2003 Ford F250 Logo

Related Topics:

James South Posted on Apr 22, 2021
Answered by a Fixya Expert

Trustworthy Expert Solutions

At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.

View Our Top Experts

2003 F250 6.0 PS and AT will not crank. Replaced ignition switch, no help. I am able to start it by using a jumper wire on the starter relay. Where do I look next? Thank you for ANY help!!

3 Answers

jack layton

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Ford Master 5,569 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 22, 2021
jack layton
Ford Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: Nov 12, 2014
Answers
5569
Questions
0
Helped
2398111
Points
20059

2003 F250 6.0 PS and AT will not crank. Replaced i - ford starter-zr311gnndq1yonhubgnsdo3y-6-0.jpg note the diagram for starter relay, the relay has two sides, the switch side, left side in diagram. The control side, right side in diagram. If you used jumper on the switch side and it cranked, but, w/o the jumper, it wouldn't, check the control side of relay for voltage and ground. You can see 15 amp fuse, goes hot with key in the crank position. Also note the transmission range sensor. The bottom black wire on control side is chassis ground. By using jumper on switch side of relay, it bypasses the control side. good luck

  • 2 more comments 
  • James South Apr 22, 2021

    With the relay pulled I jumped pins 30 and 87 and key in run position. I ser what you mean about the control side voltage. Kinda strange how sometimes it works fine. I'll check that either before or after I pull and clean the EGR valve (something I'm more adept at !) Thanks for the help!!

  • jack layton
    jack layton Apr 22, 2021

    On control side of relay, you can use both ends of test light, control terminals, key in the crank position, when problem is ongoing. If the test light comes on, there is voltage and ground on the control side. Yes, intermittent issues can be a pain to track.

  • James South Apr 23, 2021

    Okay, just checked fuse #31 for voltage when I turn the key to start. I am showing 18 volts in the run position with no change in start. Electrical testing is mostly above me so when I saw 18 volts on a 12 volt (dual battery) system I wonder if I did it right. Had the digital voltmeter set on DC, grounded the common lead to chassis and probed the fuse, with it still in fuse panel, with the input lead. While holding the input lead to the fuse I cycled the key and watched the meter readout. Did I do that right?

  • James South Apr 24, 2021

    Also just checked the control side of starter relay. Did the test light check and got nothing in crank position. I want to double check it tomorrow when it's lighter outside so I can be certain that I am contacting the female pins in fuse block.

×

john h

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Top Expert:

An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Ford Master 29,494 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 22, 2021
john h
Ford Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Top Expert:

An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

Joined: Jun 07, 2009
Answers
29494
Questions
0
Helped
7561421
Points
193449

If jumping starter rely is starting then assume that relay is faulty but test it first

  • James South Apr 22, 2021

    I will do that in the morning. Thanks for quick reply.

  • James South Apr 22, 2021

    Starter relay bench tested okay. Put it back in and it took 5 tries with no cranking before it turned over and fired up on the 6th try. (???)

×

Ad

CJ Rock

Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Ford Master 4,429 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 22, 2021
CJ Rock
Ford Master
Level 3:

An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

Superstar:

An expert that got 20 achievements.

All-Star:

An expert that got 10 achievements.

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Joined: Dec 08, 2012
Answers
4429
Questions
0
Helped
1645581
Points
15024

Try starting with transmission in neutral instead of park.

  • James South Apr 22, 2021

    Did not start in neutral, or park again. No rhyme to what it is doing. Sometimes it starts and runs fine, other times it won't even crank. I have the FORScan Lite app and have run a scan for DTC's. Before I had P671,3,5 and 7. Also P1000. Today I have P404, 670, 1000 and 1408 but not 671,3,5 or 7. Any of these tell me anything? Thanks for the assist!

  • James South Apr 22, 2021

    For info purposes, my EGR cooler is deleted.

×

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Hey my 2008 Saturn vue won't start hear a Singal click from relay when turning to start position battery is good stated is new ecu is new and randomly it will start work for a day then not start again any...

If starter won't crank the engine when problem is ongoing? Make sure battery has a full charge and connections all good. Jump the starter relay, pull the relay, use jumper wire on switch side of relay, left side in diagram, cavities for terminal 30 and 87. The starter motor should crank the engine, that starter fuse is hot all the time. If you try the jumper, make sure transmission is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Vehicle can't move. If you have key in on position, where dash lights come on, when you use the jumper, depending on the problem, the vehicle may start and run. By using the jumper you are bypassing the control side of relaY. right side in diagram. There are several components involved on the control side of relay, ignition switch--bcm--ecm--neutral switch. You need to have it diagnosed properly. Have you tried cranking in neutral instead of park, when problem is ongoing?
starter relay-fffxseelj3lpgwzh33qfy5fc-6-0.jpg
0helpful
2answers

