The most common problem with those is the transducer. It's recommended to replace the solenoid and transducer together. If you don't have experience with transmission work, then I would have a local shop do it. If the shop seems unsure of your request, I would try another shop. Any technician with experience will know what to do. The parts are available at the dealer and/or local parts store like Advance or Napa for under $100 and the labor with new filter and fluid should land you in the $150-300 range
If there is no power going to the sensor, it could be a wiring or computer issue, the computer could be sending an actual problem or the sensor could be faulty and therefore disabled. Try unplugging your battery for about 15 minutes and then trying again, this will clear the computers codes. If that works however, you probably will need to replace the sensor as the issue will most likely return.
Get rid of it.
SOURCE: 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with fulltime 4wd and only turns rear!
You know for a fact no power is being sent to the front axle? This transfer case only sends power to the front axle when the rear axle is slipping. Are there any unusual noises in the front axle?
If it is the transfer case, replacing it is not too big of a deal. If you are the least bit confident of your abilities, then you can do it yourself. I believe you have the NP242 transfer case, but I could be wrong. There will be a tag on the back side of the case, facing the rear axle, to the left of the drive shaft. On that tag, it will tell you which case you have. You can either have yours rebuilt, or buy a replacement either new or used.
To remove the t-case, first drain the fluid. Next remove the front driveshaft by removing the four bolts holding the u-joint in place. Then remove the rear drive shaft by doing the same as the front driveshaft, only this time it's at the rear differential. Once the drive shaft is free, support the full weight of the driveshaft, not that heavy, and pull it out of the t-case and set aside. Disconnect the shifter linkage and wiring harness. Next, remove the bolts that connect the t-case to the t-case cross member. Lift slightly and support the tranny/t-case assembly and remove the cross member. The t-case isn't very heavy, but you don't want it falling on your head, so remember to support it as you remove the bolts that connect it to the rear of the tranny. Once you bring it out from under the Jeep, and it's rebuilt or you have another unit to replace it, installation is the reverse of removal. Just remember to refill the t-case with the proper fluid.
SOURCE: 1995 jeep grand cherokee auto trans prob
sounds like the transmission is in "limp"mode it allows you to drive even though there is a problem with the transmission,the code 21 is probably a transmission manufature control code and not engine go to autozone and they can scan it for free,if you just had transmission fluid changed recently if you used anything other than what the manufature calls for like atf+4 then this is your problem,flush the system and do a fluid and filter change with correct fluid as by what the owners manual,or dealer calls for,don't rely on autozone to get it right.
SOURCE: TRANSMISSION
sounds like either a bad speed sensor or controller. shift points are too high, should be at 2000 or slightly less. if fluid is good and clean and shifts do not flair, check those control units. Not sure about calibrate...could mean out of calibration...Id ask
another tech about that. (i don't know everything!)
SOURCE: cruise control quit working.
there are a few things that can inhibit the cruise control on a jeep, and the more prevalent one is a vacuum leak in that circuit (hose) that runs off the intake manifold (rearmost one with the check valve in it), which then jogs over to the passenger side of the vehicle, and takes a dive down under the battery tray to the vacuum reservoir. if you are creative about making a plug after pulling the hose off the intake manifold, and then disconnect the tiny hose from the cruise control actuator, also on the passenger side of the engine compartment, and then pull vacuum either with your mouth or a small vacuum pump, then you've proven that this is not the reason the system is not working. Also, if your valve cover rearmost vacuum line to the intake manifold is 'leaky', it will cause this as well as other issues, such as defroster or air conditioning not to blow thru the air vents into the crew cabin, but only onto the windshield defroster vents. if this turns out not to be the problem, and the hose and valve cover fitting are in good shape (the center section of this is plastic and brittle and subject to cracking and breaking, by the way!), it's a good time to start to suspect the brake pedal switch. this switch has contacts that do more than just allow the brake lights to come on, there are cruise control 'inhibit' contacts in this switch as well. and yes, these do tend to go bad. in any case, if the instrument cluster blue light never comes on, it suggests that the system has more than vacuum problems and this brake pedal switch is most likely the cause if there is no other known electrical problem, such as an open circuit for the cruise control. I wish I could offer more, but the liklihood of the actuator being the root cause of this failure, is pretty slim, and there is not much else for you to play with, though there is probably an Engine Control Module possibility here, as a group of five or six Cruise Control wires actually go into that box. In any case, do the vacuum hose and vacuum checks first, then start to think about the 30 dollar switch on the brake pedal.
SOURCE: 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Shifting Problems
Check the Trans fluid level with it running and at operating temperature. Jeep NAG1 transmissions are known to have the input electric seal leak trans fluid. Not an exspensive fix add Mopar ATF4 and then relace the guild seal.
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