How to remove locked wheel hubs 1989 Bentley Turbo

For Trackers (and Sidekicks) of this era (1989 to 1998) the front axle locking device is a locking hub on each front wheel. (There are no actuators until the model change in 1999.) Locking hubs come in two flavors, Manual and auto locking hubs. A look at the from wheel should tell you what you have. Manual hubs have a knob like lever with the word "lock" and "free." Auto hubs say "Auto-Locking" right on them. Both types of hubs require servicing periodicity. (Normally annually.) This means removing and disassembling. Then cleaning and light greasing before reassembling. There are some good videos on the web on how to service the manual hubs. Auto hubs are a little harder to ensure they are working properly, but some people like them. (Not me.)

Please note two things:
1. Due to differential action, BOTH hubs need to be locked for any power to be applied to the front wheels.
2. Trackers of this era are PART TIME 4x4, NOT all wheel drive. They have nothing providing for different wheel speeds front to back like a center differential. This means they should NOT be used on non-slippery surfaces like dry pavement. Beside causing handling and braking issues, it can destroy your transfercase driving on dry pavement in 4x4 due to what is called "driveline wind up".

PLEASE if you do not understand this, look it up... if you still do not understand, ask and do not use the 4x4 until you do.

It may be necessary to remove the hubs and clean out any dried grease that is preventing the actuation of the hub locks. Remember that it may be only one hub that is causing the problem so ensure that you have turned the dial until you hear it click in to place.

Warn Hubs Installation
A truck or SUV with a four-wheel drive suspension uses locking hubs on the front wheels to engage or disengage the front axle shafts from the hubs. This way, you can drive the truck normally with just rear-wheel drive, or engage four-wheel drive mode when you want to drive off-road. These hubs can wear out, and one improvement is to install a set of Warn hubs. Installing a set of Warn hubs takes about an hour.
1.Park the truck and put on the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck with the jack and put the jack stands under the front axle. Take off the front wheels with the tire iron and put them to the side.
2.Disengage the locking hubs using your hands by turning the knob on the hubs. Remove the snap rings holding the hub locks in place with the snap-ring pliers. Pull the hub off the axle.
3.Install the lock ring wheel from the Warn hub kit in the axle with the factory snap ring and the snap-ring pliers.
4.Make sure the Warn locking cap dial is turned to the "Free' position. Install the locking cap onto the lock ring wheel and hub body with a hex-head key. Reinstall the front wheels with the tire iron and lower the vehicle off the jack stands with the jack.
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Reymond

i assume this is the front wheel... you will need to remove the wheel hub completly. to do this will need to remove thhe manual or auto locking hub, these are normally either a 10mm bolt for manual hubs and an 8mm alen key for the auto's. behind that is a circlip on the axle that holds a locking ring. remove the circlip and the snout type lock ring. then will need to remove the wheel bearing lock ring, normally 2 philips screws into the bearing adjuster. then will be able to undo the wheel bearing adjuster all the way off the shaft and the hub and disc should pull off. remove the disc and then can access the wheel stud.
reccommend check out the wheel bearings while off. ensure has heeps of clean grease, refit the hub with the disc and tighten adjuster tight. then loosten it and wind in again until it just stops turning easily, this is as the adjuster starts pushing on the bearings, this is setting the freeplay of the bearings, then refit locking hub and brake caliper

Try select 4wd and reverse about 50 feet then select normal and drive forward..this sometimes free up the hubs.

Automatic Locking Hub

1. Shift transfer lever to the ``2H'' position, then move vehicle forward and rearward approximately three feet.
2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Disconnect brake hose from caliper.
4. Remove caliper locking bolt.
5. Rotate pad assembly upward then remove pad retaining clip and caliper assembly
6. Remove brake pad support bracket.
7. Remove hub cap retaining bolts, then the hub cap, Fig. 15.
8. Remove housing assembly, snap ring and shims.
9. Remove drive clutch assembly, inner cam and lock washer.
10. Using tool J-36827 or equivalent, remove hub nut.
11. Remove hub and disc assembly.Manual Locking Hub
    
    
    1. Shift transfer lever to the ``2H'' position and set free wheeling hub into Free position.
    2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assemblies.
    3. Disconnect brake hose from caliper.
    4. Remove caliper locking bolt.
    5. Rotate pad assembly upward then remove pad retaining clip and caliper assembly
    6. Remove brake pad support bracket.
    7. Remove housing assembly retaining bolts then the housing assembly Fig. 16.
    8. Remove snap ring and shims.
    9. Remove body assembly and lock washer.
    10. Using tool J-36827 or equivalent, remove hub nut.
    11. Remove hub and disc assembly

are the hubs manual or auto if the hubs are manual look at the center of the front wheels there is a little switch in the center should say lock one way and un lock the other just twist switch to lock on both wheels then pull leaver in the truck to 4hi or low and away you go just remember to unlock the hubs when you are in 2 wheel drive

Check the automatic locking hub on the right side. BEWARE: You MUST have the appropriate special service tools for this job!!!!!

The vehicle will not engage in 4WD operation when the vehicle is off the ground, as the automatic locking front hubs require front wheel load to engage. When the hubs DO lock, it is normal to hear 2 to 3 soft clicks. Anything after that indicates a problem.

If memory serves, there is a cam bushing behind the plate that will wear out, and if the plate is worn out, the hub clicks and will not engage.

With Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
5. Remove the axle shaft spacer
6. Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
11. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut. WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.
12. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
13. Install the axle shaft spacer.
14. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
15. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).
17. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm (0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in lb).
18. 
    

I have had a similar problem on my 82 Jimmy when I wanted to replace my 6 lugs (bolts) on the wheel. I guess, you have to remove the hubs to bring out the rotors. I myself searched on the net for a detailed pic, but did not succeed. I however saw my mechanic do it on mine. You need to carefully remove the pins, sleeves, springs etc. in the hub. Some clippings / locks / pins might seem hard to take out, but little inspection would make it easier. Some special tools such as a pointed tip plier might be required to release certain pins.

Anyway, best of luck :-)


By the way, I am having problems with my 4X4 lately. I got the lugs changed and the mechanic seems to have mis installed the hubs. Now I sometimes have a grinding sound underneath, a couple of times (even when 2 wheeling and hubs released), Today the wheels did not lock and I could not get out of sand. To my embarrassment, a land cruiser had to pull me out. Can some one help ?