At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Inherited vehicle that was barely driven for a year or longer w orange service engine light illuminated. Used Sta-Bil w full tank of premium fuel and replaced gas cap, along w maintenance LOF + new air filter as general maintenance. Use 89 octane fuel regularly.
Only symptom is strong vacuum pressure removing gas cap and occasional gas odor inside car. New gas cap seems to have eliminated odor - wife's car. Battery disconnect reset did not eliminate service light.
Vehicle has only 74,000 miles and runs perfectly. Engine compartment looks like a new car.
Repairing myself, but do not know where to begin, as it seems the problem can be any one of many. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Try drive the car for 100 mile or hour and half for the computer to clear out new car are much different they hold the information and disconnecting the batt will not help until the code is clear out
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The damage is already done. Gasoline breaks down within 1 year. Drain and flush the old fuel out of the gas tank(s). Try adding Chevron Techron fuel injection cleaner to the replacement gas. That may work. However, you probably need to remove all the fuel injectors [if it's a fuel injected engine] and have them sent out to be professionally [ultrasonic] cleaned and tested. Fords are notorious for fuel injector problems. Also do a fuel system pressure test, as the bad gas may have damaged the electric fuel pump [located in the fuel tank(s). For a carbureted engine, you will need to have the carburetor overhauled or replaced with a rebuilt unit. NEVER let a vehicle sit unused for more than 6 months without first treating the gasoline. I always add a fuel stabilization product like Sta-Bil to the fuel, if the engine will not be run for at least 2 months or more. Adding these products after the fuel has gone bad [is already old] will not help. Then it's to late. Below is a link for Sta-Bil. I've used this product for over 20 years. It will save a LOT of grief, when storing vehicles or gas powered lawn equipment. See
The Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to Do
The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers. If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.
The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on. If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.
The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems. This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.
The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving. Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important
and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some
testimonial comment about this answer.
The Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to Do:
The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers. If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.
The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on. If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.
The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems. This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.
The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving. Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.
I suggest scanned the PCM to know exactly what fault code is stored there.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your
feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if
you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
P0452 - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input. An excessively low voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.
The EVAP control system pressure sensor detects pressure in the purge
line. The sensor output voltage to the ECM increases as pressure
increases. The EVAP control system pressure sensor is not used to
control the engine system. It is used only for on board diagnosis.
Symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
Possible causes - The EVAP control system pressure sensor circuit is open or shorted - EVAP control system pressure sensor may be faulty
Possible solution - Retight gas cap - Replaced EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor
It means your vehicle's computer has determined that a component or system in your emission control system is not working properly.
When the light comes on, one or more diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are stored in the engine control module. These DTCs remain even if the light goes out. To address a Check Engine Light problem, the DTCs are retrieved and the appropriate troubleshooting information is followed in order to determine the problem.
Every vehicle manufactured in the U.S. has to first pass an Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) test called the Federal Test Procedure. This sets the acceptable limits of wear and/or failure for the emission control system-i.e., what conditions will ultimately cause a Check Engine Light to illuminate. These standards are closely regulated. If the emission control system is faulty and the vehicle is polluting the air, the Check Engine Light illuminates to alert the driver of this condition. (Note: A vehicle in this condition would fail an emissions inspection or smog check.)
Don't confuse the Check Engine Light with the maintenance or service light. These lights illuminate when a routine service is due. They are usually triggered by mileage, gallons of gasoline consumed, or some other type of vehicle-use measurement.
The warning light has two states. A blinking light indicates a critical
problem with gaseous emissions from the engine that is likely to cause
permenant damage to the engine, exhaust sytem or catalytic converter. A
blinking light must be remedied immediately, and the car should not be
driven in this state, at the risk of causing serious and permenant
damage to the engine, exhaust and/or catalytic converter. Repairing or
replacing these parts can be extremely expensive. A reputable garage or
a Vauxall/Opel garage should be able to diagnose and repair the
problem.
A solid (unblinking) light indicates a non-critical
fault in the emmisions exhaust system. Many faults are covered by this
light including failures in emssions sensors, temperature sensors and a
variety of other parts. This usually results in a higher than average
amount of environmentally harmful pollutants being expelled from the
car, loss of power and/or gradual damage to the engine, exhaust and
catalytic converter. While the car can still be driven with a
non-critical emmisions problem, it is highly recommended that the fault
is diagnosed and repaired at a reputable garage or Vauxhall/Opel
garage.
gasoline will go bad! if you plan to store your vehicle use something like "STA-BIL" to prevent this. you may need to remove the gas that is in it and replace it with some that is fresher.
info on sta-bil: http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx
×