Vibration when using reverse gear .when shifting to reverse gear i feel vibration like oil pump vibration

run fault codes and look for faulty TCM and reverse servo .

Motor mounts tight?

HIGH PITCH WHINNING NOISE IS FAULTY TRANSMISSION OIL PUMP.HAVE THE TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE CHECK AT A TRANSMISSION SHOP.IF TRANSMISSION OIL PUMP TOO WEAK OR MALFUNCTION.YOUR TRANSMISSION WONT HAVE ENOUGH OIL PRESSURE FOR FORWARD GEAR , REVERSE GEAR, BAND OR SHIFT VALVES IN VALVE BODY.NOTHING WILL WORK TRANSMISSION.OIL PUMP LIKE HYDRALIC PUMP KEEPS EVERY THING WORKING..

Visually check all Engine and Transmission Mounts. Check for loose and/or broken bolts. Next individually check the rubber mounts each for cracks or tears. It might be advisable to support the engine, loosen and remove the mounts, inorder to check them thoroughly. When you shift into gear (drive or reverse) this causes the Engine to physically shift also. If the mount is bad then the metal rod holding on the rubber mount goes makes contact with metal causing vibrations.
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Hello. As you know, the transmission is one of the more sophisticated components in any auto. It takes the most transmission pressure to engage reverse, third, and fourth gear in an auto tranny. In an auto tranny, the shifter is connected to a linkage that manually shifts between the different gears in the transmission. When you shift into reverse, all transmission pressure is concentrated to engage reverse. When you shift to drive the transmission will operate normally, building pressure until it can shift into the next gear. With third, second, or first gear selected it will lock out all higher gears (Unless the TCU detects overrevving of the engine, in which case it will override gear selection and upshift to avoid engine damage). All the TCU does in a modern auto tranny is control shift points. Years and years ago, shifting was controlled by a spring attached to the gas pedal. When the gas pedal was depressed, the spring would expand. As tranny pressure grew, the spring would become compressed until it was fully compressed, engaging the next gear. The harder you stepped on the gas, the longer you went until the tranny shifted. In modern transmissions the TCU dictates shift points, and not much else. The TCU will also control when the torque converter will lock, but that's where it's duties end. The problem with engaging reverse is either a linkage issue, or a problem with the pump not building enough pressure to fully engage reverse.

Try putting the shifter in reverse, holding the brakes firmly, and giving the car gas. If the car reaches a higher RPM and suddenly slams into reverse it is the pump. The pump will only build enough pressure to engage reverse with higher RPM's. If the pump is severly damaged it won't engage at all, but if this is the case it probably won't engage third or fourth gear either at that point. If the problem is with the linkage, reverse just won't engage whatsoever, despite RPM's. I'd say start with the shift linkage. If it's bent or misadjusted it could cause reverse to not be fully engaged. The TCU doesn't control reverse at all, since there are no shift points and no need for the torque converter to lock.

Check the "u" joints on the driveshaft ends. at least one end has failed.

Hi,
Though I'm not an expert on Hondas, I've been around a few trannies. An automatic transmission generally does not have a drain plug. The pan bolts are loosened and the transmission fluid is drained into a catch pan. A new gasket then applied to the pan and the pan then bolted back to position then new fluid added.
Are you sure of your fluid level? Sometimes a low level of fluid can cause a problem like this.
Hope this helps...
Good luck!

A pinion seal leaks for one or boyh of these reasons. A worn pinion bearing or a driveshaft vibration, Sounds as though you have both. Do not confuse tire howl with gear howl, be sure.The rear end can run 3 to 500.00 if not more. Ck the gear oil in the rearend for metal content. That will tell you alot. The hard shifting is generally from a sticky spool in the trans valve body. Have the trans serviced w/new oil and filter. The new oil often cleans the moving parts of gum and varnish buildup.in the valve body. One more thing, the rear ends take a special oil and additive if it's a limited slip or posi lock. You will have a popping/binding noise when turning if the wrong lube is install. Have your driveshaft aligned and balanced at at driveshaft shop.or you will end up tearing up the tailshaft on the trans. Good Luck

First thing to do,try to pump your clutch before you shift into 1st gear then if you feel makes better, most probably you have problem with your hydraulic clutch system, check the clutch line if there is an evidence of fluid leaking or it could be internal leak.

Second thing to do, check your transmission oil, may be it' s too old or you use a thick oil thats why when cold its hard to shift then when the engine rich the normal temperature(warm) the oil become thin and the shifting will smooth. Remember the very old oil become thicken and the purity is gone and can cause of hard shifting. in this regards i suggest you to change the transmission oil and check the used oil if there is small peace of metals, then you are in big trouble,

Hi,
check out for worn out clutch plates . The second problem could with a worn out gear. Do all gears make a sound during the change or its the lower gears . Generally the First- second shift and Reverse gears cause this problem on the Accent .


Thanks
proton