How to remove fill bolt on 4l30e transmission? Hard to remove.

4L30E Rebuild Kit 4L30-E Automatic Transmission ML4 ...

Oregon Performance Transmission https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com > O...

Master rebuild box kit for the 4L30E automatic transmissions. For GM, BMW, Cadillac, Honda, and Isuzu applications. This kit fits the 1990-up 4 speed ...
US$196.34 · ‎In stock

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-5p6mJyfds

Rodeo 4L30e are interchangeable up through 1999. The 2000 Rodeo 4L30e and above will work but the electrical connectors are different and would require rewiring. A 2000-2002 Trooper 4l30e is not compatible with any year Rodeo

wreckers or junk yards that handle that make would be good place to start looking

should be no problem
bell housings are made to fit the engine not the transmission as the transmission is used across a range of manufacturers so if the bell housing is of an engine that is the same as yours then it should fit your transmission

why not login in to mitchell DIY, (goggle it ) and read.
or go to any online, 4L30 parts house and read.
lots of those, can all found easy using "GOOGLE"
here.
search, (4L30 parts)
3rd hit MAKCO
see the graphic there, click it.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/4L30E.html

you need to remove the TC, bolts first
the bell housings bolts to the engine,
those come off, with tranny jack in place.
all the steps are in the service manual.
4wd.
quote (a wall of text, why not buy the book?)

& Transfer Case Automatic Transmission Transmission Removal 4L30-E Transmission

4L30-E Transmission(removal

Print
4L30-E Transmission
Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector

Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector
Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener
Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses

Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses


NOTE

The transfer case is an integral part of the transmission housing. Although the 2 cases can be separated, the transfer case should be removed with the transmission.

Use a felt-tipped marker to matchmark the hood to the hood hinges. Remove the hood.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Shift the transmission into the N position, and the transfer case into the 2H position.

Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the transfer case shift knob. Remove the 4 transmission cover console retaining screws.

Remove the center console assembly and disengage the console switch wiring connectors.

Disconnect the shift lock cable and the shift control rod from the selector lever assembly.

Unbolt and remove the transfer case control lever.

Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the transmission and transfer case skid plates.

Remove the exhaust pipe protectors.

Drain the transmission fluid. For more information servicing the transmission fluid pan and filter, refer to Section 1.

Label and detach the oxygen sensor connectors.

Remove the catalytic converter, center exhaust pipe and front exhaust pipe, as described in Section 3.

Matchmark the front and rear driveshafts to the differential and transfer case flanges.

Unbolt and remove the front and rear driveshafts, as described later in this section.

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines to prevent fluid loss and contamination.

Remove the brackets securing the oil cooler lines to the engine stiffener.

Remove the front suspension crossmember.

Remove the dipstick and tube. Disconnect the breather hoses from the tube.

Remove the 5 engine stiffener bracket bolts and the stiffener bracket.

Remove the heat protector.

Disengage the transmission harness connectors and the mode switch harness connector from the engine harness.

Disconnect the harness clamp from the clamp bracket.

Disconnect the ground cable from the engine.

Remove the starter motor, as described in Section 2.

Remove the flexplate inspection cover.

Remove the 3 bolts securing the flexplate to the torque converter. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to all 3 bolts.

NOTE

Remove the radiator upper fan shroud and the cooling fan to access the crankshaft center bolt to turn the crankshaft.

Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission and transfer case unit for support.

Raise the transmission slightly and remove the 8 bolts securing the rear mount and the transmission crossmember.

NOTE

Make sure the engine and transmission assembly is properly supported before removing the rear mount and third crossmember.

Raise the engine slightly with an engine hoist and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts.

Separate the transmission from the engine and lower the transmission from the vehicle.
end removal quote

