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Hi,i have a 1994 lumina van with the 3.8 litre,it has 375,000 km's,it was running great until yesterday it started making a weird clicking/tapping sound,at fisrt i figured maybe it was one of the driven components so i removed the serpentine belt and started it,it still makes the noise but only when u rev a rittle from an idle,it sounds like its coming from directly behind the harmonic balancer,i'm puzzled as to what it may be?...could it have something to do with the timing components?...it still runs smooth,just an irritating noise,,,thank you..Dave
it only makes the noise at idle,if u rev a little it sounds fine but as soon as it idles back down the noise starts again?it only makes the noise at idle,if u rev a little it sounds fine but as soon as it idles back down the noise starts again?
ok this is weird..if the serpentine belt is on it makes the noise constantly at idle only,but if u remove the belt it doesnt make it atall at idle but if u rev it quickly it makes it just for a second,ok this is weird..if the serpentine belt is on it makes the noise constantly at idle only,but if u remove the belt it doesnt make it atall at idle but if u rev it quickly it makes it just for a second,
oh and if u try to turn the engine over by hand it stops at a certain point like its hitting something,than if u turn it the other way it almost makes a complete revolution than stops again?...but it starts and runs ok except for the noise i mentioned,,what could this be..i'm puzzled?oh and if u try to turn the engine over by hand it stops at a certain point like its hitting something,than if u turn it the other way it almost makes a complete revolution than stops again?...but it starts and runs ok except for the noise i mentioned,,what could this be..i'm puzzled?
ok nevermind lol..i figured it out,i had a seperated harmonic balancer(rubber to steel bond was broken),i'll replace the balancer now...thanks anyways Daveok nevermind lol..i figured it out,i had a seperated harmonic balancer(rubber to steel bond was broken),i'll replace the balancer now...thanks anyways Dave
ty for your input catvaman,but it was a seperated harmonic balancer,i picked up a used one from the wreckers($65.00)and replaced it myself,its fine now,but yea your theory makes sense,i hope i can get another year from the old van, i'm looking for a small 4x4 next(nissan or toyota)pickup., thanks Dave.ty for your input catvaman,but it was a seperated harmonic balancer,i picked up a used one from the wreckers($65.00)and replaced it myself,its fine now,but yea your theory makes sense,i hope i can get another year from the old van, i'm looking for a small 4x4 next(nissan or toyota)pickup., thanks Dave.
oh when i said the engine stopped when turned by hand like it hit something,i wasnt actually turning the crankshaft lol...i was just turning the outer half of the balancer and it was hitting on the inner half somehow, i just noticed it when i tried to turn it again by grabbing the belt,the crankshaft didnt turn but only the outer ring of the balancer did,that the serpetine belt drives off of.oh when i said the engine stopped when turned by hand like it hit something,i wasnt actually turning the crankshaft lol...i was just turning the outer half of the balancer and it was hitting on the inner half somehow, i just noticed it when i tried to turn it again by grabbing the belt,the crankshaft didnt turn but only the outer ring of the balancer did,that the serpetine belt drives off of.
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sounds like an ignition switch glitch or ignition harness problem can be either depending on the amount of wear and tear with turning on and off of the ignition tumbler or possible chafing or inconsistent short in harness to ignition switch check the ground line up through harness first and check the wiring harness condition
HI,I would perform a cooling system pressure test to check for leaks.Be sure to test the radiator cap.A radiator cap can let your car boil over before it overheats,causing it to overheat.If you don't have a cooling system pressure tester,Autozone rents then,just pay for it,use it and return it for your money back.Hope this helps.Let me know what you find.Any more questions just ask and i'll try to help.Thank You for using fixya.....iluv2fish......Ray....
If you havent replaced the battery I would start there. If the battery has a dead cell in it then it will effectively remove the charge that your alternator is putting out causing your vehicle to stop running because it has no power. I would jump start the car without the battery hook up and remove the cables and see if it runs that way. If it does you have a bad battery.
when you say car lost power bought a new battery.sound like alternator not charging battery.with car running your voltage at battery should be 13.5 volts or 14.5 volts it not alternators need replacing.have garage replace alternator if faulty because 1993 to 1994 cars if you disconnect battery car would lose memory causing car not to idle.the car will stall out at a stop light or stop sign whole lot.it would relearn itself but the stalling out dangerous around a lot of traffic.
Try replacing the throttle position sensor. I had the same problem in my truck. It would start and run for a bit but as soon as you let off of the pedal, it would die. Try it and see if it works.
Check your emergency brake to see if it is released all the way. 1or2 clicks on the brake will make the auto lihgts not come on. Try turning the blower motor on and then tapping on it...makes mine work.
96 Plym. Gr. Voyager (same as Dodge) 4speed A/T can't locate neutral safety switch on drivers side front of trans. My book shows different location/picture (Haynes manual). Any ideas where to get picture/diagram for reference? Initial problem van starts normally but often only clicks when key is cycled through start cycle until it finally starts. Battery good (3 yrs and checked good), replaced ign. switch behind key tumbler assembly(NAPA Echlin part), relay at fuse block in engine area a checks OK with VOM meter, next item is neutral safety switch that also runs backup lights. I've opened area by removing air filter assembly for better view from top or under car but my switches are not in same location as Haynes book shows. Van has towing package and lockup torque convertor if that makes difference. Need source for diagram of trans exterior. Tha nks to all you helpful souls!
it only makes the noise at idle,if u rev a little it sounds fine but as soon as it idles back down the noise starts again?
ok this is weird..if the serpentine belt is on it makes the noise constantly at idle only,but if u remove the belt it doesnt make it atall at idle but if u rev it quickly it makes it just for a second,
oh and if u try to turn the engine over by hand it stops at a certain point like its hitting something,than if u turn it the other way it almost makes a complete revolution than stops again?...but it starts and runs ok except for the noise i mentioned,,what could this be..i'm puzzled?
ok nevermind lol..i figured it out,i had a seperated harmonic balancer(rubber to steel bond was broken),i'll replace the balancer now...thanks anyways Dave
ty for your input catvaman,but it was a seperated harmonic balancer,i picked up a used one from the wreckers($65.00)and replaced it myself,its fine now,but yea your theory makes sense,i hope i can get another year from the old van, i'm looking for a small 4x4 next(nissan or toyota)pickup., thanks Dave.
oh when i said the engine stopped when turned by hand like it hit something,i wasnt actually turning the crankshaft lol...i was just turning the outer half of the balancer and it was hitting on the inner half somehow, i just noticed it when i tried to turn it again by grabbing the belt,the crankshaft didnt turn but only the outer ring of the balancer did,that the serpetine belt drives off of.
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