Rectangular box behiond oil pan lost bolt and

Yes, all oil pans need gaskets. The torque is 18 ft lbs. PDF file

Oil Pan Replacement - ChevroletForum

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2005 Chevrolet EQUINOX. Submodel: LT ' Engine Type: V6 ' Liters: 3.4. Fuel Delivery: FI ' Fuel: GAS. Oil Pan Replacement. Tools Required. J 39505 Torque ...


Do you need to torque oil pan bolts?
Engine oil pan bolts range in torque from seven foot-pounds to 22 ft-lb or more for large engines with heavier pans and bolts. Once you've torqued the bolts and filled the engine with oil, you should run the engine for five minutes to bring it up to normal operating temperature.

Videos and more info

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Just loosen oil plug and drain...take out pan bolts... drop down...make sure alt gasket material is off of both pan and bottom of motor. Lay new gasket on oil pan...possibly use gasket sealer to keep gasket in place...a very thin layer on oil pan then put gasket on. Let dry for a bit then bolt back up...make sure oil plug is back in then refill....cheers!

engine pan or trans pan,(guess at engine)
what's up doc.?
what is the job.
lost the gasket?
lost the bolts.?
not sure what going on here.
buy a new gasket from Felpro and bingo? there be a pattern

Depends on ease of access. Many oil pans can be dropped without removing the engine. You will have to put car up on ramps and chock the wheels. Set emergency brakes and make sure car is in Park. I know, sounds like overkill, but better to much safety than one deadly accident. Drain your oil pan just like you would to do an oil change. Locate your oil pan bolts and carefully remove them. This should allow the pan to drop free for the gasket to be replaced. The leak may be due to loosened or lost bolts and not a bad gasket. You might try tightening them first and replacing any lost ones. Be sure not to over-tighten or could could bend the pan and that's a whole new bucket of problems. If you do replace the gasket, clean both surfaces, put new gasket on pan with a THIN bead of gasket sealant, put a THIN smear on top of the gasket and put back onto engine block. Tighten bolts to specified torque. May as well put on a new oil filter. No sense keeping cruddy oil filter with new oil. PUT OIL IN ENGINE. Remove from ramp and let run a bit, shut off for 5 minutes and recheck oil level. Be forewarned, this is a really dirty, crungy job. Wear clothes you're not emotionally attached to. Have hot water and dish soap at the ready to clean-up. No body wants to grab a door knob that's got yucky motor oil on it. And jump straight to the shower.

Not likely. The oil is drained from the oil drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan. To damage the oil pan gasket, someone would just about have to remove the oil pan, a big job! There are probably 16 to 24 bolts or more holding the pan into place. During a routine oil change, there is no reason to mess with the bolts, with the possible exception of trying to reduce leakage by giving the bolts a little snug up.

Are you sure it's leaking from the oil pan? That is a lot of oil to lose in a short time. I would check that the oil filter is tight and sealed rather than the pan gasket.

Oil leak can be attributed to several factors.
1. Gasket failure.
2. Uncontrolled Crank case pressure Failure.

RECOMENDATION:
Tighten both the valve cover and oil pan bolts.
Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve and vacuum line.,

INFO: PCV
This is a valve causes a negative vacuum on the engine while its running, As to say if it had a leak in a valve cover it should not be leaking while its running, only when the engine it turned off.

Hope this tip guides you in the correct direction to solve this problem.

R/
David

if it's 5.2 or 5.9 engine,the intake manifold plenum pan gasket may be drawing oil from lifter valley of engine..remove air cleaner and check down inside manifold with throttle plates wide open and look for oil pooling inside intake..if there is oil in there,you to remove intake manifold and replace gasket and bolts holding rectangular pan to bottom of intake..you will need intake gaskets as well..suggest going to dealer for parts..fairly inexpensive as well..i hope this helps

Unless you are replacing the gasket, I'd just go around the pan and snug them up. I doubt you'll be able to hit all them very easily with the motor in the car.

Just use common sense and make them snug and don't overdo it and you should be fine. It will be clear which ones are loose when you put a wrench on them.

Good luck.

I highly recommend having a torque wrench at your disposal to perform this procedure. Hondas go forever if you take care of them, a torque wrench is a small investment (and some auto parts stores will loan/rent them to you).

According to the manual (for the 1998 - the 1996 is probably the same) you will first need to remove the transmissioin/engine stiffener. This is a piece that transverses from the engine to transmission and is held in place by 4 bolts.

After that you remove the existing oil pan.

You must scrape off any residue or remaining gasket from the engine block - you can do that with a putty knife. Be careful not to scratch/gouge the surface. Then clean the surface of the engine block.

Get a new pan and gasket. Use gasket seal (Honda part # 08718-0001 ir 0718-0003) to afix the gasket to the pan. According to the manual, after affixing the gasket you should use additional gasket seal at both of the short ends of the (more or less) rectangular outline of the pan/gasket (including the rounded corners) and then put them on to the block (do this within 5 minutes of applying the gasket seal). The manual indicates you should hand tighten six bolts - the ones at the corners of the short ends of the rectangle, and the ones right in the middle of the long ends. When these are hand tight you will insert and hand tighten the other bolts. Then increasingly tighten the bolts starting with the one most directly under the oil filter. Work from that bolt clockwise, gradually increasing the tightness of the bolts until you reach a torque of 8.7 foot pounds.

If you don't do this correctly you will warp the pan, so be careful.

Once completed you should refasten the engine stiffener. The bolts going to the engine side should be tightened to 17 foot pounds, the bolts to the transmission side should be tightened to 33 foot pounds.

You should be done, but the manual says to wait 30 minutes prior to adding oil.

Good luck!