Most manual transmissions don't use transmission fluid such as you would find in Automatic Transmissions... that I have ever heard of. They use a heavy grade multi-viscosity oil called, "gear oil}, especially made for manual transmissions. Typically, it's 70-90W SAE NGLI 4 or 5 grade oil pr maybe 90-110W SAE depending upon the mfr. To be sure, look at your owner's manual or use a Fleet Services catalog under one of big oil mfrs, like Shell, Ashland's Valvoline, Mobil, Quarter State, or Texaco. Usually, there is a large bolt at the sump, don't remove and drain out the fluid until you locate the fill access nut and can loosen it. Make sure your truck is on level ground. The fill access bolt is usually either a quarter inch square nut that you can turn with a 1/4" open-end wrench; however, some use an indented 1/4" or 1/2" indented square bolt/plug that you can use a suitably sized ratchet extension bar end with a ratchet to open. (Shorter length bar is often better for work in close quarters.) You will find the fill plug on one the side of the transmission casing, up high when your lying on your back underneath. Open the fill plug first, before you drain the transmission sump. Many transmission sump drain bolts have a thin metal washer on them that serve as a gasket... get a new one to replace the old one. Using the old one may cause a slow leak you won't be able to stop the very slow dripping on. The sump nut will have small pieces of metal filings on it, collected as the transmission gears wear... wipe off the magnetic underside of the bolt to clean it out with a rag. A toothpick works great at getting the fine metal particles off from around the edges. (Reminder: Take the fill port bolt off first and then drain the transmission sump by removing the sump nut.) After draining, put the "cleaned" sump bolt back on with the new washer. Ensure you have a short length of clear plastic tubing with you to push onto the open nozzle end of the gear oil container that is best cut with a carpet or box cutting razor with handle. (Remember to break the inner seal underneath the screw top nozzle.) (TIP: If there is little room to raise the bottle above the fill hole and squeeze it to empty it through the plastic tube into the fill port on the transmission, buy an extra quart of gear oil... it is easier to squeeze a full bottle and and top it up with another one as it gets too hard to squeeze when empty to make the oil come out..; go slow or you can squeeze so hard the nozzle will break and cover your hand with gear oil.) Fill the Manual Transmission case to the point where gear oil starts to trickle out of the fill hole and then put the square bolt back in with the open-end wrench or ratchet extension bar end. (TIP: Using an extension bar end is preferable to just a ratchet tip as it adds leverage to make the removal easier.)

The manual transmission oil, or gear box oil can't last forever. It is a good idea to replace every 60K miles with a new one. Just as with motor oil, and oil change is cheap insurance. Buy synthetic oil if you can.
The manual transmission oil change is a simple procedure, but can complicated and creates costly problems.
First remove the filling bolt. In some cases this is siezed, If the heating doesn't help, you don't want a stripped filler bolt, with an empty transmission. Use WD-40 and do not use extensive force.
If the bolt still won't budge. Stop. Lower the car and visit a shop for service.
After removing the filler bolt (upper), then remove the drain bolt at the bottom.
Replace the drain bolt, with a new one, normally has a magnet, and thread it by hand after with a wrench.
Fill the gearbox with oil using a gear oil / lube pump. Replace the filling bolt and process same as with draining bolt.
If you will change the gear box oil every 60K miles this is the best insurance for your manual transmission. DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE FILLING AND DRAINING BOLTS WITH NEW ONE.
In rare cases a rusty bolt is siezed, almost rust welded in the transmission housing, so the transmission must be removed and taken to a machine shop.

Yes, the ATF4 is the correct transmission fluid to use in your Dodge Caliber. As for finding the fill plug it should be a bolt screwed into the side of the tail housing midway between where the gearshift goes in and the end of the transmission. Look on both sides. If it is not there, you may be required to pull the gearshift out of the transmission, this is not hard to do. Simple remove the gearshift boot cover and there should be 4 bolts holding what is known as the gearshift inspection plate. Remove these bolts with the gearshift in neutral, pull directly up on the gearshift and it should come out of the transmission, but by all means search for a fill plug first.

Actually your car has no transmission dipstick...

There is a red fill cap on the transmission bell housing under the brake master cylinder. You'll have to look real hard to see it. There is also a bolt on the passenger side of the transmission that you remove to check the level.

You have to fill the oil from the fill cap until it runs out of the bolt hole. Don't ask me why GM did this on a lot of their cars...

The transmission in your vehicle is a 4L30E model,manufactured by General Motors,and used in vehicles from BMW's to Cadillacs,Isuzu's and Honda's.The transmission is BASED on the old Chevette Turbo Hydramatic 180 model.The 4L30E is basically a TH180 with an overdrive unit added on.I rebuild transmissions for a living,and have seen the 4L30E over and over with the same failures,inherent weaknesses,and every transmission model has them,just in different areas.The 4L30E failures are nothing new,so don't despair.Hopefully the trans currently in your truck will be problem free.