1989 4X4 SUBURBAN FRONT ROTORS

It depends. For a regular 1/2 ton and most 3/4 tons no, just remove the caliper and the rotor comes off over the wheel bearing hub. 1 ton suburbans, require more work, you will require a large socket to remove the axle nut, and a slide hammer or 3 jaw puller big enough to pull off the rotor and wheel bearing as an assembly. The rotor on some 3/4 tons and all 1 tons bolt from behind thru the wheel bearing and need to be removed together. The wheel bearing has to be unbolted from the spindle, then the wheel studs have to be punched thru to remove the rotor. The splines on the wheel studs hold the rotor to the wheel bearing. 1 ton will say 3500 on the side, 2500 for 3/4 ton and 1500 for 1/2 tons.

Hello i would check your wheel bearings or sometimes called bearing hub .Jack car up prop the car with axle stands now remove your tires and rotors once removed wiggle you bearing hub left to the right your bearing hub should have minimal play one side to the other is obvious the looser play hub will be your noise you have been experiencing.most people call this road noise.

bolts are behind the steering knuckle to remove the bearing and hub assy.

Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual




Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal

1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.
   
   Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
   

1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
   

Front (4 Wheel Drive) To Remove:

1. Raise and support the vehicle
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Tire and wheel assembly
   • Rotor (See: Disc Brake Rotor)
   • Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle
   • Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor
   • Front drive halfshaft assembly (See: Halfshaft)
   • Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts 4WD front hub
     
     
   • Hub and bearing assembly

To Install:

1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing assembly
2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent
3. Install or connect the following:
   • Hub and bearing assembly
   • Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts and tighten the hub to knuckle bolts; Torque to: 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm)
   • Front drive halfshaft assembly (See: Halfshaft)
   • Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor
   • Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle and tighten the bolt; Torque to: 106 inch. lbs. (12 Nm)
   • Rotor (See: Disc Brake Rotor
   • Tire and wheel assembly
   Wheel lug nut tightening sequence
   
   
4. Torque the lug nuts to specification
5. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

Front hub bearing, remove tire, remove caliper and caliper holding bracket, you do not have to remove brake caliper from brake hose, just set it aside, if 4X4 remove front axle nut that goes through center of rotor, also remove brake rotor, disconnect elec, A.B.S connector, remove three bolts on back side of hub bearing, remove hub bearing, some times you will need to knock hub bearing out with a hammer.Reverse to install new hub bearing.

road wheel off, brake caliper removed from rotor disc, remove cap in middle of rotor exposing the bearing retaining nut, remove split pin that holds the nut from turning and wind off the large nut, once nut is removed you can remove the rotor and bearings, the rear roller bearing at the rear of the rotor may need to be levered off with a screwdriver, should come off easy, replace in reverse order

No, but I would replace the rotors. Turning them usually winds up getting them warped as soon as they heat up and/or you hit a puddle of water..also, you will need a torque wrench and standard automotive tools, Jack and stands and a vice..

1 Place the Transfer shift in the 2H position.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.
2 Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3 Loosen the hub to rotor retainer bolts.
4 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line. 5 Secure the caliper out of the way with the flexible line still connected.

Once the hub/rotor is removed from the vehicle the wheel bearings may be cleaned and repacked or the bearings and races may be replaced. For more information, please refer to the wheel bearing procedures in General Information & Maintenance of this manual.

6 Remove the hub nut using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent.
7 Remove the hub cap assembly retainer bolts.
8 Remove the spindle nut, washers, and other components. Remove the hub/rotor, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub/rotor is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward.
9 Once the hub/rotor is removed, remove the retainer bolts securing the rotor and hub together. Inspect the hub and replace if needed.

To install:
1 With the rotor secured in a vise, attach the wheel hub to the rotor using the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-58 ft. lbs. (61-75 Nm). Apply 2.12 oz. (60 gm) of grease to the hub before installing.
2 Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor over the spindle.
3 Install the bearings washers and other components. 4 Position the lock washer so the hub cap assembly bolt holes line up properly.
5 Install the spindle washer and nut and secure using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent. Preload the bearing to 3.31 lbs. (1.5 kg).
6 Install the inner cam and any shims. Install the hub cap assembly and secure in place with retainer bolts. 7 Tighten grade M8 bolts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (22-29 Nm), tighten grade M10 bolts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (52-61 Nm).
8 Install the brake caliper.
9 Install the tire and wheel assembly.
10 Remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.

It is possible but i do reccomend changing the bearing races in the hub when you do it to prevent any premature wear on your new bearings. A new hub/rotor assembly will come with new races installed if that makes it any easier.

Knock the wheel studs through the assy.