consider the oil use, my best guess is that whom ever rebuilt the engine installed the piston rings up side down. That would make it use the oil. The power steering fluid must be leaking and could be many things but sense you just had the engine out I would look around the lines were they attach to the pump, also some times there will be some oil use after an overhaul until the piston rings seat but this seams like to much oil use for that better go have a long talk with your shop...

there are a few reasons for the engine to smoke. first determine the color of the smoke, white smoke means its burning water...possible bad head gasket or cracked block or cylinder heads. If the smoke is black...means the fuel mixture is to rich, getting to much fuel. If the color is blueish...it is burning oil, meaning the oil rings are worn, and or the valve seals are worn as well. if it smokes when you first start it, and then stops after a few minutes, once the engine is warmed up...probably bad valve seals. if it continues to smoke it is more likely the oil rings. Valve seals being cheaper and easier to repair, where as the oil rings means the motor needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

why would you want to do the job twice,do the whole kit,same as clutch unit.(you wouldnt change one plug would you......)

You have damaged the Valves so the head will have to be removed and recondtioned at a machine shop or buy a rebuilt at auto supply house, the head will cost $250.. with an exchange head. you will have to replace pushrods for the valves if so equipped, and antifreeze oil and filter lifters as well so figure about $500.00 to $800.00 to do the fix to make it run right, they will punt in a new water pump and a new timing belt tensioner and belt and other things that you will not understand.

is he sure it isn't the rings are worn also?  If so don't waste money on a valve job, when you really need a rebuilt motor.  Had you changed the oil more you wouldn't need this repair at this time.  Good uck as his price is decent.  Ask him the price for a long block?

Get a proper manual like Haynes (amazon, parts store, Haynes.com).  You should not have to take either main pullel or cam pulley off to change timeing belt,  you DO want a new tensioner and and new idler pulley (if there is one).  Failure to replace these may result in a later failure that wipes out the blet, and possibly the motor (if it is an interference motor).
If you can change the oil pump from working on the front side of the motor, you are either a magician or a contortionist;!) and I need you to help me work on my car;~)    It's pretty rare for an oil pump to go bad before 400K km or 300K miles  ... the bloddy things are in a constant bath of oil!

camshaft sprocket bolt 58-72 ft. lbs. crankshaft pulley bolts 108-132 ft. lbs. crankshaft pulley center bolt 80-94 ft. lbs. cylinder head bolts cold engine 65-72 ft. lbs. warm engine 73-80 ft. lbs. cylinder head rear cover bolts 69-86 in. lbs. flywheel/Driveplate bolts 94-101 ft. lbs. intake/Exhaust manifold nuts/Bolts 11-14 ft. lbs. jet valves 13-16 ft. lbs. main bearing cap bolts 36-39 ft. lbs. oil pan bolts 51-69 in. lbs. oil pan nuts 43-60 in. lbs. oil pan drain plug 33 ft. lbs. oil pump cover bolts 72-84 in. lbs. oil pump relief valve plug 29-36 ft. lbs. oil pump sprocket nut 25-28 ft. lbs. Rear oil seal retainer bolts 84-108 in. lbs. rocker arm shaft bolts 14-15 ft. lbs. rod bearing cap nuts 23-25 ft. lbs. silent shaft sprocket nut 22-28 ft. lbs. spark plugs 15-21 ft. lbs. thermostat housing-to-Engine bolts 86-114 in. lbs. timing belt tensioner bolt 32-40 ft. lbs. valve cover bolts 43-61 in. lbs. water pump-to-Engine bolts alternator brace bolt 14-20 ft. lbs. all others 9-11 ft. lbs. water pump pulley bolts 72-84 in. lbs.