99 buick century pcm bcm ignition staring diagram wiring

pcm bcm ignition staring diagram wiring ?????? First off what is staring ????? Do you mean STARTING system wiring diagram ??????? The PCM / BCM have nothing to do with the starting system on your vehicle. When you turn the key to the start position it sends B+ voltage through the transaxle range switch to the S terminal on the starter solenoid ,that's it . Use a test light ,voltmeter etc... With someone turning the key to start check for B+ voltage at the starter S terminal . Plus voltage drop test the heavy gage battery cable to the starter .
Starter Voltage Drop
0helpful
1answer

My ford 2001 v10 f250 does not crank start or click what wrong change starter and solenoids

Might be bad starter relay, or bad ignition switch. Check for voltage to starter when key in start position, or turn on headlamps and try to start. If lamps dim, bad battery connections, bad ground, bad replaced starer. If lamps do not dim, starter position on switch may be bad. You could try using jumper from battery to start post on solenoid to see if it cranks. If it does, you have either a bad ignition switch, start relay, or wiring problem.
0helpful
1answer

No start on cold days

https://s27.postimg.org/yy2w2qx43/starter_motor.jpg

Click on the link.
Are you talking about starter motor? In the diagram, see starter relay, unplug the relay, see terminal 30 and terminal 87, if you use jumper wire between those two terminals, the starter motor should crank, Terminal 30 is hot all the time. If you try this make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. If it cranks with the jumper, the problem is on control side of relay, ignition switch--neutral switch--or wiring circuit, somewhere. see crank fuse, use a test lite and voltage on crank fuse when problem is ongoing. I can only help with testing.
0helpful
2answers

Please help, my 2003 impala wont crank. it died while I was driving like my alternator went but I did not loose my lights, radio, or horn. I disconnected the battery for a few min but did not help, my...

I can help with testing, but, you have to do the testing. Use a digital multimeter and make sure battery has a full charge? Also, check your charging system? If the battery is down, we can't do any testing, we're just spinning our wheels.
If the starter motor won't crank, check the starter motor wiring circuits.
If the battery has a full charge, unplug the starter relay, use a jumper wire on the load side of relay, the load side is that line with arrowhead, the starter motor should crank the engine. That doesn't mean it will start. If you try that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set.

impala starter 1-meaqwjfx52w5pt4o455mtxpw-1-0.jpg

impala starter 2-meaqwjfx52w5pt4o455mtxpw-1-2.jpg
1helpful
1answer

Won't start

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter
0helpful
1answer

The engin will not turn over intermittently. I had the dealership check the batter, the starter and the alternator. All came out good. They could not get the car not to start so they could not fix it. ...

Try starting in Neutral instead of Park. If this works, the transmission range switch (sometimes called a neutral safety switch) is faulty in Park.

Next, you can try a remote start switch (available at auto parts stores) or a jumper wire to bypass the ignition switch. First make sure transmission is in park or neutral. You will be jumping from the battery positive terminal to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid terminal has a black wire with a white stripe connected to it. (This terminal is visible just to the left of the automatic transmission dipstick tube.) Remove this wire and connect one end of the remote start switch wire (or jumper wire) to it. Connect the other end of the remote start switch wire to the battery positive terminal. Activate the remote start switch and see if the starter will crank. (If using a jumper wire, briefly touch the other end to the battery positive terminal and see if cranking will occur). If the starter works then you have a problem in the ignition switch, or starter cut-out relay.

The starter cut-out relay is located on the back of the driver's under dash fuse/relay box in the left wall kick panel. The ignition switch also has wire leads that plug into the back of this same fuse box. You can disconnect the wire leads and test the ignition switch with on ohm meter from this point.
0helpful
1answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start

Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
2helpful
2answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.

You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?
0helpful
1answer

1993 sierra gmc truck wont start... speedometor races battery working and has had the starter replaced. Gages jumping relays clicking, but no juice to the starter...help

If your starter has 2 or more small wires on it you may have switched the terminals. If you have a separate starter relay you can bypass the relay with a jumper cable and send 12 volts to the starters only main cable. It should crank, have it in Park (Auto) or Neutral (stick shift). If the starter does not crank bypassed then the only thing missing is a good ground. Use a pair of jumper cables and try grounding the starter case and connect the cable to a good ground. With the gauges dancing usually a bad ground is the reason, so the jumper cables will help with that problem too, at least for test reasons.

If you had the old starter tested, then you know it was the first problem. But if the old starter was not tested your problem could be a bad starter relay, an ignition switch,or finally a bad ground. Check the grounding of the remote starter relay, check for a plug-in connector off the end of the steering column for corrosion.
Not finding what you are looking for?

463 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

15088 Answers

xxxxxx xxx

Level 3 Expert

5117 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...